Chisapani–Nagarkot Trek (Self-Launched)

Start early — the trailhead gets hot by mid-morning. From Kathmandu's Ratna Park or Gongabu bus park take a local bus or shared jeep toward Sundarijal (roughly 1–1.5 hrs, £1–2); a private taxi is around £10–12 if you'd rather leave at 5am. In Sundarijal village buy your Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park entry permit at the checkpoint (about £8–9 for foreigners, plus a small TIMS-style fee depending on current rules — bring cash in NPR). Then follow the stone steps and dirt track up past the water-supply pipeline and through Tamang and Brahmin villages. It's a genuine climb of over 1,000 m, so pace yourself: 5–7 hours of walking to reach Chisapani (2,194 m). Note that services are basic here — rooms are simple, blankets are provided but it gets cold at night, so pack a warm layer. Dinner is dal bhat at your guesthouse.

🚌Local bus or shared jeep from Kathmandu to Sundarijal, then on foot

🛏Simple family guesthouse/teahouse in Chisapani (£10–14, shared bathroom, blankets provided)

• →Local bus Kathmandu–Sundarijal (£1–2)
• →Buy Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park permit at checkpoint (~£8–9)
• →Self-guided trek Sundarijal–Chisapani via pipeline and village trail (5–7 hrs)
• →Sunset over the valley from Chisapani ridge

Be up for sunrise around 5:30–6am — from the Chisapani ridge you get a wide Himalayan skyline on clear days. After breakfast, walk the ridge trail east to Nagarkot: roughly 6–7 hours of rolling up-and-down through rhododendron and oak forest and small settlements, with near-constant mountain views. On a clear morning you can pick out Langtang Lirung and Ganesh Himal close by, with Everest visible far to the east and Annapurna to the west. Carry at least 2 litres of water and snacks — village shops are spaced out and prices rise with altitude. Nagarkot (2,175 m) has more accommodation choice than Chisapani; book a budget guesthouse in advance in peak season (Oct–Nov, Mar–Apr) and pick one with a rooftop or east-facing room for tomorrow's sunrise.

🚌On foot; optional local jeep shortcut if weather turns

🛏Budget guesthouse in Nagarkot (£10–14, private room with hot shower usually available)

• →Sunrise from Chisapani ridge
• →Self-guided ridge trek Chisapani–Nagarkot through Shivapuri National Park (6–7 hrs)
• →Himalayan panorama: Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Everest and Annapurna on clear days
• →Sunset from Nagarkot viewpoint

Set an alarm for the Nagarkot sunrise — it's the highlight of the trek, and the viewing tower or your guesthouse roof both work. After breakfast, walk down through terraced fields and villages to the UNESCO-listed Changu Narayan temple, the oldest Hindu temple in the Kathmandu Valley (roughly 3–4 hours, mostly downhill; entry around £1–1.50). Take your time among the 5th–6th century stone carvings and lichen-covered shrines. From Changu Narayan, catch a local bus to Bhaktapur or straight to Kathmandu (about £0.50–1, 1–1.5 hrs) — if you have time, hop off in Bhaktapur for the afternoon and its durbar square. Back in Kathmandu by late afternoon, leaving the evening free.

🚌On foot, then local bus via Bhaktapur to Kathmandu

🛏Own arrangements in Kathmandu (not included — dorm/guesthouse from £8–15)

• →Nagarkot sunrise over the Himalaya
• →Downhill walk Nagarkot–Changu Narayan (3–4 hrs)
• →Changu Narayan temple visit and carvings (~£1.50 entry)
• →Local bus Changu Narayan to Kathmandu (£0.50–1)