Self-Launched Everest Base Camp & Gokyo Lakes Trek

Be at Kathmandu domestic terminal (or an agency desk in Thamel) by 05:00 and buy a one-way KTM–Lukla ticket — around £140 with Tara Air, Sita Air or Summit Air; book two days ahead and keep a spare day for weather delays. Arrive Lukla (2,840m) around 07:00, get your Sagarmatha National Park permit at the entry counter near the airport (NPR 3,000) and TIMS card if you don't already have one, then walk north through the Kani gatehouse, Kyangma, Cheplung and over the Dudh Koshi suspension bridge to Phakding (2,610m), about 3–4 hours. Staff at your teahouse will ask for your passport and national park permit. Sleep cheap and eat early at a lodge in Phakding, roughly £10 for a room.

🚌Domestic flight KTM–Lukla (~£140) plus 3–4 hr trek on foot

🛏Teahouse in Phakding (twin/dorm room, shared bathroom)

• →Sagarmatha National Park permit purchase (NPR 3,000)
• →Kani ceremonial gatehouse
• →Kyangma and Cheplung villages
• →Dudh Koshi suspension bridge crossing

Walk 5–6 hours through Tok-Tok and Benkar, cross the high bridge at Monjo where the national park checkpoint is, then take the long steep climb to Namche Bazaar (3,440m). Fill water bottles at the last free village taps in Monjo — above this point a litre of boiled water costs NPR 150–300. Namche has ATMs, an internet café, pubs and a post office, so stock up on cash and a SIM/data top-up here. Lodges in Namche run £10–14 a night with shared or attached bathrooms.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hours

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (upgrade to attached bathroom for a few pounds more)

• →Monjo national park checkpoint
• →Everest View Hotel viewpoint just above Namche
• →Namche ATM and internet café stop

Rest day at 3,440m. Do the 2-hour return walk to the Everest View Hotel for your first clear sight of Everest, Ama Dablam and Thamserku — the hotel's terrace is open to non-guests if you buy a coffee. In the afternoon visit the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre and Sherpa culture museum (free/donation), then browse the Saturday market stalls and gear shops. If you skipped getting a TIMS card at home, the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu or an agency in Namche can issue one (NPR 2,000).

🚌On foot, short acclimatisation walks

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar

• →Everest View Hotel walk
• →Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre and museum
• →Namche evening bakeries and pubs

A scenic 5–6 hour day: contour past Kenjoma, drop to the Dudh Koshi at Phunkithanga (3,250m) for lunch, then climb steeply through pine forest to Tengboche (3,870m). Tengboche Monastery is the largest in the Khumbu — entry is a small donation and the late-afternoon prayer ceremony is usually open to visitors at around 16:00, worth checking with the monks. Views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam from the ridge are the best on the trek so far. Book a lodge on arrival; baking is the teahouse specialty here.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hours

🛏Teahouse in Tengboche (shared bathroom)

• →Tengboche Monastery prayer ceremony
• →Ama Dablam and Everest viewpoints

Descend through forest to the Imja Khola bridge, pass the mani walls and lodges of Pangboche, then walk the open grazing lands to Dingboche (4,410m) — around 5 hours. Dingboche is the last proper village before the high pass section; buy a gas canister, gloves or a sun hat here if you need them and check how you're feeling at altitude. Lodges cost £10–14 a night but showers and charging are charged separately at NPR 300–500 each.

🚌On foot, ~5 hours

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche (shared bathroom)

• →Pangboche village and monastery
• →Imja Khola crossing

Climb 3–4 hours up the Imja Valley to Chhukung (4,730m) — 'climb high, sleep low' — for close-up views of Ama Dablam's north face and the Island Peak moraines, then walk back down to sleep at Dingboche. Don't push past Chhukung if you're feeling headsore. Use the afternoon to recharge devices (paid), wash clothes and eat a big dal bhat; tomorrow is the move to 4,900m.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hours round trip

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche

• →Chhukung acclimatisation hike
• →Island Peak moraine views

A shorter but harder day: climb to the Thugla ridge memorial chortens (4,830m) — the sombre memorials to climbers lost on Everest — then contour to Lobuche (4,910m) in about 4–5 hours. Pheriche (4,240m) has a Himalayan Rescue Association Trekkers' Aid Post where you can pay for a check-up or oxygen advice if needed; it's a sensible number to note down. Lobuche lodges are basic and cold — bring a down jacket and a four-season sleeping bag.

