Self-Launched 12-Day Rajasthan: Delhi to the Thar Desert & the Taj

Land at IGI Airport and take the Airport Express Metro to New Delhi station (~£1.20) or a prepaid taxi (~£4–5) to your base in Paharganj or Karol Bagh. Settle in, pick up an Indian SIM/eSIM (Airtel or Jio tourist SIM ~£5), and pre-book your first train tickets on IRCTC (book 60+ days ahead for AC classes). Evening stroll and dinner in Paharganj — cheap thalis for £2–3.

🚌Airport Express Metro ~£1.20; prepaid taxi ~£5

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Paharganj/Karol Bagh (~£10–14/night)

• →Airport Express Metro to city
• →Buy tourist SIM/eSIM
• →Paharganj evening food walk

Do the classic Delhi day independently. Start early at Jama Masjid (£1 entry, shoe removal fee), walk the spice lanes of Chandni Chowk and take a cycle rickshaw (~£1.50). Visit Raj Ghat (free), drive-past Red Fort, then cross town to Humayun's Tomb (£5) and Qutub Minar (£5). Optional: book a small-group Old Delhi food walk on GetYourGuide (~£20–25) for the full spice-market experience. Use the Delhi Metro day pass (~£1.50) and autos for the final hops.

🚌Delhi Metro day pass ~£1.50 + autos ~£3

🛏Paharganj guesthouse (~£10–14)

• →Jama Masjid & Chandni Chowk
• →Cycle rickshaw in Old Delhi
• →Raj Ghat
• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Qutub Minar
• →Optional GetYourGuide Old Delhi food walk

Take the early-morning Mandore Express or a daytime train from Delhi to Jodhpur (AC Chair/Sleeper ~£8–12, roughly 10–11 hours) — book on IRCTC. Arrive late afternoon, check into a guesthouse in the old blue city near the clock tower. Evening wander Sadar Bazaar and the Clock Tower market and eat mirchi vada and makhaniya lassi.

🚌Train Delhi–Jodhpur AC class ~£10

🛏Heritage guesthouse in the old city (~£12–16)

• →Scenic train across Rajasthan
• →Clock Tower market & Sadar Bazaar

Walk up to Mehrangarh Fort (audio guide ticket ~£6) in the morning — the blue city views are best before 10am. Visit Jaswant Thada (£1.50), then Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park (£1) in the afternoon. Umaid Bhawan Palace museum (£1.50). On the way down, stop at a rooftop café for sunset over the fort. A local guide can be hired at the fort gate for ~£10 if you want history depth.

🚌Autos and walking ~£3

🛏Heritage guesthouse (~£12–16)

• →Mehrangarh Fort & audio guide
• →Jaswant Thada
• →Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
• →Umaid Bhawan Palace museum
• →Blue city rooftop sunset

Morning train or bus to Jaisalmer (train ~£4–6, 5 hrs; AC bus similar). Drop bags at a guesthouse inside or just outside the fort, then head out with a booked camel-safari operator for the afternoon/evening: camel ride on the Sam or Khuri dunes (~£15–25 including dinner, folk music and dance and a basic desert camp overnight). Many operators run this as a small group and can be booked direct or via GetYourGuide/Klook.

🚌Train Jodhpur–Jaisalmer ~£5; jeep transfer to dunes included in safari

🛏Standard desert camp near Sam/Khuri dunes (~£15–20, often bundled with safari)

• →Train to Jaisalmer
• →Camel ride on the Thar dunes
• →Desert camp dinner with Rajasthani folk dance

Back from the dunes by mid-morning. Check into a guesthouse in the fort or old town. Explore Jaisalmer Fort (living fort, free to enter; palace museum £3), Patwon-ki-Haveli (£1.50), Salim Singh-ki-Haveli (£1) and the small Thar Heritage Museum (£1.50). Sunset at Gadisar Lake with the havelis reflected in the water. Optional Silk Route Art Gallery and the Jain temples inside the fort.

