Mardi Himal Trek — 5 Days Self-Launched from Pokhara

Start early. Take a local bus from Pokhara's Baglung Bus Park towards Kande (roughly 1 hour, ~£1–1.50) or split a shared jeep/taxi from Lakeside (~£12–15 per vehicle, ~45 mins). From Kande, walk up to Australian Camp (about 1.5–2 hrs) and then on to Pothana (another 45 mins), where you show your ACAP permit and TIMS card at the checkpost. Continue through rhododendron and oak forest to Forest Camp (2,550m) — the day's total is around 5–6 hours of walking. Buy your ACAP permit (£25 / NPR 3,000) and TIMS card (£17 / NPR 2,000) at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pokhara the day before, or via the Annapurna Conservation Area online permit portal. Bring passport photos.

🚌Local bus Pokhara (Baglung Bus Park) to Kande ~£1.50; alternatively shared jeep/taxi ~£12–15 per vehicle split between trekkers

🛏Forest Camp teahouse — twin shared room, ~£5 per person (blankets provided, cold but simple)

• →Buy ACAP permit and TIMS card in Pokhara or online
• →Local bus to Kande trailhead
• →Trek Kande – Australian Camp – Pothana
• →Permit check at Pothana checkpost
• →Trek Pothana – Forest Camp through rhododendron forest

A shorter but steeper day — 4–5 hours up through mossy cloud forest with streams and waterfalls to Low Camp (2,970m), then the tree line gives way and you emerge onto open ridge at Badal Danda (3,210m) with your first full-on views of Machhapuchhre and the Annapurna range. Continue another hour or so to High Camp (3,580m). Walk slowly and drink plenty of water to help with the altitude. Teahouse food is dal bhat, fried rice, noodles and garlic soup — garlic soup is the local altitude remedy.

🚌On foot, ~4–5 hours

🛏High Camp teahouse — twin shared room, ~£5–6 per person

• →Trek Forest Camp – Low Camp – Badal Danda
• →Ridge views of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South
• →Trek Badal Danda – High Camp
• →Sunset over the Annapurna range from High Camp

Leave before dawn (around 4:30–5am) with a headtorch and warm layers — the pre-dawn walk up the ridge is the highlight, with Mardi Himal and Machhapuchhre lit up as the sun rises. It's roughly 3 hours up and 2 hours back to Base Camp at 4,500m. Watch for altitude symptoms: headache, nausea or dizziness means turn around. Bring cash — there's no ATM above Pokhara and teahouses often have no card or signal. Return to High Camp for the night, or continue down to Low Camp/Badal Danda if you feel strong and want a lower, warmer sleep.

🚌On foot, ~5 hours round trip

🛏High Camp teahouse — twin shared room, ~£5–6 per person

• →Pre-dawn ascent to Mardi Himal Base Camp
• →Sunrise views of Mardi Himal, Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South
• →Photography on the ridge
• →Descent back to High Camp

A long descent day — 6–7 hours, mostly downhill, which is harder on the knees than going up. Retrace the ridge to Low Camp, then branch down past Pothana and on to Dhampus village, a Gurung settlement with terraced fields and mountain views. Take it steady, use trekking poles if you have them, and enjoy the forest you missed on the way up. Dhampus has a handful of guesthouses, all similar quality and price.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hours

🛏Dhampus guesthouse/teahouse — twin shared room, ~£6–8 per person

• →Descend High Camp – Low Camp – Pothana
• →Trek Pothana – Dhampus through traditional Gurung village
• →Village walk in Dhampus

A short 2–3 hour descent through forest and farmland to Phedi on the Pokhara highway. From the Phedi roadside, hop on any passing local bus to Pokhara (~30 mins, under £1) or take a shared taxi (~£8–10 per vehicle). Back in Pokhara by lunchtime: Lakeside guesthouses are cheap and plentiful if you want to stay another night, and it's worth an evening wander along the lake with a cold drink after five days of dal bhat.

🚌On foot to Phedi, ~2–3 hours; local bus Phedi–Pokhara ~£1 or shared taxi ~£8–10 per vehicle

🛏None included — Pokhara guesthouse from ~£10–15 per night if you stay on

• →Trek Dhampus – Phedi
• →Local bus back to Pokhara
• →Optional evening stroll along Phewa Lake, Lakeside