Rajasthan: Laneways & Local Villages — Self-Launched

Land at Indira Gandhi International and get to your base in Paharganj or Karol Bagh by Delhi Metro Airport Express (₹60, ~£0.60) or a pre-paid taxi (~₹500, £5). Check into a hostel dorm (Madpackers, Zostel or goStops are reliable chains). Spend the afternoon acclimatising: wander Connaught Place, then in the evening head to the electric Karol Bagh market for street food — chole bhature, tandoori momos, kulfi — for under £4. Book your onward Delhi–Mandawa transport and your first train legs tonight while you have wifi.

🚌Airport Express metro ~£0.60, or pre-paid taxi ~£5

🛏Hostel dorm, Paharganj/Karol Bagh (~£7)

• →Karol Bagh market street-food crawl
• →Connaught Place wander
• →Book onward trains on IRCTC

Morning train or bus toward Jhunjhunu/Nawalgarh in the Shekhawati region — Delhi to Jhunjhunu by bus is ~7 hrs (~₹500, £5); trains to Nawalgarh run via Jaipur. From Jhunjhunu or Nawalgarh take a local bus or shared jeep to Mandawa (~₹50–100, £1). Mandawa was a caravan-route trading town and is packed with frescoed havelis. Check into a small guesthouse (many are converted havelis, ~£10–14 double, so ~£6–7 pp). Late afternoon, self-walk the old town: the havelis are largely free to view from the street, with small tips (₹50–100) expected at some private ones.

🚌Bus Delhi–Jhunjhunu ~£5, local bus/jeep to Mandawa ~£1

🛏Guesthouse / converted haveli, Mandawa (~£7 pp)

• →Self-guided haveli walk in Mandawa old town
• →Frescoed merchant havelis
• →Sunset from Mandawa fort ramparts

Long travel day. Take a shared jeep or bus back to Jhunjhunu/Nawalgarh, then a train or bus onward to Jodhpur — Shekhawati to Jodhpur is roughly 7–9 hrs; overnight or early-morning trains are cheapest (sleeper class ~₹300, £3). Arrive, check into a guesthouse in the old blue-washed lanes below Mehrangarh (~£7–10 pp). In the late afternoon do your own orientation walk of the walled city: the clock tower, Sardar Market and the blue lanes of Navchokiya. Dinner of mirchi vada and makhaniya lassi near the clock tower for ~£3.

🚌Shared jeep/bus plus sleeper train or bus, ~£4–6

🛏Guesthouse in old town, Jodhpur (~£8 pp)

• →Orientation walk of old walled city
• →Sadar Bazaar / Sardar Market browsing
• →Clock tower and blue-lane wander

Free day. Walk or take a ₹20 auto up to Mehrangarh Fort in the cool morning — entry ~₹600 with audio guide (£6). If you want the countryside artisan experience, head to a nearby village by local bus or shared jeep and visit carpet weavers and potters (a guided jeep excursion booked locally is ~₹1,500–2,000 per vehicle, so split it). Evening option: see the fort lit up from a rooftop café. Keep it cheap — this whole day can be done for under £15.

🚌Auto-rickshaw ~£0.20, local bus to village ~£0.50

🛏Guesthouse in old town, Jodhpur (~£8 pp)

• →Mehrangarh Fort and museum (self-guided audio tour)
• →Village artisan visit (weavers, potters)
• →Rooftop view of illuminated fort

Travel southeast toward Udaipur. If you want Ranakpur's stunning marble Jain temple, get off the direct route and take a bus or shared jeep via Ranakpur (entry ~₹200, £2, plus camera fee). Otherwise a direct bus or train Jodhpur–Udaipur takes 5–6 hrs (~₹250–400, £3–4). Arrive in Udaipur, the 'City of Lakes', and check into a lakeside guesthouse in Lal Ghat (~£8–12 pp). Evening stroll along Lake Pichola for the sunset over the ghats — free.

🚌Bus or train Jodhpur–Udaipur ~£3–4 (Ranakpur detour adds ~£2)

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Lal Ghat, Udaipur (~£9 pp)

• →Ranakpur Jain Temple (optional detour)
• →Lake Pichola sunset
• →Lal Ghat and ghat-side stroll

Self-guided day in Udaipur. City Palace complex entry ~₹400 (£4) with a self-guided audio or the signboards; Jagdish Temple is free. In the afternoon take a shared boat on Lake Pichola (~₹400–600, £4–6) or just explore the narrow lanes around Jagdish Chowk. Book a cheap cultural evening — a Dharohar folk-dance show at Bagore ki Haveli is ~₹150 (£1.50) and genuinely good value. Eat thali dinners for ~£3–4.

🚌Walking, occasional auto ~£1 total

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Udaipur (~£9 pp)

• →City Palace complex (self-guided)
• →Jagdish Temple
• →Lake Pichola boat ride (shared)
• →Bagore ki Haveli folk dance show

Another free day to slow down. Join a small-group Rajasthani cooking class (bookable on Klook/GetYourGuide, ~£12–18) where you shop in the market and cook a thali. Alternatively rent a scooter or bike and ride out to Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace or Badi Lake. Afternoon at a rooftop café over the lake. This is the kind of day the original tour leaves open — do it your own way.

🚌Walking / scooter rental ~£5

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Udaipur (~£9 pp)

• →Rajasthani cooking class (market visit + thali)
• →Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace (optional)
• →Rooftop lake-view café afternoon

Bus or train toward Ajmer (3–4 hrs, ~₹250, £3), then a local bus or shared auto the 13 km to Pushkar (~₹30, £0.30). Pushkar is a small holy lake town — check into a guesthouse or hostel (~£6–10 pp). Spend the afternoon walking the ghats and the bazaar, and climb to Savitri Temple at sunset for panoramic views (free; go early to beat the heat). Note Pushkar is vegetarian and alcohol-free.

