Annapurna Circuit Trek — Self-Launched Independently

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport, take a prepaid taxi to Thamel (~800–1,000 NPR / £5–6). Check into a budget guesthouse in Thamel or Paknajang. Spend the afternoon walking the old town: Durbar Square (foreigner entry ~1,000 NPR), Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) for sunset. In the evening, sort logistics — buy a Ncell/Namaste SIM with data (~£5 for 30 days), pick up a map, and confirm your bus ticket to Besisahar for tomorrow. If you want a porter-guide, guesthouses and Thamel agencies can arrange one same-day for ~£15–20/day.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (e.g. Hotel Kantipur Village or similar, ~£12 dorm/private twin)

• →Thamel orientation walk
• →Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
• →Kathmandu Durbar Square
• →Buy SIM card & arrange bus ticket

Local buses to Besisahar leave from Machha Pokhari bus park (Gongabu) around 7am; the journey takes 6–7 hours on winding hill roads for roughly 700–900 NPR (~£5). Alternatively, book a shared jeep seat for a bit more comfort. In Besisahar (760m), buy your ACAP permit and TIMS card if you haven't already (ACAP ~3,000 NPR, TIMS ~2,000 NPR — around £30 total, cheaper than paying an agency). Overnight in a simple guesthouse and eat dal bhat before the trek begins.

🚌Local bus Kathmandu–Besisahar ~£5 (6–7 hrs)

🛏Simple guesthouse in Besisahar (~£8)

• →Buy ACAP permit & TIMS card
• →Evening walk along the Marsyangdi river

The road continues up the valley — take a shared/local jeep from Besisahar to Chame (2,710m), roughly 5–6 hours and around 1,200–1,500 NPR (~£8–10) per seat. This is the same stretch the group tours drive, just without a private vehicle. Chame is the district headquarters of Manang and has shops, ATMs and hot springs. Visit the small Chame Monastery in the afternoon and acclimatise gently.

🚌Shared jeep Besisahar–Chame ~£9 (5–6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Chame (~£8)

• →Chame Monastery
• →Chame hot springs (optional)

First proper trekking day: 5–6 hours through pine forest, past the huge cliff-side Paungda Danda rock face, to Pisang (3,300m). Follow the lower trail through Telekhu for a gentler, quieter route with better views of Annapurna II and IV. Check into a lodge in Upper or Lower Pisang; rooms are typically near-free if you eat dinner and breakfast there.

🚌On foot (5–6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse lodge in Pisang (~£7)

• →Trek Chame–Pisang
• →Paungda Danda viewpoint
• →Pisang village exploration

A short, high and spectacular day: 3–4 hours climbing to the plateau village of Ngawal (3,660m) via Ghyaru. The ridge path has some of the best panoramic Annapurna views on the whole circuit. Take it slow for altitude — this is your first night above 3,500m. Ngawal is quiet, traditional and a great place for a restful afternoon.

🚌On foot (3–4 hrs)

🛏Guesthouse in Ngawal (~£7)

• →Trek Pisang–Ngawal via Ghyaru ridge
• →Annapurna panorama viewpoint

A relaxed 3–4 hour descent to Manang (3,540m), passing the airstrip at Hongde and the yak pastures above the valley. Arrive by lunchtime, then walk down to Gangapurna Lake in the afternoon for close-up views of the glacier and Gangapurna's north face. Manang has bakeries, a small clinic and gear shops if you need anything.

🚌On foot (3–4 hrs)

🛏Lodge in Manang (~£8)

• →Trek Ngawal–Manang
• →Gangapurna Lake walk

Essential rest/acclimatisation day before the pass. Do a short acclimatisation hike — the classic is up to Chongkor viewpoint above the village (about 2 hrs up, ~4,500m views) or out to Choser View Point. Attend the free afternoon altitude talk run by the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang if it's running. Eat well, drink water, and get an early night.

🚌On foot

🛏Lodge in Manang (~£8)

• →Chongkor viewpoint acclimatisation hike
• →Choser View Point
• →HRA altitude briefing (free)

A short 3–4 hour day climbing gradually along the Jarsang Khola to Yak Kharka (4,050m). The scenery changes to dry, barren high-altitude terrain with blue sheep and the occasional herd of yaks. Keep the pace slow — the point is to gain altitude without stressing your body. Overnight in a basic lodge.

🚌On foot (3–4 hrs)

🛏Basic lodge in Yak Kharka (~£7)

• →Trek Manang–Yak Kharka
• →Wildlife spotting (blue sheep, yaks)

A 3–4 hour traverse across a landslide-prone slope to Thorong Phedi (4,450m), the base of the pass. Some trekkers push on to High Camp (4,800m) to shorten tomorrow, but Phedi is the more conservative and common choice. Eat an early, carb-heavy dinner and set your alarm — you'll want to start before dawn.

