Self-Launched Everest & Gokyo Lakes Circuit, Nepal

Fly into Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) and make your own way to Thamel — the backpacker hub of Kathmandu. A taxi from the airport costs around £5–8 (negotiate before getting in, or use a prepaid taxi desk). Check into a guesthouse in Thamel and spend the evening wandering the buzzing streets, grabbing a dal bhat, and soaking up the chaos. This is the night to sort any last-minute gear you've forgotten — Thamel is lined with trekking shops selling everything from down jackets to hiking poles at very reasonable prices.

🚌Prepaid taxi from KTM airport to Thamel (~£5–8)

🛏Guesthouse in Thamel, Kathmandu — e.g. Hotel Encounter Nepal or similar budget hotel (~£15–20/night twin share)

• →Explore Thamel's markets and gear shops
• →Pick up any last-minute trekking supplies
• →Optional: visit Pashupatinath Temple or Boudhanath Stupa (entry ~£3 each)

Use today to sort your trekking permits — you'll need two: the TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management System, ~£15) and the Sagarmatha National Park entry permit (~£25). Both can be obtained in person at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pradarshani Marg, or at the Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN) office. You can also hire a licensed independent trekking guide directly here or through Thamel guesthouses — expect to pay £20–30/day for a good English-speaking guide. Arrange your porter at the same time (£12–18/day). In the afternoon, take a bus to Ramechhap/Manthali (departs from the New Bus Park, ~£5–6, ~6 hrs) ready for an early morning Lukla flight.

🚌Tourist bus from Kathmandu New Bus Park to Ramechhap (~£5–6, ~6 hrs)

🛏Budget guesthouse near Ramechhap/Manthali airport (~£8–12/night)

• →Obtain TIMS card at Nepal Tourism Board (~£15)
• →Obtain Sagarmatha National Park permit (~£25)
• →Hire a licensed guide and porter directly (negotiate rates in Thamel or via guesthouse)

Take an early morning flight from Manthali/Ramechhap to Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport). Tara Air and Summit Air operate these routes — book direct on their websites or through a local agent in Kathmandu (~£120–140 return per person). The 20-minute flight over the Himalayan foothills is breathtaking. From Lukla (2,840m), follow the trail down through pine forests alongside the Dudh Kosi River to Phakding village (~2,610m). The walk takes around 3–4 hours and is a gentle warm-up for the days ahead. Teahouses in Phakding are plentiful — expect to pay £3–6/night for a basic twin room (meals are extra but cheap).

🚌Manthali to Lukla flight via Tara Air or Summit Air (~£120–140 return, book in advance)

🛏Teahouse in Phakding (~£3–6/night, twin share)

• →Scenic 20-minute mountain flight to Lukla
• →4hr hike along Dudh Kosi River to Phakding (~5 miles, ~190m ascent)
• →Explore Phakding village and nearby monasteries

Today's hike (~5–6 hrs, ~6 miles) is the toughest of the lower section, climbing ~1,200m to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) — the gateway to the Khumbu. Highlights include crossing the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge with views of Mt. Thamserku (6,623m), passing through Jorsale, and the steep final push up to Namche. Your first glimpse of Everest's summit from the ridge above town makes it all worthwhile. Namche is a proper mountain town with ATMs (last reliable ones on the trek), a bakery, gear shops, and lively teahouses.

🚌Self-guided hiking (your licensed guide leads the way)

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Cross the Hillary Suspension Bridge
• →Steep climb to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
• →First views of Mt. Everest from the ridge above town
• →Withdraw cash from ATM in Namche (last reliable ATMs on the trek)

A rest day at 3,440m is essential before pushing higher. The golden rule of altitude acclimatisation: 'climb high, sleep low'. Take an easy hike up to the Everest View Hotel (3,880m) for a jaw-dropping panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku — this is free to access as a walking trail. Visit the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre and the weekly Saturday market (if you're here on the right day). The Hillary School and Khunde Hospital are a short detour away. Eat well, hydrate, and rest.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Acclimatisation hike to Everest View Hotel (3,880m) — free trail
• →Visit Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre
• →Explore Namche's bakeries, cafes and gear shops
• →Optional: hike to Khunde and Hillary School

Leave Namche and climb to Mong La (3,973m) for panoramic views of the Dudh Koshi valley before descending steeply to Phortse Thanga (~3,680m), a peaceful riverside settlement. The route passes through rhododendron and pine forest and offers great views of Ama Dablam. The hike takes around 5 hours. A local monastery near Phortse Thanga is worth a quick visit if it's open. This quieter trail sees far fewer trekkers than the main EBC route — enjoy the relative solitude.

🚌On foot (~5 hrs, ~5 miles)

🛏Teahouse in Phortse Thanga (~£3–6/night, twin share)

• →Climb to Mong La Pass (3,973m) with valley views
• →Descend to Phortse Thanga along forested trail
• →Visit local Gompa (monastery) near the village

A longer, steeper day (~6 hrs) climbing through rhododendron forests via the Sherpa villages of Tonga and Gyele to reach Dole (~4,200m). The landscape changes dramatically as you push above the treeline into open alpine terrain. Views of Khumbila (5,765m) and Tawache (6,501m) are stunning. Take it slowly — you're now well above 4,000m. Dole is a small, quiet village with a handful of teahouses; a great place to catch your breath.

