Patagonia Overland: Puerto Varas to Ushuaia — Self-Launched

Arrive in Puerto Varas at your leisure. This charming lakeside town on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, framed by the snow-capped Osorno volcano, is the perfect introduction to Patagonia. Check into your hostel, grab a craft beer at one of the waterfront bars, and get orientated. Stock up on snacks, camping supplies, and pesos for the days ahead.

🚌Fly into Puerto Montt (PMC) — frequent buses connect Puerto Montt to Puerto Varas, ~£2, 30 mins

🛏Casa Azul Hostel or Margouya Patagonia Hostel, Puerto Varas — dorm from ~£18/night

• →Walk the lakeshore promenade with views of Volcán Osorno
• →Visit the local market to stock up on supplies
• →Explore the German-influenced town centre
• →Plan your Carretera Austral transport legs at the hostel

Begin your journey south along the Carretera Austral — Chile's legendary Ruta 7. Take a morning bus from Puerto Montt south through Ensenada and La Arena, then board the short ferry crossing at La Arena to Puelche (~£5), continuing by bus to Hornopirén. The scenery shifts immediately: dense temperate rainforest, waterfalls, and the smell of salt and pine.

🚌Bus + ferry combination along Ruta 7. Total transport ~£20. Book buses via Turbus or local minibus operators.

🛏Hospedaje or basic campsite in Hornopirén — ~£12–18/night

• →Bus from Puerto Varas to La Arena (~£8)
• →Ferry crossing La Arena–Puelche (~£5)
• →Continue by bus to Hornopirén (~£6)
• →Evening walk to viewpoints over the fjord

Take the spectacular Naviera Austral ferry from Hornopirén through the narrow fjords to Chaitén — a 4–5 hour sailing through some of the most dramatic scenery in South America. Towering forested cliffs, glaciers spilling to the waterline, and sea lions on the rocks. Arrive in Chaitén, a town rebuilt after its namesake volcano erupted in 2008. Set up camp or check into a hospedaje.

🚌Naviera Austral ferry, ~4–5 hours. Book ahead, especially in high season (Dec–Feb).

🛏Camping Chaitén or Hospedaje El Volcán — ~£12–15/night

• →Naviera Austral ferry Hornopirén–Chaitén (~£30–40, book in advance at navieraustral.cl)
• →Wildlife spotting on deck: dolphins, sea lions, seabirds
• →Explore Chaitén and the old volcanic destruction zone
• →Visit Parque Pumalín nearby if time allows

Take a morning minibus east from Chaitén to Futalefú (~£10, 3–4 hours), a small town sitting at the confluence of the turquoise Espolón and Futaleufú rivers in a remote Andean valley. Futalefú is world-renowned for its class V white water and is a paradise for outdoor adventure. Spend the afternoon exploring the riverside trails or booking an optional activity.

🚌Minibus from Chaitén to Futalefú, ~3–4 hours, ~£10

🛏Hostal Río Grande or Camping Aldea Puerto Espolón, Futalefú — ~£15/night

• →Minibus Chaitén–Futalefú (~£10, departs ~8am)
• →Walk the Sendero de Chile riverside trail (free)
• →Optional: White-water rafting on the Río Futaleufú (~£60–80 via local operators)
• →Optional: Horseback riding or mountain biking (book locally, ~£30–50)

A long transit day south through extraordinary scenery. Take a minibus from Futalefú back to the Carretera Austral and continue south to Coyhaique, the largest town on the route and a great resupply stop. The road winds through river valleys, past hanging glaciers, and through the Villa Mañihuales corridor. Stock up here — ATMs, gear shops, and supermarkets.

🚌Minibus or shared transfer south along Carretera Austral. Multiple operators daily. ~£20

🛏Hostal Nomade or Hostal Bellavista, Coyhaique — dorm ~£18/night

• →Minibus south via Villa Santa Lucía and La Junta to Coyhaique (~£18–22, ~8–10 hours)
• →Stop at Lago Verde or Puyuhuapi for photos
• →Resupply: supermarket, ATM, camping gas
• →Evening: explore Coyhaique's Plaza de Armas and local parilla restaurants

A free day to explore the region around Coyhaique. The standout day trip is to Reserva Nacional Coyhaique and the nearby hanging glacier at Ventisquero Colgante in Queulat National Park (if you detoured via Puyuhuapi) — or take a local excursion to Laguna San Rafael glacier by boat. Alternatively hike in the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo, a less-visited gem with dramatic basalt spires.

🚌Local taxis or shared minibuses for day trips. ~£10–15

🛏Hostal Nomade or Hostal Bellavista, Coyhaique — dorm ~£18/night

• →Day hike in Reserva Nacional Coyhaique (free entry)
• →Optional: Full-day trip to Cerro Castillo viewpoint (~£8 entry, taxi/bus ~£10 return)
• →Optional: Boat excursion to Laguna San Rafael glacier (~£80–100, book via local agencies)
• →Visit the marble caves at Puerto Río Tranquilo (reachable by shared minibus, ~£15)

Continue south along the Carretera Austral, passing Lago General Carrera — the stunning turquoise lake straddling the Chile–Argentina border. Stop at Puerto Río Tranquilo to take a short boat trip to the famous Marble Caves (Cuevas de Mármol), one of Patagonia's most photogenic sights. Continue to Cochrane, a frontier cattle town and gateway to the Patagonia National Park.

