Nepal & Bhutan Explorer — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International and take a prepaid airport taxi to Thamel or Patan (roughly NPR 800–1,200 / £5–7; ride-hailing apps Pathao and InDrive also work and cost less). Settle into a Patan or Thamel guesthouse, then walk down to Patan Durbar Square (foreigner ticket ~NPR 1,000 / £6, valid for the museum too). Skip the commercial group 'welcome meeting' — instead prep your own Bhutan e-visa application online tonight (see day 8 notes).

🚌Airport prepaid taxi ~£6

🛏Guesthouse in Patan or Thamel (private twin, ~£15)

• →Patan Durbar Square self-guided walk
• →Patan Museum
• →Thamel orientation wander

Take a local bus or Pathao ride to Bhaktapur (bus ~NPR 50; taxi ~NPR 700). Bhaktapur Durbar Square entry is ~NPR 1,800 / £10 for foreigners — go early before the crowds. Return via Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), a steep stair climb with valley views. In the late afternoon join a small-group momo-making class booked on Klook or GetYourGuide (~£15–20), which covers the Nepali dumpling demo the tour includes. Optional extra: Pashupatinath ghats (~NPR 1,000) or Boudhanath Stupa (NPR 400).

🚌Local buses/taxis ~£5

🛏Same guesthouse, Kathmandu (~£15)

• →Bhaktapur Durbar Square (NPR 1,800)
• →Swayambhunath Temple
• →Momo cooking class via Klook/GetYourGuide (~£18)

Book a tourist bus (Greenline, Swift or similar) the day before at a Thamel agency — ~£12–15, departing ~7am, 6–7 hrs, with a lunch stop. Cheaper local buses exist (~£6) but are slower and more crowded. Arrive Pokhara late afternoon, check into a Lakeside guesthouse, and take your own orientation stroll along Phewa Lake with the Annapurnas behind you. Domestic flights (~£70–90) are an option if you're short on time.

🚌Tourist bus Kathmandu–Pokhara ~£14

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Pokhara (~£16)

• →Phewa Lake sunset walk
• →Lakeside bazaar wander

Hike up to Sarangkot for sunrise (2–2.5 hrs up from Lakeside, free) or grab a shared jeep/taxi at 4:30am (~£8 split). From the viewpoint the Annapurna and Machhapuchhre skyline is the classic photo. Walk back down through villages, then spend the afternoon rowing a boat on Phewa Lake (~NPR 800/hr) or visiting the World Peace Pagoda. This replaces the tour's optional Annapurna short hike — do a longer day hike toward Australian Camp if you have the legs (guide not required but ~£25–30 for one is worthwhile solo).

🚌Shared jeep to Sarangkot ~£8

🛏Same guesthouse, Pokhara (~£16)

• →Sarangkot sunrise hike (free)
• →Phewa Lake rowboat hire ~£6
• →World Peace Pagoda walk

Take a local bus or shared jeep from Pokhara to Tandi/Narayangarh then on to the Chitwan buffer zone (~£8–10, 5–6 hrs). Book a Tharu community homestay directly — the Community Homestay Network lists Barauli Community Homestays; book via communityhomestay.com or call ahead, ~£18–22 including dinner and breakfast. Afternoon cycle through Tharu villages and farmland with a homestay host (~£4 bike hire). Evening traditional Tharu meal in the family dining area.

🚌Local bus/shared jeep Pokhara–Chitwan ~£9

🛏Tharu community homestay, Barauli (~£20 incl. meals)

• →Village cycling with host
• →Tharu cultural evening / stick dance

Book a shared 4x4 safari inside Chitwan National Park directly through your homestay or the park gate office (~£30–40 per person shared, plus NPR 2,000 park entry and guide fee). Morning safaris see rhino, deer, monkeys and if you're lucky a sloth bear — tiger sightings are rare. Afternoon: canoe trip on the Rapti (~£8), jungle walk with a licensed guide, or birdwatching around the buffer zone (500+ species).

🚌On foot / host vehicle

🛏Same homestay (~£20 incl. meals)

• →Shared 4x4 safari ~£35
• →Rapti River canoe ~£8
• →Birdwatching walk

Return by tourist bus from Sauraha/Tandi to Kathmandu (~£10–12, 5–6 hrs, book a day ahead at your homestay). Alternatively fly Bharatpur–Kathmandu (~£70) if you want the time back. Check into a Thamel guesthouse and use the evening to shop for trekking/necessities, sort your Bhutan visa status online, and confirm your Paro flight. Kantipur Village-style mid-range hotels are ~£25; a simple Thamel guesthouse is ~£12–15.