🚌On foot (3–4 hrs)

🛏Lodge at Thorong Phedi (~£8)

• →Trek Yak Kharka–Thorong Phedi

The big day. Leave around 4–5am with a headtorch and climb 2–3 hours to High Camp, then another 3–4 hours of slow switchbacks to Thorong La Pass (5,416m) — the highest point of the trek. Celebration photos, then a long 1,600m descent (4–5 hours) to Muktinath. If you feel unwell at any point above 4,500m, turn around; altitude sickness is the real risk here. In Muktinath, visit the sacred temple complex and the eternal flame if you have energy left.

🚌On foot (9–11 hrs, ~7–9 hrs on foot plus rest)

🛏Guesthouse in Muktinath (~£8)

• →Cross Thorong La Pass (5,416m)
• →Muktinath temple complex
• →Jwala Mai eternal flame

Take a local shared jeep or bus down the Kali Gandaki valley — stop at medieval Marpha for its whitewashed alleys, apple orchards and apple brandy tasting, then continue to Narchyang village. Instead of a commercial lodge, book a night in the Narchyang Community Homestay (bookable via Community Homestay Network or directly through your guesthouse) — it's a village-run initiative and the money goes straight to local families. Dinner is home-cooked with the host family.

🚌Local jeep/bus Muktinath–Marpha–Narchyang ~£6

🛏Narchyang Community Homestay (~£12 incl. dinner)

• →Marpha village & apple brandy tasting
• →Narchyang Community Homestay evening

A full day on foot in the community: hike up to Upper Narchyang (2,140m) for views down the valley, wander the terraced fields and village lanes with your host, and finish at the Narchyang hot springs for a soak. Your homestay can usually pack a lunch. This is the same day the group tour does — you're just doing it independently with the family who live there.

🚌On foot

🛏Narchyang Community Homestay (~£12 incl. breakfast & lunch)

• →Hike to Upper Narchyang (2,140m)
• →Narchyang village walk
• →Narchyang hot spring

Rejoin the ACAP trail with a climb through rhododendron and oak forest up to the Magar village of Sikha (1,980m). Views open up to Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. Around 5–6 hours of walking. Simple lodges, friendly families and cheap dal bhat.

🚌On foot (5–6 hrs)

🛏Lodge in Sikha (~£7)

• →Trek Narchyang–Sikha
• →Annapurna South & Hiunchuli views

A steady climb through dense rhododendron forest to Ghorepani (2,860m), one of the busiest junctions on the Annapurna trails — it's the Poon Hill hub. Roughly 5 hours. Arrive with time to warm up by the stove, eat, and go to bed early for tomorrow's pre-dawn start. Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) dominates the skyline from here.

🚌On foot (5 hrs)

🛏Lodge in Ghorepani (~£8)

• →Trek Sikha–Ghorepani
• →Machhapuchhre views

Set off around 4:30am with a headtorch for the 45–60 minute climb to Poon Hill (3,210m) — the classic Himalayan sunrise viewpoint with Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South and Fishtail all lined up. Buy your entry ticket at the gate (small fee, ~£2). After sunrise, descend back through Ghorepani for breakfast, then walk down through Deurali to the riverside village of Ramghai (Tadapani side trail). Long descent, so bring poles if you have them.

🚌On foot (6–7 hrs + Poon Hill)

🛏Riverside lodge in Ramghai (~£7)

• →Poon Hill sunrise (3,210m)
• →Trek Ghorepani–Ramghai

Final morning on the trail: a 3–4 hour descent through bamboo and farmland to Birethanti, where the ACAP checkpoint stamps you out. From Birethanti/Nayapul, catch a shared jeep or local bus down to Pokhara (~1–2 hrs, 300–500 NPR / £3). Check into a Lakeside guesthouse with a hot shower, then spend the evening at Phewa Lake — dinner at one of the Lakeside cafés and a well-earned beer.

🚌On foot + shared jeep/bus to Pokhara ~£3

🛏Lakeside budget hotel/guesthouse in Pokhara (~£12)

• →Hike Ramghai–Birethanti
• →Phewa Lake evening stroll

Options: a tourist-standard bus back to Kathmandu takes 7–8 hours (~1,200–1,800 NPR / £9), a night bus is similar, or a 25-minute flight is around £70–90 if you want to save a day. Consider a morning at the World Peace Pagoda or a paragliding tandem flight over Pokhara (book on GetYourGuide/Klook, ~£65) if you take a later transport. Arrive back in Kathmandu and return to a Thamel guesthouse.

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara–Kathmandu ~£9 (or flight ~£80)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (~£12)

• →World Peace Pagoda or paragliding (optional)
• →Evening in Thamel

Depending on your flight time, either head straight to the airport or book a 1-hour Everest scenic flight from Kathmandu (around £150–180 through a local agent, cheaper booked locally than online) — worth it if the skies are clear. Otherwise, hit the Thamel bakeries and pick up last-minute souvenirs before your flight home.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5

🛏—

• →Everest scenic flight (optional)
• →Souvenir shopping in Thamel