Essential Nepal: Self-Launched 9-Day Adventure

Touch down at Tribhuvan International Airport and grab a pre-paid taxi from inside the terminal to Thamel — the backpacker hub of Kathmandu. Fixed rate is NPR 1,000 (~£6) during the day. Check into your hostel in Thamel and spend the afternoon exploring. Head to Swayambhunath Stupa (the 'Monkey Temple') for panoramic city views, or wander through the chaotic, colourful streets of Thamel. Tonight, join other travellers for dinner at a local dal bhat restaurant — expect to pay £2–4 for a filling meal. Budget tip: skip the Urban Adventures tour today and explore on foot — Kathmandu is very walkable from Thamel.

🚌Pre-paid airport taxi to Thamel (~£6). Walk everywhere in Thamel.

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse in Thamel, e.g. Zostel Kathmandu or Hotel Encounter Nepal (~£10–15/night)

• →Visit Swayambhunath Stupa (entry ~NPR 200 / ~£1.20)
• →Wander Thamel neighbourhood and Kathmandu Durbar Square (entry ~NPR 1,000 / ~£6 for foreigners)
• →Optional: book a Spiritual Nepal walking tour via GetYourGuide (~£35–45, cheaper than the operator's USD 59)

Rise early and catch a local tourist bus or shared jeep from Kathmandu's Machhapokhari bus stand toward Trisuli Bazaar (~3 hours, ~£4–6). Book a self-guided whitewater rafting day on the Trisuli River directly with a local rafting operator in Trisuli or pre-book online via Klook or GetYourGuide. Grade 3 rapids including Ladies Delight, Rock Garden and Snell's Nose make for an exhilarating day. Many rafting packages include a riverside camp overnight with dinner and breakfast included. Look for operators certified by the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

🚌Tourist bus or shared jeep from Kathmandu to Trisuli (~£4–6, ~3 hours)

🛏Riverside campsite or basic resort included with rafting package (~£8–12 or often included in rafting deal)

• →Whitewater rafting on Trisuli River, Grade 3 — book directly with local operators (~£25–35/person including lunch)
• →Overnight riverside camping or basic resort stay

Enjoy a final morning session on the river if your package includes it, then transfer onward to Pokhara. The most budget-friendly option is the tourist bus from Kurintar or Mugling junction to Pokhara (~4–5 hours, ~£6–8). Arrive in Pokhara in the afternoon and check into your lakeside hostel near Phewa Lake. Take a walk along the lakeside promenade to get your bearings — your leader equivalent here is a good offline map (Maps.me or Google Maps downloaded). Tonight, head to Lakeside (Baidam) for momos and dal bhat at one of dozens of cheap local restaurants.

🚌Tourist bus from Kurintar/Mugling to Pokhara (~£6–8, ~4–5 hours)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Lakeside, Pokhara, e.g. Zostel Pokhara or Base Camp Resort (~£10–15/night)

• →Explore Pokhara Lakeside (Baidam) neighbourhood on foot
• →Evening stroll along Phewa Lake promenade
• →Dinner: momos or dal bhat at a local restaurant (~£2–4)

Before heading out, ensure you have your ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, ~£22) and TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management System, ~£13) — both obtainable at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pokhara, bring a passport photo. Take a local bus or shared taxi from Pokhara to Shyauli Bazaar or Nayapul (the trek starting point, ~£2–3, 1.5 hours). Trek via Birethanti and up the stone staircase through Kimche to Ghandruk (~3.5 hours, 5.7 km, mostly uphill). Ghandruk is a stunning Gurung village with incredible Annapurna views. Book yourself into a teahouse on arrival — no reservation needed, just walk in.

🚌Local bus or shared taxi from Pokhara to Nayapul/Shyauli Bazaar (~£2–3)

🛏Local teahouse in Ghandruk (~£5–8/night for a twin room; meals extra at ~£2–4 each)

• →Obtain ACAP permit (~NPR 3,000 / ~£18) and TIMS card (~NPR 2,000 / ~£12) in Pokhara if not already done
• →Trek Nayapul/Shyauli Bazaar to Ghandruk (~3.5 hours, 5.7 km)
• →Explore Ghandruk village and Gurung Museum (small entry fee)

Wake up early for sunrise views of the Annapurna range from Ghandruk — a genuinely spectacular sight. After breakfast at your teahouse (~£2–3), set off toward Tolkha via Landruk. The trail descends to the Modi Khola river (600m below) before climbing again — a rewarding but demanding ~5 hour, 6.5 km day. The trail is well-marked and you'll pass through rhododendron forests and terraced fields. Tolkha is a quiet, off-the-beaten-path village with simple teahouses. Enjoy a hearty dinner of dal bhat and an early night.

