Camino de Santiago Encompassed — Self-Launched Edition

Fly or train into Madrid and settle into a hostel or budget hotel in the Centro, La Latina or Malasaña area. Spend the evening acclimatising: wander the Plaza Mayor, grab a caña and tapas around Cava Baja, and pick up anything you still need for the walk (blister plasters, merino socks, a poncho). If you're flying in the day before your walk, sort your Credencial del Peregrino from the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago in Madrid (or order one online beforehand).

🚌Metro from MAD airport to the centre (~€5, or €3 by Cercanías train)

🛏Hostel dorm or budget hotel, central Madrid (~£25-45/night)

• →Wander Plaza Mayor and Gran Vía
• →Tapas crawl in La Latina
• →Buy Camino kit and Credencial if needed

A full free day in the Spanish capital. Choose your own highlights: the Prado and Reina Sofía are free in the early evenings (last two hours), the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral are worth the entry, and Retiro Park is perfect for a slow stroll. Self-launched travellers can also day-trip to Toledo (~35 min by Avant train, ~£11 each way) if the city museums don't appeal. Eat well — you'll be on trail food soon enough.

🚌Walking + metro day pass (~£8)

🛏Hostel dorm or budget hotel, central Madrid (~£25-45/night)

• →Prado or Reina Sofía museum
• →Retiro Park
• →Optional day trip to Toledo

Take the train from Madrid to Sarria (usually via Monforte de Lemos or Ourense; ~6-7.5 hrs, book ahead on renfe.com for ~£35-60). You can also split it with an overnight in Ourense. Settle into Sarria's old town, get your Credencial stamped at your albergue, and do a final gear check. This is where the walking starts tomorrow — Sarria is the classic starting point because it's the last point that qualifies for the 100km Compostela.

🚌Renfe regional train Madrid–Sarria (~£35-60, book in advance)

🛏Albergue or pensión in Sarria (~£15-25/night)

• →Explore Sarria old town
• →Get first Credencial stamp
• →Prep for the walk

Day one on the Camino Francés. The route climbs gently out of Sarria through oak woods and hamlets, crossing the medieval Puente Áspera and passing the 100km marker. The terrain is rolling, with plenty of cafés (and the famous Casa Barbadelo) for a mid-walk break. Arrive in Portomarín, a riverside town with the striking Romanesque church of San Nicolás moved stone-by-stone when the reservoir was built.

🚌Walking

🛏Albergue or private room in Portomarín (~£15-25/night)

• →Walk 22 km on the Camino Francés
• →Cross Puente Áspera
• →Visit San Nicolás church

An early start for the longest day of the walk. The trail runs through farmland and pine forest, over the Sierra de Ligonde, past the hamlet of Ventas de Narón and the Romanesque church at Vilar de Donas (a short detour). Palas de Rei is a proper little town with a castle-topped hill, plenty of bars and several albergues. Eat a proper pilgrim menu del día (usually £10-13 including wine).

🚌Walking

🛏Albergue or pensión in Palas de Rei (~£15-25/night)

• →Walk 25 km over the Sierra de Ligonde
• →Optional detour to Vilar de Donas church
• →Pilgrim menu dinner

A shorter, gentler day through the lush green valleys of Galicia. Cross the river at Furelos over a medieval bridge, then roll into Melide — famous for its pulperías (octopus restaurants). Sample pulpo á feira at Pulpería Ezequiel or A Garnacha, arguably the best on the entire Camino. Use the afternoon to rest your legs and check for blisters before the next stretch.

🚌Walking

🛏Albergue or pensión in Melide (~£15-25/night)

• →Walk 15 km through Galician valleys
• →Cross Furelos medieval bridge
• →Eat pulpo á feira in Melide

Another manageable day, following the Camino through eucalyptus and oak woodland, villages, and small streams, via the hamlet of Ribadiso do Baixo with its river swimming spot and albergue. Arzúa is known for its soft cheese (queso de Arzúa-Ulloa) and a handful of good bars on the main street. Only two walking days left — the trail merges with the Camino del Norte here, so expect more pilgrims.

🚌Walking

🛏Albergue or pensión in Arzúa (~£15-25/night)

• →Walk 14 km via Ribadiso
• →Try Arzúa-Ulloa cheese
• →Optional river swim at Ribadiso

The trail continues west through pretty woods and sleepy villages, crossing the Iso river and skirting Santiago airport. Some pilgrims push on through to O Pedrouzo (a further 3 km), which has more facilities. Amenal is quiet but strategically placed for a short, triumphant final day into Santiago. Fill your water bottles — services are sparser on this stretch.

🚌Walking

🛏Albergue or pensión in Amenal / O Pedrouzo (~£15-25/night)

• →Walk ~22 km through woodland and villages
• →Cross the río Iso
• →Early night before final day

The final push. Walk through the Monte do Gozo — where pilgrims traditionally get their first sight of the cathedral spires — and down into Santiago. Arrive at the Praza do Obradoiro, hug the statue of Saint James, and sit in front of the Cathedral to soak it all in. Then head to the Pilgrim's Office (Rúa das Carretas) to present your stamped Credencial and collect your Compostela certificate. Celebrate with a free evening in the old town — the seafood and Albariño are unmissable.

🚌Walking

🛏Hostel or pensión in Santiago old town (~£20-35/night)

• →Walk final 16 km via Monte do Gozo
• →Arrive at Praza do Obradoiro
• →Collect Compostela at the Pilgrim's Office
• →Celebratory dinner and Albariño

Depart at any time. If your flight isn't until later, spend the morning at the Cathedral's Pilgrim's Mass (12:00 daily, and 19:30 in summer), explore the Mercado de Abastos, or simply enjoy a slow breakfast in the old town. Santiago airport (SCQ) is a 30-minute bus ride away (~£3); alternatively, continue onwards by train to Porto, Madrid, or down to the coast at Finisterre.

🚌Bus or taxi to SCQ airport (~£3-20), or Renfe train onward

🛏N/A (onward travel)

• →Attend Pilgrim's Mass (optional)
• →Explore Mercado de Abastos
• →Onward travel to Porto, Madrid, or Finisterre