Annapurna Base Camp Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport, grab a prepaid taxi (~NPR 800-1,000 / £5-6) to Thamel and check into a budget guesthouse. Spend the afternoon sorting logistics: pick up or confirm your ACAP permit and TIMS card at the Nepal Tourism Board office (Exhibition Road) or via the online permit portal, buy a SIM card (Ncell or Ncell/Namaste, ~£3-5), and withdraw cash — ATMs in the mountains are unreliable. Eat dal bhat on Thamel's side streets (~£3).

🚌Airport prepaid taxi ~£5-6

🛏Budget guesthouse or hostel in Thamel (dorm £6-9, private twin £14-20)

• →Thamel orientation walk
• →ACAP + TIMS permit purchase
• →SIM card setup

DIY the valley's big four using cheap local transport or a shared taxi. Start at Boudhanath stupa (entry ~NPR 400) for morning kora with pilgrims, then Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple, ~NPR 200) with valley views. After lunch, take a local bus or Pathao ride to Patan Durbar Square (~NPR 1,000) and finish at Pashupatinath (~NPR 1,000) for the evening aarti ceremony on the Bagmati ghats. Entry fees total roughly £17-18.

🚌Local buses and shared taxis ~£3-5

🛏Budget guesthouse or hostel in Thamel

• →Boudhanath stupa
• →Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
• →Patan Durbar Square
• →Pashupatinath evening aarti

Take a tourist bus from Kathmandu's Sorakhutte/Kantipath terminal to Pokhara (~7-8 hours, NPR 1,200-1,800 / £7-10) — book a seat the day before at any Thamel agency. Alternatively, a Buddha Air/Yeti flight is 25 minutes for ~£70-90 if you want to save a day. Arrive in Lakeside, sort trekking logistics (gas canisters, snacks, rental sleeping bag if needed) and watch sunset over Phewa Lake.

🚌Tourist bus Kathmandu–Pokhara ~£8

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Pokhara (private twin £12-18)

• →Scenic bus ride along the Trishuli river
• →Lakeside stroll and Phewa Lake sunset

Local bus or shared jeep from Pokhara's Baglung Bus Park to Nayapul (~1.5 hours, NPR 200-300). Show your permits at the Birethanti checkpost and start walking: the trail follows the Modi Khola through Birethanti, Sudame and Hille to Tikhedhunga (1,540m) — about 3 hours of easy walking. Overnight in a teahouse with dal bhat and a hot shower.

🚌Local bus Pokhara–Nayapul ~£2

🛏Teahouse, Tikhedhunga (included in trek package rate, ~£5-8/night incl. meals)

• →Nayapul to Tikhedhunga trek (~3 hrs)
• →ACAP checkpost at Birethanti

The big staircase day: climb the notorious 3,300 stone steps to Ulleri (2,080m), then continue through oak and rhododendron forest via Banthanti and Nangethanti to Ghorepani (2,860m). Roughly 5-6 hours. Walk at your own pace, refill water at teahouses (use purification tablets or a filter rather than buying plastic bottles), and get an early night ahead of Poon Hill.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Ghorepani

• →Ulleri stone staircase
• →Rhododendron forest walk
• →Village of Nangethanti

Headlamp on and climb 45 minutes to Poon Hill (3,210m) for sunrise over Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South and Machapuchare — the entry gate fee is included in your ACAP permit. Back to Ghorepani for breakfast, then trek the ridge through Deurali and forest to Tadapani (2,630m), around 5-6 hours with some steep ups and downs.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Tadapani

• →Poon Hill sunrise viewpoint
• →Ghorepani to Tadapani ridge trek

Descend through rhododendron forest and a couple of stream crossings to Chomrong (2,170m), the gateway to the sanctuary. About 5 hours. Settle in early — tomorrow's descent to the Chomrong Khola and climb back up is the sting in the tail. Great views of Annapurna South from the guesthouse terraces.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Chomrong

• →Tadapani to Chomrong trek
• →Annapurna South viewpoint

Walk down the long stone staircase to the Chomrong Khola suspension bridge, climb to Sinwa, then follow the Modi Khola gorge through Bamboo and Dobhan to Dovan (2,505m) or push on to Deurali (3,230m). 6-7 hours. From here the valley narrows and the teahouses get colder and pricier — bring cash and warm layers.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Dovan or Deurali

• →Chomrong Khola descent
• →Modi Khola gorge trek
• →Bamboo village stop

The big day. From Deurali, pass Hinko Cave and the avalanche debris field, cross Machapuchare Base Camp (3,700m) and continue up the moraine to Annapurna Base Camp (4,130m) — 6-7 hours. Arrive by early afternoon, drink plenty of water, and watch the sunset light on Annapurna I, Annapurna South and the fishtail of Machapuchare. Sleep at altitude, so keep it easy and layer up.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Annapurna Base Camp (basic, cold — rent an extra blanket)

• →Hinko Cave
• →Machapuchare Base Camp
• →Annapurna Base Camp sunset panorama

Catch sunrise at base camp if the weather plays ball, then descend the same trail — around 7 hours down to Bamboo (2,310m). Knees will feel it; trekking poles help. Reward yourself with a hot shower and a proper meal at the teahouse.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Bamboo

• →Sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp
• →Descent via Deurali and Dovan

A shorter 4-5 hour day: retrace the gorge to Sinwa, climb out, and continue to Jhinu Danda (1,780m). Drop your pack and walk 20 minutes down to the riverside hot springs on the Modi Khola — three natural pools, wonderful for sore legs. Small entry fee of around NPR 150-200.

🚌On foot

🛏Teahouse, Jhinu Danda

• →Bamboo to Jhinu Danda trek
• →Jhinu Danda riverside hot springs

Walk out via New Bridge and Birethanti along the Modi Khola to the road head (about 4-6 hours depending on your exit point), then catch a local bus or shared jeep from Nayapul to Pokhara (~1.5 hours, ~£2-3). Check back into a Lakeside guesthouse, eat, and beeline for a beer by Phewa Lake.

🚌Local bus/shared jeep Nayapul–Pokhara ~£3

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Pokhara (private twin £12-18)

• →Trek out via Birethanti
• →Phewa Lake evening

Morning tourist bus back to Kathmandu (~£8), or a short domestic flight if you're short on time. In the evening, celebrate with a farewell dinner — momos, Newari food and a rooftop beer in Thamel for around £8-12, which is roughly a tenth of what the group tour's farewell dinner would set you back as a share of the package.

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara–Kathmandu ~£8

🛏Budget guesthouse or hostel in Thamel

• →Scenic bus return
• →Thamel food crawl / farewell dinner

Last morning: souvenir shopping in Thamel or a walk to the Garden of Dreams, then a prepaid taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home. If your flight is late, most guesthouses will hold your bag for free and let you shower before you leave.

🚌Taxi to airport ~£5-6

🛏None (departure day)

• →Thamel shopping
• →Garden of Dreams