Manaslu Circuit Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport, pick up a local SIM (Ncell or NTC, ~£3-5 for data) and change money. Stay in Thamel, which is the hub for trekking permits and gear. Use the afternoon to sort your paperwork: the Nepal Tourism Board office by Bhrikutimandap issues Manaslu RAP and MCAP; ACAP is also issued there. You'll need passport photos and your guide's details.

🚌Pre-paid airport taxi ~NPR 700-1,000 (£4-6)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (£10-15/night)

• →Collect Manaslu RAP, MCAP and ACAP permits at Nepal Tourism Board
• →Buy local SIM card
• →Wander Thamel and Durbar Marg

A cushion day before the trek — useful for acclimatising and sorting gear. Do the Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) walk up from Thamel, then take a local bus or cheap taxi to Boudhanath and Pashupatinath. Rent or buy any missing gear in Thamel (down jackets and sleeping bags rent for ~£1-2/day). Confirm your guide and your jeep booking to Soti Khola for tomorrow.

🚌Local buses/taxis around the valley ~£4

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (£10-15/night)

• →Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) — entry ~£1.50
• →Boudhanath Stupa — entry ~£3
• →Pashupatinath — entry ~£7
• →Final gear check and permit photocopies

A long travel day. Public buses to Arughat leave from Gongabu (Machha Pokhari) bus park early morning (~7am, ~7-8 hours, ~£4-5). From Arughat it's a shared jeep or local bus on the rough road to Soti Khola (1.5-2 hours, ~£2-3). Many trekkers instead book a shared private jeep direct from Kathmandu to Soti Khola (~£15-20 per person shared). Lodge in Soti Khola, right on the Budhi Gandaki.

🚌Public bus Kathmandu–Arughat ~£5, shared jeep Arughat–Soti Khola ~£3 (or shared jeep direct from Kathmandu ~£18)

🛏Teahouse lodge in Soti Khola (£4-6, dal bhat ~£3-4)

• →Scenic drive through Gorkha district
• →Register at the checkpost on arrival

The trek proper begins: a hot, humid day through terraced fields and river gorges via Lapubesi. Cross a couple of long suspension bridges over the Budhi Gandaki. Ascend and descend steadily for 6-7 hours. Machhakhola has hot springs nearby at Tatopani (an hour further on, but the Machhakhola lodge is the usual stop).

🚌On foot, ~6-7 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Machhakhola (£4-6)

• →Lapubesi suspension bridges
• →Budhi Gandaki river gorge walk

Another 6 hours up the valley, crossing a waterfall and passing Sringi Himal views. Jagat is a sizeable village with the restricted-area permit checkpost — have your RAP, MCAP and ACAP permits and passport ready. Once you leave Jagat you're officially inside the restricted zone.

🚌On foot, ~6 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Jagat (£4-6)

• →Sringi Himal views
• →Manaslu restricted-area checkpost

The valley narrows and the landscape becomes more alpine and Tibetan-influenced. Pass through Doban and cross the Deng Khola. About 6 hours of walking. Deng is small but the lodges are comfortable enough; night temperatures drop noticeably from here.

🚌On foot, ~6 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Deng (£4-6)

• →Deng Khola crossing
• →First Tibetan-style villages

A climbing day through pine and rhododendron forest, past mani walls and gompas, into increasingly Tibetan Buddhist country. ~6-7 hours. Namrung sits at about 2,630m and is a lovely village with a small monastery — good spot for the first clear views of Manaslu's north face.

🚌On foot, ~6-7 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Namrung (£4-6)

• →Mani walls and chortens
• →Namrung gompa
• →First Manaslu views

One of the best days of the trek: forest gives way to open alpine meadows with Manaslu North Peak, Naike Peak and the Pungen Glacier in view the whole way. ~6 hours up to Samagaun (3,530m). Take the climb gently — this is your key acclimatisation altitude. Register at the ACAP/Lo-Manthang checkpost.

