Annapurna Circuit Trek: 15-Day Self-Launched Version

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport, take a prepaid airport taxi to Thamel (about NPR 800–1,000 / £5–6; or use InDrive/Pathao for less). Get a Nepali SIM/eSIM on arrival (Ncell or NTC, ~£3–5 for data). Spend the afternoon at the Nepal Tourism Board office (Bhrikutimandap) or a reliable Thamel agency sorting your ACAP permit (~NPR 3,000 / £17) and TIMS card (~NPR 2,000 / £11) — bring passport photos and passport copies. Rent or buy gear: down jacket and sleeping bag can be hired for ~£1.50–2.50/day each; buy microspikes/crampons if travelling Nov–Mar. Evening wander of Thamel for dinner and last supplies.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5; everything else on foot

🛏Thamel hostel or budget guesthouse (dorm or simple private room, ~£8–12)

• →Buy ACAP permit and TIMS card at Nepal Tourism Board
• →Pick up Nepali SIM card
• →Hire down jacket and sleeping bag in Thamel
• →Evening walk around Thamel and Durbar Marg

Take an early tourist bus or local bus from Kathmandu's Gongabu (New Bus Park) or Machhapokhari toward Besisahar/Lamjung (about 6–7 hours, NPR 700–1,000 / £4–6 for local, ~£10–12 for tourist bus). At Besisahar, shared jeeps continue up the dirt road to Syange (~3 hours, NPR 600–900 / £4–5). The road is rough and dusty — a buff and sunglasses help. Arrive in Syange, a small riverside village on the Marsyangdi, with your first views of Annapurna II, Manaslu and Lamjung Himal. Teahouse dinner and early night.

🚌Local/tourist bus Kathmandu–Besisahar ~£5–10; shared jeep Besisahar–Syange ~£4–5

🛏Syange teahouse (basic twin room, ~£6–10 including meals discount)

• →Scenic bus ride through Trishuli valley
• →Shared jeep up the Marsyangdi valley
• →Sunset views of Annapurna II, Manaslu and Lamjung

Start trekking properly: a 5–6 hour walk on a mix of trail and jeep track past terraced farmland, waterfalls and the deep Marsyangdi gorge, passing Jagat, Chamje and Tal. Many independent trekkers jeep the duller road stretch from Syange to Jagat or Chamje (~NPR 300–500 / £2–3) to save legs and dust — your call. Dharapani (1,860m) is a checkpoint village where you show your ACAP and TIMS at the ACAP post. Water refills from taps/teahouse filters, not plastic bottles. Keep the pace easy and drink plenty of water.

🚌On foot ~5–6 hrs; optional shared jeep leg ~£2–3

🛏Dharapani teahouse (~£6–9)

• →Trek through the Marsyangdi gorge
• →Pass Jagat, Chamje and Tal villages
• →ACAP checkpoint at Dharapani

A 5–6 hour walk gaining height through forest, past the Tibetan-style village of Bagarchhap, apple orchards around Dhanaqi (great fresh apple and apple brandy stops), and on through Ratamanang and Koto into Chame (2,710m), the administrative capital of Manang district. Lamjung and Annapurna II loom directly overhead. Chame has hot springs a short walk below town on the riverbank — free and worth it. Night below-zero possible from here onward.

🚌On foot ~5–6 hrs

🛏Chame teahouse (~£7–10)

• →Bagarchhap Tibetan village
• →Dhanaqi apple orchards
• →Chame hot springs on the riverbank

A shorter, gorgeous day of 5 hours through pine and fir forest, passing Bratang and the dramatic curved rock wall of Paungda Danda (the 'sweeping rock face'), with Pisang Peak and Chulu ahead. Options: the low trail through Lower Pisang, or the higher trail via Upper Pisang with the walled gompa and better views — the high route is rough but far more scenic. Pisang (3,300m) is your first real altitude test; go slow, sleep well, skip alcohol.

🚌On foot ~5 hrs

🛏Pisang teahouse (~£7–10)

• →Paungda Danda rock wall viewpoint
• →Upper Pisang gompa (high trail option)
• →Views of Pisang and Chulu peaks

Walk 5–6 hours, ideally taking the high route over the hilltop at Ghyaru/Ngawal for panoramic valley views before dropping to Manang. Stop at Braga Monastery, home to an impressive collection of thangkas and religious artifacts (small entry donation). Manang (3,540m) is the biggest village on the trek: bakeries, a small clinic (Himalayan Rescue Association), gear shops and the free afternoon altitude talk at the HRA — go, it's genuinely useful. Surrounding peaks: Gangapurna, Annapurna II/III, Tilicho, Chulu.

🚌On foot ~5–6 hrs

🛏Manang guesthouse (~£8–12)

• →Ghyaru/Ngawal hilltop viewpoint
• →Braga Monastery
• →Himalayan Rescue Association altitude talk (free, ~3pm)

Non-negotiable rest and acclimatise day. Morning: walk up to Gangapurna Lake or the Chongkor viewpoint above the airstrip (2–3 hours, climb high sleep low). Afternoon: explore Manang's 500-odd flat-roofed stone houses, the old gompa and the yak cheese operation. Eat well, hydrate, and check the weather forecast for Thorong La with other trekkers and the HRA. This is the day that makes or breaks your pass crossing.