🚌On foot, ~4–5 hours

🛏Teahouse in Lobuche (shared bathroom, dorm-style)

• →Thugla memorial chortens
• →Pheriche Trekkers' Aid Post (if needed)

Walk 3 hours to Gorakshep (5,140m), dump your bag at the lodge (basically the only option, £12–18 a bed) and continue 2 hours along the Khumbu Glacier lateral moraine to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) — the 'EBC 5364m' sign and the prayer flag viewpoint are the photo stops. In peak season (April–May) you'll see expedition camps on the ice. Return to Gorakshep for a very early dinner and sleep — it's a cold, rough night, so drink plenty and go slow.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hours total

🛏Teahouse in Gorakshep (shared bathroom, very basic)

• →Everest Base Camp 5,364m
• →Khumbu Glacier
• →Expedition camp viewing (Apr–May)

Set an alarm for 04:00 and climb 90 minutes up Kala Patthar (5,545m) for sunrise on Everest — bring a headlamp, every layer you own and gloves; it's the coldest hour of the trip. Back to Gorakshep for breakfast, retrace the trail to Lobuche, then branch west to Dzongla (4,830m), a small lodge settlement with four or five guesthouses. Approximately 7 hours of walking, so start the descent from Kala Patthar by 08:00.

🚌On foot, ~7 hours

🛏Basic teahouse in Dzongla

• →Kala Patthar sunrise viewpoint
• →Dzongla lodge stay

The crux of the whole route: a 7–8 hour day over Cho La (5,420m). Leave Dzongla by 05:30, climb steeply on the west side, and take real care on the glacier crossing and the fixed rope section on the descent if there's ice or snow. In November and spring the north side can be snow-covered — microspikes (hire or buy in Namche for ~£20–25) are worth every penny. Descend to Tagnag (4,700m), a signposted lodge hamlet with a handful of teahouses and no shops. Many solo trekkers team up with a buddy for this pass; ask around the Dzongla dining room the night before.

🚌On foot, ~7–8 hours

🛏Teahouse in Tagnag (shared bathroom)

• →Cho La Pass 5,420m crossing
• →Glacier and fixed-rope section

An easy 3–4 hours over moraine to Gokyo (4,750m), on the shore of the third and largest Gokyo Lake. Spend the afternoon walking the shoreline of the second and first lakes, or continue up to the Ngozumpa Glacier edge for the turquoise views. Gokyo has a handful of lodges with more comfort than Tagnag — some with attached bathrooms — plus a bakery. Sunsets from the lake shore are superb; expect £12–16 a night.

🚌On foot, ~3–4 hours

🛏Teahouse in Gokyo (attached bathroom possible at extra cost)

• →Gokyo Lakes (first, second and third lakes)
• →Ngozumpa Glacier viewpoint

Leave at 04:30 for the 2-hour climb of Gokyo Ri (5,357m) — arguably the best panorama in the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu all line up. Back to Gokyo for breakfast, then descend south past the Ngozumpa Glacier moraines to Dole (4,200m) in about 4 hours. Dole is small and quiet, a good early night after a big day.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hours

🛏Teahouse in Dole (shared bathroom)

• →Gokyo Ri summit and panorama
• →Ngozumpa Glacier descent

Walk 5–6 hours down through Phortse Tenga and along the base of Ama Dablam (or via Khumjung and the Hillary school), rejoining the main trail at Sanasa and into Namche. Descending feels fast — take care with your knees. Treat yourself: a hot shower, a proper bakery coffee, a laundry service and a decent lodge room in Namche for £14–18.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hours

🛏Teahouse or guesthouse in Namche Bazaar

• →Khumjung village
• →Namche bakery and gear-shop browsing

A long but gentle 7–8 hour descent back down the valley: Namche to Monjo, Phakding and on to Lukla via the Cheplung bridge. Confirm your return Lukla–Kathmandu flight for the next morning with the airline office in Lukla or by phone. Book a lodge on the main street (Lukla has dozens) and have a proper meal — you've earned it.

🚌On foot, ~7–8 hours

🛏Guesthouse in Lukla (attached bathroom)

• →Final descent of the Dudh Koshi valley
• →Lukla farewell dinner

Take the early morning Lukla–Kathmandu flight (around 07:00–09:00, ~£140) — weather can delay or cancel flights, so keep one buffer day before any international departure. From Tribhuvan domestic terminal, a taxi or Indrive to Thamel costs about £4–6. In the afternoon, wander Thamel's trekking shops, get a massage and eat at a rooftop restaurant; if you want to sightsee, Swayambhunath and Durbar Square are an easy £10 taxi round trip, and entries are around £8.

🚌Lukla–Kathmandu flight (~£140) plus local taxi (~£5)

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Thamel, Kathmandu (£10–15 dorm / £20 private)

• →Lukla–Kathmandu morning flight
• →Thamel shopping and food
• →Optional Swayambhunath or Durbar Square