Montenegro & Albania Adventure — Self-Launched Balkans Loop

Land at Tivat (TIV) — the airport bus to Kotor takes ~30 min for €3-4, or a shared taxi is ~€15. Check into a hostel inside or just outside the Stari Grad walls (Old Town Hostel Kotor or similar, ~£14-18 dorm). Dubai-free afternoon: walk the 4.5 km city walls up to San Giovanni fortress if you have energy (free, ~1.5 hrs up, best late afternoon light) or just wander the marble-paved squares. In the evening do a self-guided loop of the old town: Arms Square, the Clock Tower, St Tryphon Cathedral, then eat pršut, cheese and grilled fish at a konoba by the sea (~£10-14). Montenegro uses the euro, so no currency change needed. Pick up a local SIM (One/Mtel ~€10 for 10GB) at the airport or a kiosk in town.

🚌Airport bus Tivat–Kotor €3-4, or shared taxi ~€15

🛏Hostel in Kotor Old Town (dorm or private double, budget)

• →Self-guided Kotor Old Town orientation walk
• →Kotor city walls / San Giovanni fortress hike (free, optional)

Walk to the Kotor waterfront and take a local excursion boat or water taxi across the bay to Perast and the islets of Our Lady of the Rocks (expect €15-25 return per person; boats leave from the port area through the morning — agree the return time with the skipper). Wander Perast's baroque waterfront, then head back to Kotor around midday. In the afternoon rent a sea kayak from a kiosk on the bay (~€20 for a couple of hours) or visit the Maritime Museum (€5). Book boat trips the day before in high season — July/August fills up.

🚌Local boat Kotor–Perast return €15-25

🛏Hostel in Kotor Old Town

• →Bay of Kotor boat trip to Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks
• →Perast old town stroll
• →Sea kayaking (€20) or Maritime Museum (€5)

The group tour drives this in one day; you can shortcut the lot with Montenegro's cheap intercity network. Take the morning bus Kotor–Budva (~30-40 min, €3), stash your bag at a cafe or the bus station lockers, and walk the walled Stari Grad. Then catch a bus or shared taxi Budva–Nikšić (~1h15, €5-6) and grab a taxi/minibus up to Ostrog Monastery (€10-15 each way), the white cliff-hung monastery — dress modestly (shoulders and knees). Continue by bus Nikšić–Žabljak (~2h, €6-7) arriving evening. Alternatively, if you'd rather not chain buses, a local driver for the Budva–Ostrog–Žabljak leg is ~€80-100 split between two or three travellers. Sleep in a Žabljak guesthouse or mountain hostel (~£18-22).

🚌Bus Kotor–Budva €3; bus Budva–Nikšić €5-6; taxi to Ostrog €10-15; bus Nikšić–Žabljak €6-7

🛏Guesthouse or hostel in Žabljak

• →Budva Old Town walk
• →Ostrog Monastery visit

Start early with a circular walk around Crno Jezero (Black Lake) from Žabljak — 3.5 km, ~1.5 hrs, flat and gorgeous in the morning light (free; parking-area entry ~€2 in season). Then take the midday bus Žabljak–Kolašin (~1h15, €5). From Kolašin, a local taxi or minibus to Biogradska Gora National Park entrance is ~€10-15 each way. Pay the small park fee (~€3) and walk the lakeside loop through one of Europe's last primeval forests — 3-4 hrs at an easy pace. Rent a rowboat or kayak at the lake (~€8-10) if you fancy it. Back to Kolašin for the night; guesthouses and small hotels here are ~£20-25. Eat kajmak, cicvara and mountain lamb at a local restaurant.

🚌Bus Žabljak–Kolašin €5; taxi/minibus to Biogradska Gora €10-15 each way

🛏Guesthouse in Kolašin

• →Black Lake (Crno Jezero) loop walk
• →Biogradska Gora National Park lake & forest trail
• →Optional rowboat/kayak hire €8-10

Book an off-road 4x4 day trip out of Kolašin in advance via a local operator or your guesthouse (GetYourGuide/Klook list Kolašin jeep and quad excursions; private 4x4 with driver is ~€90-130 for the vehicle — share with other travellers to bring it to ~£30-45 pp). Expect rough mountain tracks, shepherd huts, forest and views over the Sinjajevina plateau. Late afternoon take the bus or train Kolašin–Podgorica (~1h-1h30, €4-5) — the Belgrade–Bar railway through the Morača canyon is one of Europe's great train rides, so take the train if the timing works. Walk Podgorica's old town (Stara Varoš), the Ottoman clock tower and the Ribnica bridge at dusk; dinner of ćevapi and Nikšićko beer sets you back ~£10.