🚌Train/bus to Ajmer ~£3, shared auto to Pushkar ~£0.30

🛏Hostel/guesthouse, Pushkar (~£7 pp)

• →Pushkar Lake ghats
• →Savitri Temple sunset climb
• →Pushkar bazaar browsing

Morning bus or train to Jaipur (Ajmer–Jaipur is ~2 hrs, ~₹150–250, £2–3). Check into a hostel in the old city (Zostel or Moustache, ~£7–10 pp). Afternoon self-guided orientation of the Pink City: Hawa Mahal (best viewed free from a café opposite), the bazaars of Johari and Bapu, and Albert Hall Museum exterior. Evening street food: pyaaz kachori and lassi for under £3.

🚌Train/bus Pushkar–Jaipur ~£3

🛏Hostel, old city Jaipur (~£8 pp)

• →Hawa Mahal and Pink City bazaars
• →Albert Hall Museum exterior
• →Jaipur street-food evening

The big day. Take a local bus or shared auto to Amber (Amer) Fort (~₹30–50, £0.50) — arrive by 8am to dodge crowds. Amber Fort entry is ~₹550 (£5.50) with the audio guide; the fort's courtyards and Sheesh Mahal blend Hindu and Mughal architecture. On the way back, stop at Jal Mahal viewpoint and, if you have energy, City Palace (~₹700, £7) and Jantar Mantar (~₹200, £2). Optional: a guided Jaipur cycle tour (~£15–20, book on GetYourGuide) starting with a traditional lassi. Back in town, shop or see a Bollywood film at Raj Mandir for ₹150 (~£1.50).

🚌Local bus/shared auto to Amber ~£0.50, autos ~£2

🛏Hostel, old city Jaipur (~£8 pp)

• →Amber Fort (self-guided audio tour)
• →Jal Mahal viewpoint
• →Jantar Mantar and City Palace (optional)
• →Optional Jaipur cycle tour with lassi

Travel to Agra. The fastest option is a train (e.g. the Gatimaan/Double Decker, ~4 hrs, chair car ~₹750, £7.50) or a slower but cheaper bus/train (5–6 hrs, £3–4). Arrive and check into a guesthouse in Taj Ganj with a rooftop view of the Taj (~£7–10 pp) — worth the splurge for the morning view. Evening: stroll the Taj Ganj lanes and eat Mughlai — try petha (Agra's sweet) and a rooftop dinner.

🚌Train Jaipur–Agra ~£4–7.50

🛏Guesthouse in Taj Ganj, Agra (~£8 pp)

• →Train journey to Agra
• →Taj Ganj lanes and rooftop Taj view
• →Agra Mughlai dinner

Get to the Taj Mahal for sunrise (ticket office opens before dawn; entry ~₹1,100 (£11) plus ₹200 for the main mausoleum). Book online in advance on the ASI's official ticketing site to skip queues. Spend 2–3 hours exploring, then return for breakfast and a nap. Afternoon: see the Taj from the far bank at Mehtab Bagh (~₹300, £3) for the classic reflection shot. If time, Itmad-ud-Daulah ('Baby Taj') is quieter and cheap (~₹310).

🚌Walking / tuk-tuk ~£2

🛏Guesthouse in Taj Ganj, Agra (~£8 pp)

• →Taj Mahal sunrise visit (pre-booked entry)
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset view
• →Itmad-ud-Daulah (Baby Taj)

Morning: Agra Fort, the red-sandstone Mughal palace-fort — entry ~₹550 (£5.50); a government-approved local guide costs ~₹500 (£5) and is worth it for context (the original tour includes a guided visit). Midday train back toward Delhi (Agra–Delhi 2–3 hrs, chair car ~₹400–750, £4–7.50) or push on toward your final Rajasthan stop. Check into a hostel in Delhi for the night if looping back, or stay one more night in Agra to catch the Taj again.

🚌Train Agra–Delhi ~£4–7.50

🛏Hostel, Delhi or Agra (~£7 pp)

• →Agra Fort (with optional local guide)
• →Train back toward Delhi
• →Delhi hostel evening

Back in Delhi. Explore Old Delhi independently: take the metro to Chandni Chowk, ride a cycle rickshaw through the lanes, see Jama Masjid and (if you like) Red Fort. For food, graze your way down Paranthe Wali Gali and Gali Paranthe for £2–3. If you'd rather have a guide, a half-day Old Delhi culinary walking tour books on GetYourGuide/Klook for ~£35–45 including tastings. Evening: Humayun's Tomb or a quiet rooftop in Paharganj.

🚌Delhi Metro ~£1 day, cycle rickshaw ~£1

🛏Hostel, Delhi (~£7 pp)

• →Old Delhi: Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid, Red Fort
• →Cycle-rickshaw ride through Old Delhi lanes
• →Optional half-day Old Delhi culinary tour
• →Street-food crawl on Paranthe Wali Gali

Final morning. If your flight is later, fit in one last sight — Qutub Minar or Lodhi Gardens (both cheap/free) — or do some last-minute shopping in Dilli Haat. Take the Airport Express or a pre-paid taxi to IGI for your flight out, or start your onward India adventure (Varanasi, Amritsar and Rishikesh are easy train connections from Delhi).

🚌Airport Express metro ~£0.60 or pre-paid taxi ~£5

🛏—

• →Qutub Minar or Lodhi Gardens (optional)
• →Dilli Haat craft market
• →Airport transfer