Self-Launched Everest Base Camp Trek — 15 Days

Fly into Tribhuvan International Airport. Skip the pre-arranged hotel transfer: pre-book an airport pickup through your guesthouse (usually NPR 800–1,200 / ~£5–7) or grab a metered taxi from the official desk outside arrivals (~NPR 700 / ~£4 to Thamel). Check into a Thamel or Paknajang guesthouse. Spend the afternoon gently: sort a Nepali SIM/eSIM (Ncell or NTC counter at the airport, ~£4 for data), draw cash from an ATM (take out more than you think — ATMs above Namche are unreliable), and buy or rent gear on Thamel's trekking shops (down jacket and sleeping bag rental ~£1.50–2.50/day each). Early night — you fly out in two days.

🚌Airport taxi ~£4; walking in Thamel

🛏Thamel guesthouse, private room with hot shower (~£12)

• →Airport transfer to Thamel
• →Buy Nepali SIM/eSIM
• →Rent down jacket and sleeping bag in Thamel
• →Trip admin and cash run

Do the same four UNESCO sites the tour visits, but on your own schedule. Buy the Kathmandu Durbar Square ticket (~NPR 1,000 / ~£6) and walk to Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple, ~NPR 200 / ~£1.20) — it's 30–40 minutes on foot from Thamel. In the afternoon take a metered taxi or Pathao ride to Pashupatinath (~£3) and then Boudhanath (~£3); Boudhanath's stupa kora at dusk is the highlight. Entry to Pashupatinath is ~NPR 1,000 (~£6). Alternatively book a half-day Kathmandu Valley tour on GetYourGuide or Klook (~£25–35) if you'd rather have commentary. Sort your TIMS/permits situation this evening and confirm your Lukla flight with the airline.

🚌Walking plus 2–3 short taxis/Pathao rides (~£8 total)

🛏Thamel guesthouse (~£12)

• →Kathmandu Durbar Square
• →Swayambhunath
• →Pashupatinath
• →Boudhanath at dusk

The Lukla flight is the one thing you should book well ahead — book direct with Tara Air, Summit Air or Yeti Airlines (~£150–190 return, weather dependent, hand luggage 10kg + 5kg). Flights leave from the domestic terminal at 6–7am; be there by 5am. From Lukla (2,860m) walk the gentle 3–4 hour trail down to Phakding (2,610m). In Lukla or Phakding, hire a licensed guide and/or porter directly — standard rates are roughly £20–25/day for a guide and £13–17/day for a porter, and you should also cover their food and lodging. Agree the number of days and the payment schedule in writing. Overnight in a Phakding tea house.

🚌Domestic flight KTM–Lukla (included in the ~£170 return airfare)

🛏Phakding tea house, twin room (~£4–6; meals bought separately)

• →Kathmandu–Lukla flight
• →Trek Lukla to Phakding, 3–4 hrs
• →Hire local guide/porter in Lukla

A long but beautiful day: 6–7 hours up through Jorsale, across the high suspension bridges, and up the notorious Namche hill. At Monjo you register your Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality permit (NPR 3,000 / ~£18, buy at the Monjo or Lukla counter) and your Sagarmatha National Park entry (NPR 3,000 / ~£18). Namche (3,440m) is the last place with decent ATMs, bakeries and gear shops. Tea house in Namche, ideally near the main square.

🚌On foot, 6–7 hrs

🛏Namche tea house, twin room (~£6–8)

• →Sagarmatha National Park entry and Khumbu permit at Monjo
• →Suspension bridge crossings
• →Namche Bazaar evening

Standard acclimatisation day. Walk up to the Everest View Hotel at Syangboche (3,880m) for your first sight of Everest, Nuptse and Ama Dablam — 2 hours up, 1 hour back. Entry to the Syangboche viewpoint area / hotel grounds is small or free. Spend the afternoon exploring the Saturday market area (if your timing works), the Sherpa museum and the bakeries. Do not push higher — this day is what keeps you well at Base Camp.

🚌On foot, 3–4 hrs round trip

🛏Namche tea house (~£6–8)

• →Hike to Everest View Hotel / Syangboche
• →Namche village and Sherpa museum
• →Acclimatisation rest

4–5 hours along a spectacular high traverse above the Dudh Koshi, then down to Phunki Tenga and up through pine forest to Tengboche (3,860m). Tengboche Monastery is the largest in the Khumbu — entry is about NPR 300 (~£1.80) and afternoon prayer ceremonies are usually open to visitors (check times at the gate). Stay in a tea house in Tengboche or the slightly warmer Deboche 20 minutes below.