🚌Tourist bus Chitwan–Kathmandu ~£11

🛏Guesthouse, Thamel (~£14)

• →Thamel shopping
• →Garden of Dreams (NPR 400)

Fly Paro (Drukair or Bhutan Airlines, ~£220–280 one way — book 2–3 months out). Critical prep: apply for the Bhutan e-visa at visit.doi.gov.bt at least 2 weeks ahead and pay the Sustainable Development Fee yourself — US$100/day per person for the 6 days in-country (~£460), plus the US$40 one-off visa fee. This is the single biggest saving versus the group tour. Clearing immigration, take a shared taxi or local bus from Paro to Thimphu (~£10–15 shared; buses ~NPR/Nu 200). A licensed Bhutanese guide is legally required for sightseeing — arrange one direct with a Thimphu tour company for days 9–12 (~£35–45/day, often including driver). Evening walk in Thimphu's clock tower square.

🚌Paro–Thimphu shared taxi ~£12

🛏Guesthouse/hotel, Thimphu (~£25)

• →Paro airport arrival (one of the world's great landings)
• →Thimphu clock tower square evening walk

With your guide, cover the classic Thimphu circuit in one day: Buddha Dordenma at Kuensel Phodrang, the National Memorial Chorten (free), Motithang Takin Preserve (Nu 300), and Tashichho Dzong (free, closed after 5pm). Add the Simply Bhutan living museum (~Nu 1,000) or the Folk Heritage Museum. Lunch at a local Bhutanese eatery (~£5) — try ema datshi and red rice. If a festival (tsechu) falls in your dates, plan around it; Thimphu's is usually late September/early October.

🚌Guide's vehicle (included in guide day rate)

🛏Same guesthouse, Thimphu (~£25)

• →Buddha Dordenma
• →Memorial Chorten
• →Motithang Takin Preserve
• →Tashichho Dzong
• →Simply Bhutan museum

Drive Thimphu to Punakha (~3 hrs) over Dochula Pass (3,100m) — stop for the 108 chortens and, on a clear day, the Himalayan panorama. Descend to subtropical Punakha: walk to Chimi Lhakhang (the fertility temple, ~30 min through rice fields) and cross Bhutan's longest suspension bridge. Visit Punakha Dzong at the river confluence — go mid-morning or late afternoon for the best light. Overnight in a Punakha guesthouse or farmhouse (~£22–30).

🚌Guide's vehicle (guide day rate covers driver)

🛏Guesthouse/farmhouse, Punakha (~£26)

• →Dochula Pass & 108 chortens
• →Chimi Lhakhang walk
• →Punakha Dzong
• →Suspension bridge

Drive to Paro (~2.5 hrs). Visit the local archery ground to watch Bhutan's national sport (free — ask your guide about a try, ~Nu 500 for a session). Walk Paro town and Rinpung Dzong (Nu 300), then optional extras: Ta Dzong National Museum (Nu 300, closed Mondays), Kyichu Lhakhang (Bhutan's oldest temple, free) and Drukgyal Dzong ruins if time allows. Overnight in Paro town (~£28).

🚌Guide's vehicle

🛏Guesthouse/hotel, Paro (~£28)

• →Archery ground visit
• →Rinpung Dzong
• →Ta Dzong museum (optional)
• →Kyichu Lhakhang

The headline hike: 7 km round trip, ~6 hrs, from 2,400m to 3,100m at Taktsang Monastery. Start by 7:30am to beat the heat and crowds. The monastery entry is Nu 1,000. Bring water, layers and cash for the café at the halfway viewpoint (the classic photo spot). Note: no mules or horses are available — gaiters/hiking poles help on the descent. A licensed guide walks with you (their fee is typically included in your Bhutan guide arrangement). Rest your legs in Paro town in the afternoon; a hot-stone bath (traditional Bhutanese menchu) can be booked locally for ~Nu 1,500.

🚌Guide's vehicle to trailhead

🛏Guesthouse/hotel, Paro (~£28)

• →Tiger's Nest hike (Nu 1,000 entry)
• →Hot-stone bath (optional ~£13)

If your onward flight is later in the day, squeeze in a morning walk along the Paro Chhu or a short Bhutanese cooking/art class at a local studio (~Nu 1,000). Transfer to Paro airport for your flight out (note: several international connections only operate on certain weekdays — check Drukair/Bhutan Airlines schedules before booking). Consider routing onward via Kathmandu, Delhi, Dhaka or Bangkok depending on your ticket.

🚌Taxi to Paro airport ~£6

🛏None (departure day)

• →Paro Chhu riverside walk
• →Optional local art class