Self-Launched: 12 Days Romantic Southern India — Kochi to Chennai

Fly into Cochin International (COK). The cheapest, most local way into town is the airport bus to Aluva (~£1) then the metro to Ernakulam or a ferry across to Fort Kochi (₹10–₹30). Alternatively a pre-booked airport taxi is ~£10–12. Check into a Fort Kochi guesthouse near Princess Street. Spend the evening wandering the Chinese fishing nets, browsing the little art cafés, and catching the sunset from the waterfront. Book your backwater/Kumarakom bus for tomorrow morning at the guesthouse reception or on RedBus.

🚌Airport bus to Aluva (~£1) + metro/ferry to Fort Kochi (~£0.50); or taxi ~£11

🛏Fort Kochi guesthouse, private double (e.g. homestay near Princess St) — ~£15/night

• →Airport bus + ferry to Fort Kochi
• →Chinese fishing nets at sunset
• →Princess Street cafés

Self-guided walking day through the colonial quarter. Start at St. Francis' Church (where Vasco da Gama was originally buried), then Santa Cruz Basilica, the Dutch Cemetery and Mattancherry Palace (₹10 entry, closed Fridays). Cross to Jew Town for the spice shops and the Paradesi Synagogue. In the evening, book a front-row Kathakali performance with make-up demonstration at the Kerala Kathakali Centre (~£3–5, walk in or reserve online).

🚌On foot; local ferry Ernakulam–Fort Kochi if needed (~£0.15)

🛏Fort Kochi guesthouse — ~£15/night

• →St. Francis' Church
• →Santa Cruz Basilica
• →Dutch Cemetery
• →Mattancherry Palace (₹10)
• →Jew Town & spice shops
• →Kathakali performance with make-up demo (~£4)

Take a local KSRTC bus from Ernakulam to Kottayam (~2 hrs, £1) then a short bus/auto to Kumarakom (~£0.50). Afternoon by Vembanad Lake: the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is worth 1–2 hrs (₹50, best early morning or late afternoon), then walk the paddy field paths and spice trails around the village. You can also haggle a 1–2 hr shared shikara boat on the backwaters for ~£8–12 for the boat. Skip the pricey houseboat overnight tonight or save it for a splurge — a half-day village-canal shikara is far better value.

🚌KSRTC bus Ernakulam–Kottayam (~£1) + local bus/auto to Kumarakom (~£0.50)

🛏Kumarakom budget guesthouse or homestay — ~£14/night

• →KSRTC bus Kochi–Kottayam
• →Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary
• →Backwater shikara ride
• →Paddy field and spice trail walk

Bus to Kottayam then the winding ghat road to Kumily/Thekkady (~4 hrs total, ~£2.50). Check in, then take a gentle stroll to the Periyar Lake viewpoint. Book your Periyar boat safari for tomorrow directly at the KTDC/Periyar ticket counter (the early boats sell out — go the day before, ~£3–4). Evening spice-shop browsing in Kumily and a cheap Kerala thali dinner (~£2).

🚌Local buses Kumarakom–Kottayam–Kumily/Thekkady (~£2.50)

🛏Thekkady/Kumily budget guesthouse (treehouse or hill-view rooms available) — ~£15/night

• →Scenic ghat-road bus to Thekkady
• →Periyar Lake viewpoint
• →Book Periyar boat safari tickets
• →Kumily spice shops

Take the morning Periyar boat safari on the lake (~2 hrs, £3–4) — realistic wildlife is bison, sambar, elephants and plenty of birds rather than tigers. Alternatively join a guided jungle walk or bamboo rafting trip booked at the park counter (~£5–8). Afternoon visit to one of the working spice plantations (guided tour, ~£2–4) to see cardamom, pepper and vanilla growing. Easy evening: ayurvedic massage if you fancy it (~£10–15).

🚌Walk/auto within Thekkady (~£1)

🛏Thekkady/Kumily guesthouse — ~£15/night

• →Periyar Lake boat safari (~£4)
• →Optional bamboo rafting/jungle walk
• →Spice plantation tour (~£3)
• →Ayurvedic massage (optional)

Kerala Roadways/KSRTC bus over the hills from Kumily to Theni or directly to Madurai (~3.5–4 hrs, £2–3). Dump your bag at a guesthouse near the temple and head out for a food walk — Madurai is famous for jigarthanda (a cold almond drink), idli-appam at Murugan Idli Shop and cheap biryani. Evening: visit the Meenakshi Temple complex as the lights come on (free, phones must be left outside). Sari shopping around Puthu Mandapam if you'd like one for tomorrow (~£8–15).