🚌On foot, 4–5 hrs

🛏Tengboche/Deboche tea house (~£6–8)

• →Tengboche Monastery visit and prayer ceremony
• →Dudh Koshi valley views

5–6 hours through Pangboche village (one of the oldest in the Khumbu) and past the mountain river crossing, then gently up onto the open Imja Valley to Dingboche (4,410m). Dingboche is cold and exposed — expect to pay a little more for rooms and food here (tea houses often charge for charging devices, ~NPR 200–500). Hydrate, nap, and prepare for the acclimatisation day tomorrow.

🚌On foot, 5–6 hrs

🛏Dingboche tea house (~£7–9)

• →Pangboche village
• →Imja Valley views of Ama Dablam

Hike up Nangkartshang Hill (5,083m) — 3–4 hours round trip with huge views of Makalu, Island Peak and Ama Dablam. It's the best-value acclimatisation hike on the route and free to do. Come down for lunch and rest. If you're feeling the altitude, this is the day to speak up to your guide about slowing down.

🚌On foot, 3–4 hrs round trip

🛏Dingboche tea house (~£7–9)

• →Nangkartshang Hill hike (5,083m)
• →Rest and hydration

4–5 hours over the Thukla Pass moraine, passing the memorial chortens for climbers lost on Everest, then on to Lobuche (4,940m). Short day by distance but cold and slow at this altitude. Lobuche tea houses are basic and expensive — bring cash (NPR), expect ~£10–12 for a room and simple meals at 5,000m.

🚌On foot, 4–5 hrs

🛏Lobuche tea house (~£9–12)

• →Thukla memorial chortens
• →Khumbu Glacier views

The big day. Walk 2–3 hours to Gorak Shep (5,164m), drop bags, then continue 3 hours each way along the Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp (5,364m). Take a photo at the marker and the icefall viewpoint — you can't step onto the glacier itself. This is a 7–8 hour day; start early, go slowly. Stay in Gorak Shep (very basic, ~£12–15 for a room). Bring a headtorch and your warmest layers.

🚌On foot, 7–8 hrs total

🛏Gorak Shep tea house (~£12–15)

• →Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m)
• →Khumbu Icefall viewpoint
• →Photo at the EBC marker

Up at 4am for the 2-hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545m) for sunrise over Everest — the single best view of the trek, and free. Back to Gorak Shep for breakfast, then descend 4–5 hours to Pheriche (4,270m). The descent feels euphoric; watch your footing on the moraine. Pheriche has a small Himalayan Rescue Association clinic if you have any altitude concerns.

🚌On foot, 6–7 hrs total

🛏Pheriche tea house (~£6–8)

• →Kala Patthar sunrise (5,545m)
• →Descend to Pheriche

A long descent 6–7 hours via the alternative high route through Khumjung village, home of the Hillary School and the Khumjung Monastery (which claims a yeti scalp — small donation entry). Continue down to Namche for a hot shower, a proper meal and maybe a celebratory beer. Rooms in Namche often drop in price once you're heading down.

🚌On foot, 6–7 hrs

🛏Namche tea house (~£6–8)

• →Khumjung village and monastery
• →Descent to Namche Bazaar

The last long walking day: 7–8 hours back down via Monjo and Phakding to Lukla (2,860m). Cash out your guide and porter here — budget tip money on top of wages (10–15% is customary). Celebrate over dal bhat and a beer in Lukla's Irish pub, and confirm tomorrow's flight. Note: flights are frequently delayed or cancelled, so keep a spare day in your Kathmandu plan.

🚌On foot, 7–8 hrs

🛏Lukla guesthouse (~£6–8)

• →Descend to Lukla
• →Tip guide and porter
• →Confirm return flight

Early morning flight back to Kathmandu (weather permitting). Afternoon free: a massage in Thamel (~£12–18 for an hour), souvenir shopping in Patan or Thamel, and a proper dinner. If your flight is cancelled, the usual fallback is a shared jeep Lukla–Salleri or Lukla–Jiri then a bus to Kathmandu — slow and bumpy, but it works.

🚌Lukla–Kathmandu flight (in return airfare); taxi from domestic terminal (~£4)

🛏Thamel guesthouse (~£12)

• →Return flight to Kathmandu
• →Thamel shopping
• →Massage/spa

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international flight. Pre-book a guesthouse taxi (~£4) or use Pathao. Allow 3 hours before departure. If you have extra time, Bhaktapur Durbar Square or Patan are excellent half-day add-ons.

🚌Airport taxi ~£4

🛏—

• →Airport transfer
• →Optional Bhaktapur or Patan day trip if time allows