🚌Shared 4x4 excursion; train/bus Kolašin–Podgorica €4-5

🛏Budget hotel or hostel in Podgorica

• →4x4 off-road mountain excursion
• →Podgorica old town walk (Stara Varoš, Clock Tower, Ribnica bridge)

Bus Podgorica–Shkodër via Hani i Hotit costs ~€6-8 and takes 2-2.5 hrs (buses run through the morning; have your passport ready at the border). Drop bags at a Shkodër hostel or guesthouse (~£12-16), then take a local minibus or shared 4x4 up to Theth (the last stretch of road is rough; furgons leave from Shkodër mid-morning, ~€10-12 each way, 2-2.5 hrs — confirm the return or arrange an overnight in a Theth guesthouse if you want more time). Walk from Theth village to the 25 m Grunasi waterfall and the Lock-in Tower, through wildflower meadows under the Accursed Mountains. If you'd rather not rush, stay the night in a Theth guesthouse (~£18 with dinner) and return to Shkodër on day 7 morning. Currency: switch to Albanian lek — ATMs in Shkodër are reliable, many places take cards but cash is king in the mountains.

🚌Bus Podgorica–Shkodër €6-8; minibus Shkodër–Theth €10-12 each way

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Shkodër (or Theth guesthouse)

• →Theth National Park hike
• →Grunasi Waterfall
• →Lock-in Tower

Self-guided walking day: start at the Ottoman-era Mesi Bridge on the Kir river (a short walk or €3 taxi from the centre), then climb to Rozafa Castle for the classic panorama over Lake Shkodra (£2 entry). Down in town, hit Ebu Beker Mosque, the pedestrian Rruga Kole Idromeno for coffee, and the Site of Memory museum if it's open. Optional: the Venice Art Mask Factory (€3) if mask-making appeals. Afternoon free for a lakefront walk, a bike hire (~€5/day) or a slow lunch of tavë kosi. Book your onward transport to Krujë/Tirana at the bus station tonight.

🚌Walking, local taxi ~€3

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Shkodër

• →Mesi Bridge
• →Rozafa Castle (€2)
• →Shkodër old town & Rruga Kole Idromeno
• →Optional Venice Art Mask Factory €3

Take a furgon or bus Shkodër–Tirana and get off at Krujë (or take a direct minibus; ~2 hrs, €4-5). Krujë is a compact mountain town: the Ottoman bazaar street, the Skanderbeg Museum inside the citadel (£3-4), and the Ethnographic Museum. Two to three hours is plenty; have lunch up top with valley views. Continue to Tirana by minibus/bus (~45 min-1 hr, €2-3). Check into a hostel or budget hotel near Skanderbeg Square or Blloku (~£15-20). Evening: walk Skanderbeg Square, the Pyramid, and Blloku's bars; dinner of byrek, qoftë and raki is ~£10-12.

🚌Minibus Shkodër–Krujë €4-5; Krujë–Tirana €2-3

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in central Tirana

• →Krujë bazaar & citadel
• →Skanderbeg Museum (€3-4)
• →Tirana evening orientation walk

Morning bus or train Tirana–Durrës (30-50 min, €1-2). The Roman amphitheatre holds up to 20,000 and sits right in the modern town — entry is a couple of euros; combine it with the Byzantine walls and the seafront promenade and archaeological museum. Then continue south: bus Durrës–Vlorë is ~2-2.5 hrs, €4-5 (furgons from the bus terminal). Check into a guesthouse near the old town or the beach (~£15-18). Late afternoon walk the old town to the Muradie Mosque and Independence Square, then find a waterfront spot for sunset over the Adriatic with grilled sea bream and a glass of Shesh i Zi.