🚌Trekking (no vehicle transport today)

🛏Local teahouse in Tolkha (~£4–7/night; meals extra)

• →Sunrise views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre from Ghandruk
• →Trek Ghandruk to Tolkha via Landruk (~5 hours, 6.5 km)
• →Photography opportunities along the Modi Khola river valley

Today's stage is the longest and most remote of the trek — approximately 6 hours and 13 km through the trail from Dhampus toward Hemjakot, surrounded by pink and purple rhododendron forests. You're unlikely to see many other trekkers on this stretch, so savour the solitude. On arrival in Hemjakot, ask locally about staying with a family — homestays are a well-established practice in this Gurung village and can typically be arranged on the spot for ~£8–12 including dinner and breakfast. The stone homes reflect traditional Himalayan architecture. Expect a warm welcome, home-cooked dal bhat, and an insight into the rural Gurung way of life.

🚌Trekking (no vehicle transport today)

🛏Community homestay in Hemjakot (~£8–12/night including dinner and breakfast)

• →Trek Tolkha to Hemjakot via Dhampus (~6 hours, 13 km)
• →Community homestay with a local Gurung family — arrange on arrival (~£8–12 including dinner)
• →Learn about traditional Himalayan stone architecture and Gurung culture

A shorter final morning of trekking — ~3 hours, 5 km downhill descent to Phedi. From Phedi, catch a local bus or shared taxi back into Pokhara (~30 mins, ~£1–2). Arrive in Pokhara in time for lunch. Spend the afternoon how you like: rent a rowing boat (doonga) on Phewa Lake for ~NPR 900 (~£5.50/hour), hike up to the Peace Pagoda (free entry, spectacular views), or visit the Tal Barahi Temple on the lake island. Tonight, celebrate the end of your trek with a lakeside dinner and maybe a well-earned beer.

🚌Trek to Phedi, then local bus or shared taxi to Pokhara (~£1–2, ~30 mins)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Lakeside, Pokhara (~£10–15/night)

• →Trek descent from Hemjakot to Phedi (~3 hours, 5 km)
• →Rent a rowboat (doonga) on Phewa Lake (~NPR 900 / ~£5.50 per hour)
• →Visit Peace Pagoda (free — hike up or take a boat across the lake)
• →Visit Tal Barahi Temple and Shree Bindhyabasini Temple (free)

An early start for the long bus ride back to Kathmandu. The tourist bus from Pokhara's Baglung Bus Park to Kathmandu takes ~7–9 hours and costs ~£7–10 — book the night before at any guesthouse or travel agency on Lakeside. Pack snacks, download a podcast, and enjoy the mountain scenery as you wind back through the hills. Arrive in Kathmandu in the evening. Check back into your Thamel guesthouse and reward yourself with a solid dinner and explore the nightlife — Thamel has plenty of rooftop bars and live music venues to celebrate your trek. Optionally, book the Rickshaw Night Explorer tour (~£30–38 self-booked vs USD 49 via operator).

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara to Kathmandu (~£7–10, book at Lakeside travel agencies)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Thamel, Kathmandu (~£10–15/night)

• →Scenic bus journey Pokhara to Kathmandu (~7–9 hours)
• →Evening explore of Thamel nightlife — try a rooftop bar or live music venue
• →Optional: rickshaw tour of Kathmandu at night via local rickshaw drivers (~£5–10 negotiated directly)

Your final morning in Nepal. If your flight allows, grab breakfast in Thamel — a classic Nepali breakfast of roti, eggs and masala chai costs just £1–2. Take one last wander through the streets or visit Boudhanath Stupa (one of the largest stupas in the world, entry ~NPR 400 / ~£2.50) if you haven't already. When it's time to head to the airport, take a pre-paid taxi from Thamel (~£6). Check out of your accommodation by 12:00 noon typically — most hostels will hold your luggage for free if your flight is later.

🚌Pre-paid taxi from Thamel to airport (~£6)

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Final breakfast in Thamel (~£1–3)
• →Optional morning visit to Boudhanath Stupa (~NPR 400 / ~£2.50 entry)
• →Pre-paid taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport (~NPR 1,000 / ~£6)