Self-Launched Senegal & The Gambia: Wildlife, Rivers & Culture

Fly into Blaise Diagne International Airport (DSS) and make your way to the beach resort town of Saly, roughly 80km south of Dakar. Take the official airport shuttle or shared sept-place taxi to Mbour (~£8-10), then a local taxi to Saly (~£3). Check into your guesthouse, get oriented, and take an evening stroll along the Saly beach strip. Stock up on local SIM cards at the airport (Orange or Free Senegal, ~£5 for data).

🚌Shared sept-place taxi from DSS airport to Mbour (~£8), local taxi to Saly (~£3). Total ~£11.

🛏Le Saly Hotel or similar guesthouse in Saly (~£20-25/night)

• →Arrive at Blaise Diagne International Airport (DSS)
• →Take shared sept-place taxi from airport to Mbour (~£8), then local taxi to Saly (~£3)
• →Check in and explore Saly beach on foot
• →Pick up a local SIM card at the airport

Take an early sept-place taxi from Saly/Mbour to Dakar (~£4, 1.5hrs). Head to the Dakar ferry terminal on the Plateau and catch the public ferry to Gorée Island (return ticket ~£3). Spend the morning exploring this UNESCO World Heritage island on foot — visit the deeply moving Maison des Esclaves (Slave House, entry ~£2), the Le Castel fortification for panoramic views, and browse local art workshops. Have lunch at one of the small restaurants overlooking the bay. Ferry back to Dakar in the afternoon and check into your hotel.

🚌Sept-place taxi Saly to Dakar (~£4). Public ferry Dakar–Gorée Island return (~£3).

🛏Auberge Marie Therese or similar guesthouse near Dakar Plateau (~£20-25/night)

• →Sept-place taxi from Saly to Dakar (~£4, ~1.5hrs)
• →Public ferry to Gorée Island (return ~£3)
• →Self-guided walk of Gorée Island
• →Visit Maison des Esclaves (entry ~£2)
• →Climb to Le Castel fortification for panoramic views (free)
• →Browse local art workshops
• →Lunch at a bayside restaurant (~£6)

Take a sept-place taxi from Dakar's Pompiers gare routière north to Saint-Louis (~£8, ~3hrs). Check into your hotel in the historic island town. In the afternoon, hire a local calèche (horse-drawn carriage) driver for a town tour — negotiate directly at the main square, expect to pay ~£8-12 for a 1-2hr circuit crossing the iconic Faidherbe Bridge, past colonial architecture and the fishermen's Guet Ndar quarter. Dinner at a restaurant overlooking the Senegal River estuary.

🚌Sept-place taxi Dakar to Saint-Louis (~£8, ~3hrs).

🛏Hôtel de la Résidence or Sindone Hotel (budget room) in Saint-Louis (~£22-28/night)

• →Sept-place taxi from Dakar (Pompiers gare) to Saint-Louis (~£8, ~3hrs)
• →Check in and walk the historic UNESCO-listed island
• →Hire a local calèche for a guided town tour (~£10)
• →Walk across the Faidherbe Bridge
• →Explore the Guet Ndar fishing village on foot
• →Dinner at a riverside restaurant (~£8)

Rise early for a full day of birding. Arrange a shared minibus or taxi from Saint-Louis to Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary (~£10 return, ~45 min drive). Pay the park entry fee (~£8) and book a motorised pirogue boat trip directly at the park to glide among thousands of pelicans, flamingos and egrets (~£10-15pp if sharing). Return to Saint-Louis for a late lunch, then head south to Langue de Barbarie National Park for a late afternoon pirogue ride through the sandbar wetlands and bird colonies (~£8 if negotiated directly with a local boatman).

🚌Shared taxi Saint-Louis to Djoudj and back (~£10 total).

🛏Hôtel de la Résidence or Sindone Hotel (2nd night) in Saint-Louis (~£22-28/night)

• →Shared taxi to Djoudj National Park (~£10 return)
• →Djoudj park entry fee (~£8)
• →Motorised pirogue boat tour among pelicans and wading birds (~£12)
• →Late lunch back in Saint-Louis (~£7)
• →Afternoon pirogue trip through Langue de Barbarie (~£8)

Depart Saint-Louis by sept-place taxi south towards Touba (~£6, ~2hrs). Visit the Great Mosque of Touba, one of the largest mosques in sub-Saharan Africa — dress modestly and remove shoes; entry is free for respectful visitors. Continue by sept-place taxi to Kaolack (~£5, ~1.5hrs). Spend the late afternoon on a self-guided wander through Kaolack's vast, colourful central market — one of the largest in West Africa. Street food dinner in the market.

