Annapurna Base Camp Trek: 8-Day Self-Launched Nepal Adventure

Book a tourist bus the day before (your guesthouse can arrange it, or go direct to the counter at Kantipath/Sorakhutte). Buses leave ~7am from the tourist bus park and take 7–8 hours along the Prithvi Highway, following the Trishuli and Marsyangdi rivers with views of Manaslu, Lamjung Himal, Dhaulagiri and eventually Machapuchare (Fishtail) as you approach Pokhara. Alternatively, fly Kathmandu–Pokhara (~£70–90) in 25 minutes if you want to save a day. On arrival, walk or take a taxi to Lakeside, find a guesthouse, and spend the afternoon on the Phewa Tal lakeshore. Use the evening to visit the ACAP permit office (Nepal Tourism Board office, Damside) — or sort it first thing tomorrow. Overnight: guesthouse in Lakeside.

🚌Tourist bus Kathmandu → Pokhara, ~£10–13, 7–8 hrs

🛏Guesthouse in Pokhara Lakeside (dorm or twin, ~£8–12)

• →Scenic drive along Prithvi Highway
• →Phewa Tal lakeside sunset
• →Arrange ACAP + TIMS permits in Pokhara

Get your ACAP permit (~£18 / NPR 3,000) and TIMS card (~£9 / NPR 1,500) first thing at the Nepal Tourism Board office, Damside — bring passport photos and cash. Then take a local bus or shared jeep from Pokhara's Baglung bus park to Nayapul (~1.5 hrs, ~£2–3), then another shared jeep or local bus up to Kimche (~1 hr, ~£3). From Kimche walk down to Sauli Bazaar and follow the trail through Chane to Ghandruk — roughly 3 hours of walking with great views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machapuchare. Ghandruk is a lovely Gurung village with a small museum; check in at a teahouse early and explore. Overnight: teahouse in Ghandruk.

🚌Local bus/jeep Pokhara → Nayapul (~£2.50) + shared jeep Nayapul → Kimche (~£3)

🛏Teahouse in Ghandruk (~£5–8 per night, twin)

• →Pick up ACAP permit & TIMS card
• →Trek Kimche → Sauli Bazaar → Chane → Ghandruk (~3 hrs)
• →Gurung village and museum in Ghandruk

A proper trekking day: 6–7 hours with plenty of ups and downs. Head down from Ghandruk along the Modi River side, cross the Kimrong Khola bridge, climb through Jhinu Danda, then the long stone staircase up to Chomrong (the last big village before the sanctuary). Cross the Chomrong Khola and climb again through bamboo, rhododendron and oak forest into the Annapurna Sanctuary approach to Sinuwa. Teahouses in Sinuwa are basic but comfortable with dal bhat on every menu — eat a big one, you've earned it. Overnight: teahouse in Sinuwa.

🚌On foot (no transport needed)

🛏Teahouse in Sinuwa (~£4–6 per night)

• →Trek Ghandruk → Jhinu Danda → Chomrong → Sinuwa (~6–7 hrs)
• →Cross Kimrong and Chomrong Khola bridges
• →Rhododendron and bamboo forest walking

Climb steadily to Khuldighar, then tackle the steep stone steps down to Dobhan and back up the other side. Pass the overhanging Hinku Cave, cross a long suspension bridge (good Machapuchare views), and continue through rhododendron and oak forest into the upper sanctuary to Deurali, at 3,230m. This is the day altitude starts to bite — walk slowly, drink 3–4 litres of water, skip alcohol, and get to bed early. Around 6–7 hours of walking. Overnight: teahouse in Deurali.

🚌On foot (no transport needed)

🛏Teahouse in Deurali (~£5–7 per night, colder — bring a warm sleeping bag)

• →Trek Sinuwa → Khuldighar → Dobhan → Deurali (~6–7 hrs)
• →Hinku Cave and suspension bridge
• →Altitude acclimatisation — slow pace, plenty of water

Leave early (7am) for the big one — the climb up through the sanctuary to Machapuchare Base Camp (3,720m), then the final 2 hours across open moraine to Annapurna Base Camp at 4,130m. The amphitheatre of peaks around you — Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Gangapurna, Annapurna III, Khangsar Kang and Machapuchare — is genuinely one of the great mountain views on the planet. Only 3–4 hours of walking but go slowly. Settle into a teahouse at ABC, catch the sunset on the peaks, and rug up: it's below freezing after dark. Overnight: teahouse at ABC.

🚌On foot (no transport needed)

🛏Teahouse at ABC (~£6–9 per night, basic and cold — sleeping bag essential)

• →Trek Deurali → Machapuchare Base Camp → Annapurna Base Camp (~3–4 hrs)
• →Sunset on Annapurna I, Gangapurna and Machapuchare from ABC

Catch sunrise on the Annapurna wall from ABC — worth the 5:30am alarm — then start the long descent. Retrace your steps down the Modi Khola valley, keeping an eye out for langur monkeys and danphe (Himalayan monal) in the forest. It's a big drop: 6–7 hours of mostly downhill to Bamboo Village at 2,345m. Knees and quads will know about it — trekking poles help enormously. Overnight: teahouse in Bamboo.

🚌On foot (no transport needed)

🛏Teahouse in Bamboo (~£4–6 per night)

• →Sunrise at ABC
• →Descend ABC → Modi Khola → Bamboo Village (~6–7 hrs)
• →Forest wildlife spotting

Another day of descending: back up through Sinuwa (yes, there's a climb), then down to Chomrong, and finally the long stone staircase down to Jhinu Danda. Drop your pack at a teahouse and walk 20 minutes down to the Modi River for a soak in the Jhinu hot springs — three natural rock pools right on the riverbank. This is the reward. Expect to share the pools with trekkers and locals; there's a small entry fee (~£2). Overnight: teahouse at Jhinu Danda.

🚌On foot (no transport needed)

🛏Teahouse at Jhinu Danda (~£5–7 per night)

• →Trek Bamboo → Sinuwa → Chomrong → Jhinu Danda (~6 hrs)
• →Soak in Jhinu Danda hot springs (~£2 entry)

Short final morning: cross the Modi River bridge, walk down through Syaula Bazaar and Birethanti, cross the Bhurungdi Khola, and reach the road at Nayapul by about 11am (~3–4 hrs walking). From Nayapul, catch a local bus or shared jeep back to Pokhara (~1.5 hrs, ~£3). Back in Lakeside by mid-afternoon — shower, celebrate with a cold Everest beer by the lake, and get a massage if you've got anything left in your budget. Overnight: guesthouse in Pokhara.

🚌Local bus/shared jeep Nayapul → Pokhara (~£3)

🛏Guesthouse in Pokhara Lakeside (~£8–12)

• →Trek Jhinu → Syaula Bazaar → Birethanti → Nayapul (~3–4 hrs)
• →Return to Pokhara and celebrate at Lakeside