🚌Minibus services south along Ruta 7. Marble Caves boat trip booked at Puerto Río Tranquilo dock.

🛏Hostal Última Esperanza or camping in Cochrane — ~£15/night

• →Bus/minibus Coyhaique–Puerto Río Tranquilo (~£12, ~3 hours)
• →Boat tour to Marble Caves (~£12–15, ~1 hour, book at the port)
• →Continue by minibus to Cochrane (~£10, ~3 hours)
• →Evening stroll around Cochrane's quiet streets

Explore Patagonia National Park (formerly Reserva Nacional Tamango) — a conservation success story and one of South America's newest and most rewarding national parks. Hike through open steppe, puma territory, and restored landscapes to viewpoints over the Baker and Cochrane rivers. The park was largely created through Tompkins Conservation's land donations to Chile.

🚌Local taxi or minibus to park entrance (~£8 return from Cochrane)

🛏Camping inside Patagonia National Park (basic facilities, ~£8/night) or back in Cochrane

• →Hike Sendero Lagunas Altas in Patagonia National Park (~£6 entry)
• →Wildlife watching: guanacos, condors, pumas (rare)
• →Optional: Day trip to Caleta Tortel, a unique village of boardwalks (~£10 return by minibus)
• →Visit the CONAF ranger station for trail maps

Cross the Chilean border into Argentina at Chile Chico, passing through frontier farmland and volcanic steppe. Los Antiguos sits on the shores of Lago Buenos Aires and is famous for its cherries. This marks your transition from the Carretera Austral to Argentina's legendary Ruta 40 — one of the world's great road trips. Change currency and get Argentine pesos at the border or in town.

🚌Local minibus to Chile Chico border, then walk across, then local bus to Los Antiguos (~£2)

🛏Hospedaje or campsite in Los Antiguos — ~£12–18/night

• →Bus/minibus to Chile Chico (~£10 from Cochrane area)
• →Border crossing Chile Chico–Los Antiguos (walking crossing, ~30 mins)
• →Visit the cherry farms (Jan–Feb) or local artisan market
• →Plan onward transport to El Chaltén at the bus terminal

Tackle one of Patagonia's most remote overland legs: the legendary Ruta 40 south from Los Antiguos to El Chaltén. The road crosses vast, empty Patagonian steppe — wind-blasted, treeless, and breathtakingly desolate. Shared minibuses run this route in high season (Nov–Mar). Arrive in El Chaltén — Argentina's trekking capital — in time to plan your hikes. The jagged spires of Fitz Roy dominate the horizon.

🚌Shared minibus via Ruta 40. Book in advance at Los Antiguos bus terminal or via Chaltén Travel.

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Albergue Patagonia, El Chaltén — dorm ~£20/night

• →Shared minibus Los Antiguos–El Chaltén via Ruta 40 (~£35–45, ~8–10 hours, operators include Chaltén Travel)
• →Arrive and register at the PNLG (Los Glaciares) park office (free, mandatory)
• →Evening briefing at park visitor centre on trail conditions
• →Spot condors and guanacos on arrival

The crown jewel of El Chaltén — hike to Laguna de los Tres for a jaw-dropping close-up view of Monte Fitz Roy reflected in the milky-blue glacial lake. This is one of the best day hikes in the world, and it's completely free. Start early to beat afternoon cloud and wind. The 22km round trip gains ~900m and takes 6–8 hours. Pack layers — Patagonian weather changes in minutes.

🚌Walk directly from town — all trailheads are accessible on foot

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Albergue Patagonia, El Chaltén — dorm ~£20/night

• →Laguna de los Tres day hike (free, 22km return, 6–8 hours)
• →Optional side trail to Laguna Capri for sunrise views
• →Pack your own lunch — cook at the hostel or buy at El Chaltén's bakeries
• →Evening: pasta and Malbec at a local restaurant

Second major hike from El Chaltén: Laguna Torre, with views of the needle-like Cerro Torre and its hanging glacier. The 18km return trail is slightly easier than Fitz Roy and equally stunning. If legs are tired from yesterday, explore the shorter Mirador de los Cóndores loop for aerial views over town, or cross the Río de las Vueltas on the bridge to the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado viewpoint trail.

🚌Walk from town

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Albergue Patagonia, El Chaltén — dorm ~£20/night

• →Laguna Torre day hike (free, 18km return, 5–6 hours)
• →Optional: Extend to Mirador Maestri for glacier face views
• →Condor spotting from Mirador de los Cóndores (2km from town)
• →Browse El Chaltén's craft beer scene in the evening

Take the bus from El Chaltén to El Calafate (~3 hours, ~£12) — gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier. El Calafate is a tourist hub on the shores of Lago Argentino. Check in, restock, and visit the lakefront in the afternoon. Book your Perito Moreno visit for tomorrow directly at the park office or online at the Los Glaciares National Park website.