🚌Sept-place taxi Saint-Louis to Touba (~£6). Sept-place taxi Touba to Kaolack (~£5).

🛏Le Relais de Kaolack or similar budget hotel (~£20-25/night)

• →Sept-place taxi Saint-Louis to Touba (~£6, ~2hrs)
• →Visit the Great Mosque of Touba (free, dress code required)
• →Sept-place taxi Touba to Kaolack (~£5, ~1.5hrs)
• →Self-guided walk through Kaolack central market
• →Street food dinner in the market (~£5)

Cross the border into The Gambia. Take a sept-place taxi from Kaolack to the Gambian border at Farafenni (~£8, ~2hrs), cross on foot, then pick up a Gambian bush taxi towards Basse Santa Su, stopping off at Wassu to visit the mysterious Wassu Stone Circles (~£3 entry) — a UNESCO-listed megalithic site of ancient burial monuments. Continue to Janjanbureh (Georgetown) by bush taxi (~£5). Check into your camp accommodation and explore the small historic town on foot, including the old slave house ruins.

🚌Sept-place taxi Kaolack to Farafenni border (~£8). Bush taxis to Wassu and onward to Janjanbureh (~£9 total).

🛏Janjanbureh Camp or Laminkoto Camp (basic hut/camp, ~£15-20/night)

• →Sept-place taxi Kaolack to Farafenni border (~£8)
• →Border crossing on foot into The Gambia
• →Bush taxi to Wassu Stone Circles (~£4)
• →Visit Wassu Stone Circles (entry ~£3)
• →Bush taxi to Janjanbureh (~£5)
• →Self-guided walking tour of Janjanbureh (Georgetown)

The highlight of the trip. Book a seat on a local pirogue or, if your budget allows, charter a section of the Gambia River Excursions motorised boat from Janjanbureh heading west. This stretch of the Gambia River is spectacular — wide, mirror-calm, lined with mangroves and papyrus, alive with kingfishers, herons and hippos. Bring packed food from the camp market. At Kuntaur, stop for a shore excursion and walk through surrounding rice paddy fields. Arrange in advance via Janjanbureh Camp or local boat operators. Meals should be packed or bought from riverside villages.

🚌Local pirogue or motorised river boat from Janjanbureh towards Kuntaur (~£25pp shared).

🛏Riverside camp or basic guesthouse near Kuntaur (~£15-20/night). Alternatively, arrange to sleep on the boat if chartering.

• →Board a local pirogue or river boat from Janjanbureh heading west (~£20-30 for the day, shared)
• →Wildlife and birdwatching along the Gambia River
• →Shore excursion at Kuntaur — walk through rice paddies
• →Packed lunch on the river (buy provisions at Janjanbureh market the evening before)

Continue the river journey westward by pirogue or arrange a bush taxi from Kuntaur towards the coast, then south to Bintang Bolong creek. This remote, mangrove-fringed tributary is a birding paradise — African fish eagles, kingfishers, egrets and waders are abundant. Check into AbCa's Creek Lodge or a similar eco-lodge, where wildlife observation from the verandah begins immediately. Lunch and dinner at the lodge.

🚌Pirogue or bush taxi combination from Kuntaur to Bintang Bolong (~£18 estimated).

🛏AbCa's Creek Lodge or similar eco-lodge (~£25-35/night, meals often included)

• →River pirogue or bush taxi from Kuntaur towards Bintang Bolong (~£15-20)
• →Check into eco-lodge at Bintang Bolong
• →Wildlife and birdwatching from lodge verandah
• →Evening boat excursion on Bintang Bolong creek (arrange with lodge, ~£8)

A full day immersed in nature. Rise at dawn for a guided morning wildlife walk through rice terraces and surrounding villages — arrange this directly with your lodge (cost ~£8-12). After lunch, head out by boat with a local guide to explore the river basin, spotting dolphins, manatees (if lucky), and prolific birdlife. This is a slow-travel day — the kind money can't really replace. Meals at the lodge.

🚌No major transport — full day at lodge.