🚌On foot (~6 hrs, ~3 miles with significant ascent)

🛏Teahouse in Dole (~£3–5/night, twin share)

• →Trek through rhododendron forest above treeline
• →Pass through authentic Sherpa villages of Tonga and Gyele
• →Photography of Khumbila and Tawache peaks

A relatively short day (~4 hrs) ascending through juniper scrub and yak pastures to Machhermo (~4,470m). Arrive around lunchtime — use the afternoon to rest and acclimatise. The views of Cho Oyu (8,188m), the sixth-highest mountain in the world, are extraordinary from here. The Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) information centre in Machhermo (run by the Himalayan Rescue Association) is free to visit and well worth a stop to review altitude symptoms with your guide.

🚌On foot (~4 hrs, ~3 miles)

🛏Teahouse in Machhermo (~£3–5/night, twin share)

• →Short acclimatisation hike above Machhermo for Cho Oyu views
• →Visit HRA Altitude Sickness Information Centre (free)
• →Rest and rehydrate in preparation for Gokyo Valley

Trek along the edge of the Ngozumpa Glacier — the longest glacier in the Himalayas — to reach Gokyo village (~4,790m) beside the stunning turquoise Third Gokyo Lake. The trail follows the Dudh Kosi River upstream, passing the First and Second Gokyo Lakes before arriving at the main village (~5 hrs, ~6 miles). Gokyo is one of the most photogenic spots in the entire Himalayas — the sacred turquoise lakes set against towering white peaks will stop you in your tracks. Several good teahouses here with rooftop views.

🚌On foot (~5 hrs, ~6 miles)

🛏Teahouse in Gokyo (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Trek alongside the vast Ngozumpa Glacier
• →Pass the First and Second Gokyo Lakes
• →Arrive at Third Gokyo Lake — one of the most beautiful views in the Himalayas

Another crucial acclimatisation day at ~4,790m. The main event: hike up Gokyo Ri (5,357m / 17,575 ft) — a steep 2–3 hr climb from the village but absolutely non-negotiable for the views. From the summit, four 8,000m peaks are visible simultaneously — Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Makalu — alongside the turquoise Gokyo Lakes and the immense Ngozumpa Glacier stretching to the horizon. No guide required for Gokyo Ri — it's a clear, well-marked trail. Start early to beat cloud build-up. Spend the afternoon resting and exploring the Fourth and Fifth Gokyo Lakes if energy allows.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse in Gokyo (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Summit Gokyo Ri (5,357m) — 2–3 hr climb, no technical skill required
• →360° views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and the Gokyo Lakes
• →Optional: explore Fourth and Fifth Gokyo Lakes in the afternoon

A short but memorable day (~4 hrs, ~3 miles) trekking from Gokyo onto and across the Ngozumpa Glacier itself to reach Thagnak (~4,700m), the staging post for tomorrow's big Cho La Pass crossing. The glacier crossing is straightforward but requires care — your guide will lead you safely between cairns, ice formations, and moraine deposits. Arrive early, eat well, and get an early night: tomorrow is the hardest day of the trek.

🚌On foot across Ngozumpa Glacier (~4 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Thagnak (~£3–5/night, twin share)

• →Cross the Ngozumpa Glacier — the longest glacier in the Himalayas
• →Navigate between ice formations and moraine with your guide
• →Rest and prepare for Cho La Pass crossing tomorrow

The hardest and most spectacular day of the entire circuit (~8 hrs, ~8 miles). Start before dawn. The ascent to Cho La Pass (5,420m / 17,782 ft) is steep and rocky with significant scrambling on icy terrain — trekking poles and microspikes/crampons (hire in Namche ~£3–5/day) are strongly recommended. The glaciated top of the pass demands concentration, but the panoramic Himalayan views are extraordinary. Descend via a rocky gully into the Khumbu Valley to reach Dzongla (~4,830m). A challenging but deeply rewarding day that relatively few trekkers do — you've earned tonight's rest.

🚌On foot (~8 hrs, ~8 miles, significant scrambling)

🛏Teahouse in Dzongla (~£3–5/night, twin share)

• →Cross Cho La Pass (5,420m) — the highlight of the entire circuit
• →Technical scramble on rocky, often icy terrain (crampons recommended)
• →Panoramic Himalayan summit views before descending into Khumbu Valley

A short recovery day (~3 hrs, ~4 miles) with a gentle descent to Lobuche (~4,940m). The trail passes the Khumbu Glacier lateral moraine and several memorial chortens dedicated to climbers who have died on Everest — a moving and thought-provoking sight. Rest up in Lobuche and prepare mentally and physically for tomorrow's milestone: Everest Base Camp.