🚌Bus/train Tirana–Durrës €1-2; bus Durrës–Vlorë €4-5

🛏Guesthouse in Vlorë

• →Durrës Roman amphitheatre & old town
• →Vlorë old town walk, Muradie Mosque
• →Sunset on the promenade

Arrange this locally: ask your guesthouse or a Vlorë tour operator (small-group shepherd hikes and Tragjas village walks are listed on GetYourGuide/Viator for ~£35-50 pp including transport and lunch). The route starts from Tragjas village, climbs through scrub and olive terraces to a shepherd outpost in the Ceraunian foothills, where the family shares mountain life — qumesht i gjize, cheese, homemade bread and raki — before walking back down. If you're doing it fully independently, take a local bus or taxi to Tragjas (~€8-10), follow the marked trail, and arrange return pickup with the driver. Afternoon free to swim at Plazhi i Vjetër or just nap. Bring water, sun hat and proper shoes.

🚌Taxi/bus to Tragjas €8-10 each way, or included in guided hike

🛏Guesthouse in Vlorë

• →Shepherd outpost hike from Tragjas with typical mountain lunch

This is the one day where public transport gets awkward — the Riviera buses (Vlorë–Sarandë furgons, ~3-3.5 hrs total, €6-8 with a change at Himarë or Dhermi) run but leave you little time to stop. Two good options: (a) chain furgons Vlorë→Himarë (stop for a swim and lunch, €4) → Sarandë (€3-4), then local bus to Ksamil/Butrint (€1-2) before an evening bus Sarandë–Gjirokastër (€4, ~1h15, or €25-30 by shared taxi); or (b) hire a driver for the day (€90-120 for the car, shareable) to stop at Himarë, Ksamil's Ali Pasha castle (€3) and UNESCO-listed Butrint (€10 entry, 2 hrs) in comfort. Arrive Gjirokastër in the evening; a stone-house guesthouse in the old town is ~£18-22.

🚌Furgons Vlorë–Himarë–Sarandë €6-8; local bus to Butrint €1-2; bus Sarandë–Gjirokastër €4 (or day-driver €90-120 shared)

🛏Guesthouse in Gjirokastër old town

• →Himarë beach stop
• →Ali Pasha Castle, Ksamil (€3)
• →Butrint National Archaeological Park (€10)

Morning walking loop of the old town: the obelisk, the stepped bazaar streets, Skenduli and Zekate houses (small entry fees, €2-3 each) and Gjirokastër Castle (€3-4) with its captured artillery and valley views. Free time for lunch (try qifqi and byrek) and a coffee in the bazaar. In the afternoon, book a winery visit direct — local estates outside town (e.g. the Çobo or Kardashi family wineries) offer tours and tastings with a light dinner for ~£15-22 pp; your guesthouse can arrange a taxi there and back (~€10-15 each way), or join a small-group wine tour. Back in town, end with a nightcap in the old town.

🚌Walking; taxi to winery €10-15 each way

🛏Guesthouse in Gjirokastër old town

• →Gjirokastër Castle (€3-4)
• →Old town & Skenduli/Zekate houses
• →Local winery tour and tasting with light dinner (~£18)

Bus Gjirokastër–Berat takes 2.5-3 hrs (€5-6, usually via Tepelenë or with a change in Fier — check timetables at the bus station the day before). Berat's UNESCO-listed Mangalem and Gorica quarters are best on foot: climb to Berat Castle (free to enter the grounds; the Onufri Museum inside is ~€3), walk the Ottoman houses, cross the Gorica Bridge for the classic view back at the white-windowed houses. Stay in a restored stone guesthouse in Mangalem (~£18-22) and eat at a family restaurant with a view — tavë kosi and stuffed peppers, ~£10-12.

🚌Bus Gjirokastër–Berat €5-6

🛏Stone guesthouse in Mangalem, Berat

• →Berat Castle and Onufri Museum (€3)
• →Mangalem & Gorica old quarters walk
• →Gorica Bridge viewpoint

Early bus Berat–Tirana (~2-2.5 hrs, €4-5), arriving at the regional bus terminal north of the centre — a local city bus or taxi (€3-5) gets you to Skanderbeg Square. If your flight is later, use the time for the Bunk'Art 1 or 2 museum (£4-5) or a last coffee in Blloku. The airport bus from the centre/terminal is ~€3-4 and takes 30-40 min; do not book a flight before early afternoon so you have buffer for the Berat bus. Total travel time to the airport: ~3.5 hrs from Berat.

🚌Bus Berat–Tirana €4-5; city bus/taxi to centre €3-5; airport bus €3-4

🛏None (departure day)

• →Optional Bunk'Art museum (£4-5)
• →Skanderbeg Square