🚌On foot, ~6 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Samagaun (£4-7)

• →Manaslu North Peak and Naike Peak views
• →Pungen Glacier
• →Acclimatisation rest in the afternoon

Either rest properly in Samagaun or do the excellent acclimatisation day hike to Manaslu Base Camp (4,750m, ~5-6 hours return) past Birendra Lake and Honsanho Gompa. Don't sleep higher than Samagaun tonight — going up and coming back down is how you acclimatise. Note the tour operator's itinerary moves straight on to Samdo; taking this day is a smarter independent choice.

🚌On foot, day hike ~5-6 hours return

🛏Teahouse lodge in Samagaun (£4-7)

• →Manaslu Base Camp day hike (optional, no fee)
• →Birendra Lake
• →Honsanho Gompa

A short, steep climb of about 3-4 hours to Samdo (3,875m), a tiny Tibetan-style settlement right under the Manaslu Glacier and very close to the Tibet border. Short days are deliberate at this altitude. Spend the afternoon hydrating, and check the Larkya La conditions with lodge owners and your guide.

🚌On foot, ~3-4 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Samdo (£4-7)

• →Manaslu Glacier views
• →Optional side trip toward the Tibet border viewpoint
• →Check pass conditions

Repeat-altitude day as per the original itinerary: hike up toward Rui La or along the Athahra Saya Khola for 3-4 hours and return to sleep at Samdo. This is the difference between a comfortable crossing and a miserable one. Hydrate hard, expect -5 to -8°C at night.

🚌On foot, day hike ~3-4 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Samdo (£4-7)

• →Rui La ridge walk
• →Athahra Saya Khola valley views
• →Gear check for the pass

A short 3-4 hour walk up the valley to Dharmasala (4,460m), the basic stone lodge below the Larkya La glacier. Lodges here are very simple with limited food choice — carry snacks and a thermos. Sleep early; you'll be up around 4am for the pass.

🚌On foot, ~3-4 hours

🛏Basic stone lodge at Dharmasala (£4-6)

• →Larkya La Glacier views
• →Early night for the pass crossing

The big day: leave at 4-5am with headtorch, climb ~3-4 hours to the prayer flags of Larkya La (5,160m) — panoramic views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II. Descend steeply for 4-5 hours to Bimthang (3,720m). Roughly 9-10 hours total. Start early, move steadily, watch for ice on the descent. If conditions are bad, waiting a day at Dharmasala is the safe call.

🚌On foot, ~9-10 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Bimthang (£4-7)

• →Larkya La Pass crossing (5,160m)
• →Himlung Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II panoramas
• →Descent through the Dudh Khola valley

A long but beautiful descent day down the Dudh Khola through forest and the Kichke Himal views, joining the Marsyangdi River at Dharapani (1,860m) — the junction with the Annapurna Circuit. Check out of the restricted zone at the Dharapani post. From here you're on the main Annapurna trail with regular jeeps and buses.

🚌On foot, ~6-7 hours

🛏Teahouse lodge in Dharapani (£4-6)

• →Dudh Khola descent
• →Kichke Himal views
• →Marsyangdi valley junction

Take the public jeep/bus down the Besisahar road (Dharapani to Besisahar ~4-5 hours, ~£4; Besisahar to Kathmandu tourist bus ~£6-8, 6-7 hours). Alternative and often better: hop a jeep to Besisahar and a local bus to Pokhara (~£4) for a few days on the lake instead of heading straight back. Evening in Thamel for a celebratory dal bhat and momos.

🚌Shared jeep Dharapani–Besisahar ~£4, tourist bus Besisahar–Kathmandu ~£7 (or bus to Pokhara ~£4)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (£10-15/night) or overnight bus/guesthouse in Pokhara

• →Descend the Marsyangdi valley
• →Farewell dinner in Thamel
• →Optional detour to Pokhara