🚌On foot (~3 hrs, ~4 miles)

🛏Teahouse in Lobuche (~£4–6/night, twin share)

• →Visit memorial chortens dedicated to fallen Everest climbers
• →Short acclimatisation walk above Lobuche
• →Rest and prepare for EBC day

The big one. Trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep (~5,170m) — the last teahouse stop — then continue along the edge of the Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp at 5,364m / 17,598 ft (~5 hrs total, ~7 miles). The base camp itself is rocky and glaciated, often dotted with expedition tents during climbing season (April–May). Spend time taking it all in, then return to Gorak Shep for the night. Note: the best Everest views are actually from Kala Patthar tomorrow — EBC is more about the achievement than the vista.

🚌On foot (~5 hrs to EBC and back to Gorak Shep)

🛏Teahouse in Gorak Shep (~£5–8/night, twin share — most expensive teahouses on the route due to altitude)

• →Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) — the highest point most people will ever stand
• →Walk along the edge of the Khumbu Glacier
• →Photography at EBC with Khumbu Icefall backdrop

Rise before dawn (around 3–4am) for the optional but unmissable climb to Kala Patthar (5,545m / 18,209 ft) — the highest point of the trek and the finest viewpoint in the entire Everest region. Watch the sun rise behind the summit of Everest and the surrounding 8,000m peaks. The climb from Gorak Shep takes 1.5–2 hrs. Return to Gorak Shep for breakfast, then begin the long descent: past Lobuche, Dingboche, and down to Pangboche (~3,930m), crossing suspension bridges and re-entering the lush valley (~8 hrs total, ~12 miles).

🚌On foot (~8 hrs including Kala Patthar ascent)

🛏Teahouse in Pangboche (~£3–6/night, twin share)

• →Summit Kala Patthar (5,545m) for sunrise views of Everest — the best viewpoint on the entire trek
• →Long descent from Gorak Shep to Pangboche via Dingboche
• →Visit Pangboche Monastery — one of the oldest in the Khumbu (small entry fee ~£1)

A long but increasingly green descent (~6 hrs, ~8 miles) back down toward Namche Bazaar, re-crossing suspension bridges and passing through the forest above Phungi Thanga. The air gets noticeably thicker and richer as you drop below 4,000m — many trekkers experience a renewed surge of energy. Celebrate your achievement with a slice of cake at one of Namche's excellent bakeries tonight.

🚌On foot (~6 hrs, ~8 miles)

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Long descent back through Khumbu forests and suspension bridges
• →Celebrate at Namche Bazaar bakery or café
• →Pick up any trekking souvenirs or yak wool goods in Namche

The final day of trekking (~6 hrs, ~11 miles), retracing your steps through pine and rhododendron forests, across the Hillary Bridge and back to Lukla. Say goodbye to your guide and porter here — tipping is customary and expected: budget ~£30–40 total for a guide (£20–25) and porter (£10–15) as a thank-you for the full trek. Have a final celebratory meal in Lukla — the pizza at several guesthouses is surprisingly good after two weeks of dal bhat.

🚌On foot (~6 hrs, ~11 miles)

🛏Teahouse/guesthouse in Lukla (~£4–8/night, twin share)

• →Final day's trekking through rhododendron and pine forests
• →Cross the Hillary Suspension Bridge one last time
• →Tip your guide and porter — budget ~£30–40 total
• →Celebratory meal in Lukla

Early morning flight from Lukla back to Manthali/Ramechhap (~£120–140 return already accounted for on Day 3). The return bus to Kathmandu takes around 6 hours (£5–6 from Ramechhap bus stand). Arrive in Kathmandu in the early evening — check back into Thamel and celebrate in style. The rooftop bars and restaurants of Thamel are well-suited to a post-trek blowout; try OR2K, The Third Eye, or Rosemary Kitchen for something special. Budget slightly more for tonight.

🚌Lukla to Manthali flight (included in return ticket booked on Day 3); bus Ramechhap to Kathmandu (~£5–6, ~6 hrs)

🛏Guesthouse in Thamel, Kathmandu (~£15–20/night, twin share)

• →Morning flight back from Lukla to Manthali
• →Bus journey back to Kathmandu through the hills
• →Celebratory dinner in Thamel — treat yourself after 15 days of dal bhat

Enjoy a well-earned lie-in and leisurely breakfast in Thamel. Spend your final few hours in Kathmandu exploring — Boudhanath Stupa (UNESCO World Heritage Site, ~£3 entry) is a short taxi ride away and a serene way to finish a spiritual Himalayan journey. Head to the airport for your international departure. Allow extra time for traffic — Kathmandu's roads can be chaotic. A taxi to KTM airport costs ~£5.

🚌Taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport (~£5)

🛏Check-out (or arrange late check-out with guesthouse)

• →Leisurely breakfast in Thamel
• →Optional visit to Boudhanath Stupa (~£3 entry)
• →Pick up last-minute souvenirs in Thamel markets
• →Transfer to KTM airport for international departure