🚌Bus from El Chaltén, ~3 hours, ~£12

🛏América del Sur Hostel or Hostel del Glaciar Libertador, El Calafate — dorm ~£20/night

• →Bus El Chaltén–El Calafate (~£12, 3 hours, via TAQSA or Chaltén Travel)
• →Stroll the Costanera along Lago Argentino
• →Book Perito Moreno tickets online at losglaciaresreservas.turismo.gob.ar (~£15)
• →Visit the local artisan market on Av. del Libertador

One of the world's great natural spectacles — Perito Moreno Glacier. This is one of the few advancing glaciers on Earth and the thunderous sound of house-sized ice blocks calving into Lago Argentino is unforgettable. Spend the day on the walkway system above the glacier face. For an upgrade, book a 'Big Ice' guided trek on the glacier itself directly with Hielo y Aventura.

🚌Return bus from El Calafate bus terminal to Perito Moreno, ~£12

🛏América del Sur Hostel or Hostel del Glaciar Libertador, El Calafate — dorm ~£20/night

• →Bus from El Calafate to Perito Moreno Glacier (~£12 return, departs 8am from bus terminal)
• →National park entry ~£15
• →Walkway network above the glacier — 2–3 hours exploring
• →Optional: Mini-trekking on the glacier with Hielo y Aventura (~£55, book at their El Calafate office)

Cross back into Chile, taking the bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales (~3.5 hours, ~£18). Puerto Natales is the base for Torres del Paine and a classic Patagonian frontier town. Settle in, buy your park entry tickets online (book well in advance — they sell out), sort camping gear hire if needed, and brief yourself on the W-Trek or full Circuit trail at the park office.

🚌International bus El Calafate–Puerto Natales via Bus Sur or Turbus, ~£18

🛏Erratic Rock Hostel or The Singular Puerto Natales (budget rooms) — dorm ~£20/night

• →Bus El Calafate–Puerto Natales (~£18, 3.5 hours, border crossing included)
• →Book Torres del Paine entry online at reservastorresdelpaine.cl (~£22)
• →Hire or buy camping equipment at Erratic Rock or Base Camp Patagonia
• →Attend the free 3pm trekking briefing at Erratic Rock Hostel (daily in season)

Enter Torres del Paine — UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and one of the world's top trekking destinations. Take the morning bus from Puerto Natales to the park (~£12) and begin the W Trek from the eastern arm: hike from Hotel Las Torres to the Mirador Las Torres viewpoint. The 9km (one-way) climb rewards with the iconic view of the three granite towers reflected in a turquoise lake. Camp at Chileno or Torres camp.

🚌Bus from Puerto Natales to park, then on foot

🛏Camping Chileno or Camping Torres — ~£10–15/night (pre-book at reservastorresdelpaine.cl)

• →Bus Puerto Natales–Torres del Paine park entrance (~£12)
• →Hike Las Torres base camp trail (18km return, ~7–8 hours)
• →Park entry ~£22 (pre-booked)
• →Set up camp at Camping Chileno or Torres (pre-booked via CONAF)

Trek through the heart of the W: across to Camping Italiano and up into Valle del Francés — a hanging valley hemmed in by dramatic peaks, hanging glaciers, and the sound of cracking seracs. This is arguably the wildest and most dramatic section of the W. Continue to Camping Paine Grande on the shores of Lago Pehoé, with panoramic views of the Cuernos del Paine spires.

🚌On foot throughout

🛏Camping Paine Grande — ~£12/night (pre-book via reservastorresdelpaine.cl)

• →Trek Chileno → Cuernos → Valle del Francés → Paine Grande (~18km, 7–9 hours)
• →Hike up Valle del Francés to Mirador Británico for glacier views
• →Wildlife: Andean condors, foxes, guanacos along the trail
• →Camp at Paine Grande (pre-booked, ~£12/night)

Catch the morning catamaran from Paine Grande across Lago Pehoé (~£25) to the park exit, then the bus back to Puerto Natales. From Puerto Natales, take a bus to Punta Arenas (~£12, 3 hours), then either a 1-hour flight or an overnight bus + ferry combination across the Strait of Magellan to Ushuaia — the southernmost city on Earth. You've made it to the end of the world. Celebrate accordingly.

🚌Catamaran + bus + bus + flight (recommended) to Ushuaia. Total ~£140–170 depending on flight price.

🛏Freestyle Hostel or Antarctica Hostel, Ushuaia — dorm ~£20/night

• →Catamaran Paine Grande–Pudeto (~£25, departs 9am or 12pm — book at park office)
• →Bus Pudeto–Puerto Natales (~£10)
• →Bus Puerto Natales–Punta Arenas (~£12, 3 hours via Bus Sur/Turbus)
• →Flight Punta Arenas–Ushuaia (~£80–120 via LATAM/Aerolíneas, book in advance) OR bus+ferry ~£35 but adds a day
• →Arrive Ushuaia: walk the waterfront, celebrate at a bar overlooking the Beagle Channel