🚌KSRTC/TNSTC bus Kumily–Madurai (~£2.50)

🛏Madurai guesthouse near the temple — ~£13/night

• →Hill bus to Madurai
• →Madurai street-food walk
• →Evening Meenakshi Temple visit
• →Sari shopping at Puthu Mandapam

Morning self-guided loop of Madurai: Meenakshi Amman Temple (free, no phone, modest dress), the thousand-pillar hall, then Tirumalai Nayakkar Mahal (₹50), Gandhi Memorial Museum (free, closed Fridays) and Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam tank. Koodalazhagar Temple is nearby if you want one more. Early afternoon train or bus to Trichy (~2 hrs; train £1–2). Evening climb Rock Fort if time allows or save it for morning.

🚌Local auto/tuk-tuk around Madurai (~£2) + train Madurai–Trichy (~£1.50)

🛏Trichy budget hotel near the bus stand/rock — ~£14/night

• →Meenakshi Amman Temple
• →Tirumalai Nayakkar Mahal (₹50)
• →Gandhi Memorial Museum
• →Vandiyur Teppakulam
• →Koodalazhagar Temple
• →Train to Trichy

Climb the 437 steps of Rock Fort Temple early (free, superb city view). Then local bus to Srirangam Island — the largest functioning temple complex in India, entered through a series of towering gopurams (free). Combine with Jambukeswarar Temple at Thiruvanaikaval (one of the five elemental Shiva temples) and St. Lourdes Church en route. Afternoon bus to Pondicherry (~4 hrs, £4–5) or a train to Villupuram plus a bus. Overnight in the White Town area.

🚌Local buses in Trichy (~£1) + state bus Trichy–Pondicherry (~£4.50)

🛏Pondicherry guesthouse in White Town or Heritage Quarter — ~£18/night

• →Rock Fort Temple climb
• →Srirangam Island temple complex
• →Jambukeswarar Temple, Thiruvanaikaval
• →St. Lourdes Church
• →Bus to Pondicherry

Slow, walkable day in Puducherry. Stroll Beach Road and the palm-lined promenade (it's vehicle-free in the evening), lose yourself in the yellow-and-white French Quarter streets, visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram (free, quiet), Manakula Vinayagar Temple (check out the temple elephant), Bharathi Park, the Gandhi statue and the Botanical Garden. Coffee and pastry in a French-era café, seafood dinner on the seafront (~£5–7).

🚌On foot / cycle hire (~£2)

🛏Pondicherry guesthouse — ~£18/night

• →Beach Road promenade
• →French Quarter walk
• →Sri Aurobindo Ashram
• →Manakula Vinayagar Temple & elephant
• →Bharathi Park & Botanical Garden
• →Gandhi statue

Early bus to Kanchipuram (~3 hrs, £2.50) — the city of a thousand temples. See Kamakshi Amman Temple, Ekambareswarar Temple (with its 3,500-year-old mango tree), Kailasanathar Temple (the oldest, most atmospheric) and Kanchi Kudil museum. Kanchipuram is also the silk-sari capital — a real handloom co-operative shop beats tourist markup. Then bus to Mahabalipuram (~2 hrs, £2). Evening by the Shore Temple at golden hour.

🚌Buses Pondicherry–Kanchipuram (~£2.50) + Kanchipuram–Mahabalipuram (~£2)

🛏Mahabalipuram beachside guesthouse — ~£16/night

• →Kanchipuram temple circuit (free)
• →Kamakshi Amman Temple
• →Ekambareswarar Temple
• →Kailasanathar Temple
• →Kanchi Kudil museum
• →Silk sari co-op shopping
• →Evening Shore Temple

Morning exploring the UNESCO-listed Pallava rock-cut monuments on foot: Shore Temple (₹40), Arjuna's Penance bas-relief (free to view), Krishna's Butterball, the Five Rathas (₹40) and Mahishasuramardini Cave. Cycle or walk the coastal paths — no tour needed. Late afternoon ECR bus or taxi to Chennai (~1.5 hrs, £1–2). Evening stroll on Marina Beach with sundal and ice cream from the carts.

🚌ECR bus Mahabalipuram–Chennai (~£1.50)

🛏Chennai budget hotel near Egmore or Marina — ~£18/night

• →Shore Temple (₹40)
• →Arjuna's Penance
• →Krishna's Butterball
• →Five Rathas (₹40)
• →Mahishasuramardini Cave
• →Bus to Chennai
• →Marina Beach evening walk

Self-guided Chennai loop using the suburban train and autos: Fort St. George and the Fort Museum (₹100 each), St. Mary's Church inside the fort, the red-brick Madras High Court, the Government Museum complex in Egmore (₹250 for foreigners, closed Fridays) and the Basilica of Santhome. Finish with breakfast at a traditional filter-coffee spot (Murugan Idli Shop or Saravana Bhavan, ~£2) before heading to Chennai International for your flight. Airport suburban train from Egmore/Tirusulam is ~£0.20; taxi ~£5–7.

🚌Local train/suburban rail (~£0.50) + airport transfer (~£2–7)

🛏None — departure day

• →Fort St. George & Fort Museum
• →St. Mary's Church
• →Madras High Court
• →Government Museum, Egmore
• →Basilica of Santhome
• →Filter coffee breakfast
• →Transfer to airport