🛏AbCa's Creek Lodge (2nd night, ~£25-35/night)

• →Dawn wildlife walk through rice terraces and local village (arrange with lodge, ~£10)
• →Lunch at the lodge
• →Afternoon boat excursion exploring the Bintang Bolong river basin with local guide (~£10)
• →Evening wildlife watching from the lodge jetty

Head north by bush taxi towards Banjul, The Gambia's small, atmospheric capital (~£8, ~2hrs). Explore the city on foot: visit the impressive Arch 22 (entry ~£2) with its textile museum and views over the city, and the nearby National Museum charting The Gambia's history including the Jawara and Jammeh eras (entry ~£2). Watch a batik demonstration at one of the craft workshops near the market. Lunch at a beachfront restaurant on the Atlantic coast. Check into your hotel.

🚌Bush taxi Bintang Bolong to Banjul (~£8).

🛏Coco Ocean Resort budget room or Senegambia area guesthouse (~£25-30/night)

• →Bush taxi from Bintang Bolong to Banjul (~£8, ~2hrs)
• →Visit Arch 22 and its textile museum (entry ~£2)
• →Visit the National Museum of The Gambia (entry ~£2)
• →Watch a batik fabric demonstration at a local craft workshop (free or tip-based)
• →Lunch at a beachfront restaurant (~£7)

Cross back into Senegal by shared taxi north from Banjul to the Gambian border, then onward to Ndangane or Sokone on the edge of the Saloum Delta (~£12-15 total, ~3hrs with border crossing). Check into your hut or eco-lodge in the Delta. If timing works (around 5pm is ideal), book an immediate sunset boat excursion to watch egrets and herons returning to roost in the mangroves — arrange directly with your lodge or local fishermen (~£10-15pp).

🚌Shared taxi from Banjul to Saloum Delta area via Gambia-Senegal border (~£13 total).

🛏Keur Saloum or similar eco-lodge/hut (~£20-28/night)

• →Shared taxi Banjul to Senegambian border, then onward to Ndangane/Sokone (~£13, ~3hrs)
• →Check into lodge in the Saloum Delta
• →Optional: sunset pirogue excursion to watch birds returning to roost (~£12)

Spend the full day cruising the extraordinary Sine-Saloum Delta — a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of mangrove channels, shell islands and bolongs (saltwater creeks). Hire a local pirogue with a fisherman-guide directly from your lodge or from the village (~£15-25 for a full day shared between 2-4 people — negotiate the evening before). Pack lunch or ask your lodge for a picnic. Hundreds of species of birds, dolphins, and the surreal landscape of ancient shell mounds make this a truly unforgettable day. Change accommodation to Le Pélican or similar for the night.

🚌Pirogue hire for full-day Delta exploration (~£20pp).

🛏Le Pélican or similar lodge near Ndangane (~£20-28/night)

• →Full-day pirogue cruise through the Sine-Saloum Delta channels (~£20pp)
• →Birdwatching — pelicans, flamingos, kingfishers, herons
• →Visit ancient shell mound islands (bilingual local guides available)
• →Packed picnic lunch on the water

Head north by sept-place taxi to Joal-Fadiout (~£5, ~1hr). Fadiout is a remarkable island village built entirely on a mound of oyster shells, connected to the mainland by a wooden bridge. Join a local guide at the bridge entrance (~£5) for a walking tour through the shell-paved alleyways, visit the unique mixed-faith shell-mound cemetery, and climb to the giant baobab tree for views over the lagoon. Lunch in Joal, then sept-place taxi north to Saly (~£4) for your final night.

🚌Sept-place taxi to Joal-Fadiout (~£5) and return to Saly (~£4).

🛏Le Saly Hotel or similar guesthouse in Saly (~£20-25/night)

• →Sept-place taxi to Joal-Fadiout (~£5)
• →Guided walking tour of Fadiout Island with local guide (~£5)
• →Walk across the iconic wooden bridge to the shell-mound island
• →Visit the mixed Christian-Muslim shell cemetery
• →See the giant baobab tree
• →Lunch in Joal (~£6)
• →Sept-place taxi back to Saly (~£4)

Final morning in Saly. After breakfast, take a shared sept-place taxi from Mbour to Blaise Diagne International Airport (DSS) (~£10, ~1.5hrs). Allow at least 3 hours before your flight for the journey and check-in. If you have time before leaving, pick up last-minute souvenirs at Mbour market — batik fabrics, wooden carvings and woven baskets all make excellent affordable gifts.

🚌Shared sept-place taxi from Mbour/Saly to DSS airport (~£10, ~1.5hrs).

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Breakfast at guesthouse
• →Last-minute souvenir shopping at Mbour market
• →Sept-place taxi Mbour to Blaise Diagne Airport (~£10)
• →Depart from Dakar (DSS)