🚌Walking + a couple of autos ~£2

🛏Fort-side guesthouse (~£10–14)

• →Jaisalmer Fort & palace museum
• →Patwon-ki-Haveli
• →Salim Singh-ki-Haveli
• →Thar Heritage Museum
• →Gadisar Lake sunset

Long transfer day: bus or shared jeep to Bikaner (~£5–8, 6–7 hrs) — trains are infrequent, so most independent travellers take the morning bus. Arrive afternoon and visit Junagarh Fort (£3) with its superb audio guide, then Lalgarh Palace museum (£1.50) and the beautiful Bhandasar Jain Temple (free/donation). Evening in the old walled city for Bikaneri bhujia and kachori snacks.

🚌AC bus Jaisalmer–Bikaner ~£7

🛏Budget hotel near the old city (~£10–13)

• →Bus to Bikaner
• →Junagarh Fort
• →Lalgarh Palace
• →Bhandasar Jain Temple

Take a morning bus towards Nawalgarh/Dundlod and hop off at Mandawa (~£4–6, 4–5 hrs). Mandawa is a small painted-haveli town — you can walk the whole thing: Mandawa Haveli, Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli, Chokhani and Saraf havelis, all with frescoed facades. Entry fees are tiny (£1–2 each) or free with a tip. Stay in a heritage haveli guesthouse for the full Shekhawati feel.

🚌Bus Bikaner–Mandawa ~£5; walking locally

🛏Heritage haveli guesthouse (~£14–18)

• →Bus to Mandawa
• →Painted havelis of Mandawa
• →Shekhawati fresco walk

Morning excursion to nearby Nawalgarh (shared jeep/auto ~£3) for the Morarka Haveli, Podar Haveli, Sheesh Mahal and Nawalgarh Fort. Then catch an afternoon bus to Jaipur (~£5–7, 4 hrs) or continue by shared taxi. Arrive Jaipur evening, check into a hostel or guesthouse near Hawa Mahal, and grab a late dinner at a thali spot in the old city.

🚌Shared jeep to Nawalgarh ~£3; bus Nawalgarh–Jaipur ~£6

🛏Hostel/guesthouse near Hawa Mahal (~£12–16)

• →Morarka Haveli
• →Podar Haveli & Sheesh Mahal
• →Nawalgarh Fort
• →Evening bus to Jaipur

Get to Amber Fort early (before 9am to beat crowds); entrance £5.50 and skip the elephant ride in favour of the jeep/walk up. Combine-ticket option covers Amber, Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, Nahargarh and Albert Hall (~£6–8). Afternoon: City Palace (£5), Jantar Mantar (£2), drive-past Jal Mahal, and Birla Temple at dusk. If time allows, sunset from Nahargarh Fort for the best view over the Pink City. Book a half-day GetYourGuide walking/food tour of the old city (~£15–20) if you want the bazaar and lassi deep dive.

🚌Auto to Amber ~£3, then city autos ~£5

🛏Hostel/guesthouse (~£12–16)

• →Amber Fort
• →City Palace
• →Jantar Mantar
• →Hawa Mahal
• →Jal Mahal viewpoint
• →Birla Temple
• →Nahargarh Fort sunset (optional)

Train or bus to Fatehpur Sikri (train ~£2–4, bus ~£4), spend 2–3 hours at the abandoned Mughal capital (£5 entry) — Tomb of Salim Chisti, Buland Darwaza, Diwan-e-Khas and Panch Mahal. Then a local bus or shared taxi onward to Agra (~£2, 2 hrs). Evening at Mehtab Bagh for the sunset view of the Taj across the Yamuna (£5).

🚌Train/bus to Fatehpur Sikri ~£3; bus to Agra ~£2

🛏Budget hotel in Taj Ganj (~£10–14)

• →Fatehpur Sikri complex
• →Buland Darwaza & Panch Mahal
• →Bus to Agra
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset Taj view

Pre-book your Taj Mahal e-ticket online (£6, plus £1.50 for the mausoleum) and be at the East Gate by 5.45am for sunrise — the quietest, best light. A local ASI-approved guide at the gate costs ~£10 if you want the story. After breakfast visit Agra Fort (£4) and Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb/Baby Taj (£3). Finish with a Gatimaan Express train back to Delhi (~£10, 1h40) or a Shatabdi — both fast and comfortable.

🚌Taj auto transfers ~£3; Gatimaan Express Agra–Delhi ~£10

🛏None (or one more night in Delhi if you're flying next day)

• →Taj Mahal at sunrise
• →Agra Fort
• →Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb (Baby Taj)
• →Train back to Delhi