🚌On foot

🛏Manang guesthouse (~£8–12)

• →Gangapurna Lake hike
• →Chongkor viewpoint
• →Explore Manang old town and gompa

A short 3–4 hour day climbing gently to 4,050m — deliberately short for acclimatisation. Trail heads out past Tengi and Gunsang with wide-open views of Annapurna II, Gangapurna and Chulu. Yak Kharka is a handful of teahouses in exposed pasture; expect cold nights, yak herds and basic menus (dal bhat, garlic soup, fried rice). Bring a headtorch and warm layers for the dining room.

🚌On foot ~3–4 hrs

🛏Yak Kharka teahouse (~£7–10)

• →High-altitude pasture walk
• →Annapurna II and Gangapurna views
• →Yak spotting around the village

Three hours of steady climb through bleak, wind-scoured terrain to Thorong Phedi (4,450m). If you feel good and the weather's clear, push on another 1–1.5 hours to High Camp (4,850m) — it shortens tomorrow's pass day considerably, though sleeping higher is harder. Check the pass conditions with teahouse owners and other trekkers, set your alarm, and pre-order breakfast. Pack your day bag tonight: headtorch, crampons if icy, snacks, water, gloves, sunglasses.

🚌On foot ~3–4.5 hrs

🛏Thorong Phedi or High Camp teahouse (~£8–12)

• →Climb to Thorong Phedi
• →Optional extension to High Camp
• →Pre-pass gear check and briefing with fellow trekkers

The big one. Leave at 4–5am with a headtorch for the 4–5 hour climb to Thorong La at 5,416m — cold, slow, and utterly worth it. Watch for altitude symptoms and turn around if you feel bad; there's a rescue/checkpoint post near the top. From the pass, a long 3–4 hour descent opens onto Dhaulagiri (8,167m) before you reach the pilgrimage village of Muktinath and its famous 108 water spouts and eternal flame temple. Celebrate with a proper meal. Some independent trekkers combine this day with a jeep down to Jomsom if legs are done — that's fine too.

🚌On foot 9–11 hrs (or jeep option Muktinath–Jomsom ~£4)

🛏Muktinath guesthouse (~£8–12)

• →Sunrise ascent to Thorong La Pass 5,416m
• →Dhaulagiri views on descent
• →Muktinath temple and 108 water spouts

A transport day: shared jeeps run from Muktinath/Ranipauwa down to Jomsom (~1 hr, NPR 500–800 / £3–5), then on to Ghasa and Tatopani (~5–6 hrs total, NPR 1,500–2,500 / £9–15 depending on how full the jeep is). Break the journey at Marpha, the apple-growing village with whitewashed houses, a monastery and excellent apple pie and cider. Also passes Jomsom and the Kali Gandaki gorge — the deepest gorge in the world. Arrive Tatopani (1,190m) and soak in the riverside hot springs (small entry fee ~NPR 100–200) — the best shower of the trek.

🚌Shared jeeps Muktinath–Tatopani ~£10–15 total

🛏Tatopani guesthouse (~£7–10)

• →Marpha apple village and monastery
• →Kali Gandaki gorge scenery
• →Tatopani hot springs soak

A hard but beautiful 6–7 hour climbing day, up roughly 1,000m through terraced fields and then dense rhododendron and oak forest, crossing long suspension bridges over the Kali Gandaki tributaries. Pass Ghara and Sikhar villages, with Nilgiri South, Dhaulagiri and Tukuche peaks appearing through the trees. Ghorepani (2,860m) is a busy junction village with plenty of teahouses — book ahead in peak October/November if you can, or arrive by mid-afternoon.

🚌On foot ~6–7 hrs

🛏Ghorepani teahouse (~£7–10)

• →Rhododendron forest trek
• →Suspension bridge crossings
• →Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri South views

Up at 4.30am for the 45-minute climb to Poon Hill (3,195m) for sunrise over a 360° panorama — Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, Machhapuchhre and more on a clear morning. Back for breakfast, then a long descent through forest and the villages of Bhanthati and Ulleri (stone staircases — knees beware) to Birethanti/Nayapul. From Nayapul, shared jeep or local bus to Pokhara (~1.5 hrs, NPR 300–500 / £2–3). Check into Lakeside, eat a huge dinner, and toast yourself by Phewa Tal.

🚌On foot ~6 hrs; shared jeep/bus Nayapul–Pokhara ~£2–3

🛏Pokhara Lakeside hostel or budget guesthouse (~£8–14)

• →Poon Hill sunrise (3,195m)
• →Descent via Ulleri and Birethanti
• →Evening by Phewa Lake

Morning free for Phewa Lake — rent a rowboat (~£3/hr), walk to the World Peace Pagoda, or just have a proper coffee and a shower. Then take the tourist bus back to Kathmandu (~7–8 hrs, NPR 1,200–1,800 / £7–10; departures around 7am and 7:30am, arriving late afternoon). A Pokhara–Kathmandu flight is about £80–95 if you'd rather save the day. Evening in Thamel for a farewell momo-and-dal-bhat dinner.

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara–Kathmandu ~£7–10 (or flight ~£80–95)

🛏Thamel hostel or budget guesthouse (~£8–12)

• →Phewa Lake rowboat or World Peace Pagoda
• →Tourist bus back to Kathmandu
• →Farewell dinner in Thamel

Breakfast, last-minute souvenir shopping in Thamel (pashmina, tea, prayer flags), then a taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport — leave 3 hours before an international flight given Kathmandu traffic and airport queues.

🚌Taxi to airport ~£5

🛏None (departure day)

• →Thamel souvenir shopping
• →Airport transfer