Walk Japan: Kumano Kodo & Nakasendo Self-Launched

Fly into Narita or Haneda and take the Keikyu Line or Narita Express into the city (Narita Express ~£18, or the cheaper Keisei Skyliner ~£13). Base yourself in Asakusa or Taito ward, which keeps you in the same low-rise, lantern-lit neighbourhood the tour uses. After checking in, walk Senso-ji temple and the Sumida riverbank at dusk, then find an izakaya in Hoppy Street or the alleys behind Kappabashi for yakitori, sashimi and a couple of beers — budget around £20-25.

🚌Airport train to central Tokyo ~£13-18; walk or Suica card for local trains

🛏Hostel dorm or budget business hotel in Asakusa/Taito (£18-30)

• →Senso-ji temple and Nakamise street
• →Sumida River evening walk
• →Izakaya dinner in Asakusa

Replicate the tour's walking day yourself — it's an easy self-guided loop. Start at Nippori, wander the Yanaka backstreets and cemetery, follow the shopping street at Yanaka Ginza, then cut through Nezu (small shrine, old wooden shops) and finish at Ueno's Ameyoko market for cheap street food. Load a Suica or Pasmo IC card (~£10 credit covers a day) and use the Yamanote and Chiyoda lines freely. Optional: Meiji Shrine in the afternoon, or the Sumida River boat from Asakusa to Hamarikyu (~£8).

🚌IC card on metro/JR lines, roughly £6-10 for the day

🛏Hostel dorm or budget business hotel in Asakusa/Taito (£18-30)

• →Yanaka Ginza shopping street
• →Nezu Shrine
• →Ameyoko market
• →Optional Sumida River cruise (~£8)

Take the JR Chuo Line limited express from Shinjuku to Matsumoto (~2h40, covered by a JR Pass or about £28 one way) — it winds through the Kiso mountains and is a highlight in itself. Drop bags at a guesthouse near the station, then walk 20 minutes to Matsumoto Castle, the black-and-white 'Crow Castle' (£4 entry, closed Mondays). Spend the late afternoon in the Nakamachi kura storehouse district, and if you have energy, the Matsumoto City Museum of Art has a strong Yayoi Kusama collection (£4).

🚌JR Chuo Line limited express Shinjuku–Matsumoto ~£28 (or JR Pass)

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel near Matsumoto Station (£25-35)

• →Matsumoto Castle entry (~£4)
• →Nakamachi historic quarter
• →Optional Matsumoto City Museum of Art

This is the classic Nakasendo day and completely doable independently. Take the JR Shinano line to Nakatsugawa (~1h, £8), then the local Kitaena bus to Magome (~30 min, £3). Walk the 8km stone-paved trail from Magome to Tsumago over Magome Pass, with a picnic lunch bought at a convenience store (£5) — 2.5-3 hours, gentle gradients. Explore Tsumago's Edo-era post town, then bus to Nagiso station and take the JR Shinano/Chuo lines to Nagoya, connecting to a Shinkansen to Kyoto (Nagoya–Kyoto ~35 min, ~£28, or JR Pass). Check into a guesthouse near Kyoto Station.

🚌JR to Nakatsugawa ~£8, bus to Magome ~£3, JR Nagiso–Nagoya ~£10, Shinkansen Nagoya–Kyoto ~£28 (JR Pass covers all)

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel near Kyoto Station (£25-35 dorm/private)

• →Nakasendo Way Magome–Tsumago hike (8km)
• →Magome and Tsumago post towns
• →Shinkansen ride to Kyoto

Walk the eastern temple belt on foot and by bus. Start early at Kiyomizu-dera (£2.50), descend through the Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka lanes, cross into Gion, and follow the Kamo River north. Take bus 100 or 206 (£1.10 flat fare) to Ginkakuji's approach, walk the Philosopher's Path south, then visit Eikando (£4) and Nanzen-ji. Finish at Nishiki Market for street-food lunch — tamagoyaki, gyoza, fruit skewers (~£10). Evening in Pontocho's lantern-lit alley. A one-day Kyoto bus pass is ~£4.50.

🚌Kyoto city bus day pass ~£4.50 and walking

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel near Kyoto Station (£25-35)

• →Kiyomizu-dera
• →Sannenzaka/Ninenzaka lanes
• →Gion and Pontocho districts
• →Philosopher's Path and Ginkakuji
• →Eikando temple
• →Nishiki Market street food

Take the Kintetsu or JR line to Nara (~45 min, £5). Walk Nara Park with the deer, visit Todaiji with its Great Buddha (£4) and Kasuga Taisha's lantern-lined approach. In the afternoon continue by Kintetsu to Uji (~45 min, £4) and visit Byodoin's Phoenix Hall (£4.50), then do a matcha tasting with sweets at a tea house in Ujibashi-dori (~£7). Return to Kyoto on the JR Nara line (~£3.50).

🚌Kintetsu/JR Nara and Uji return ~£12.50 total

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel near Kyoto Station (£25-35)

• →Nara Park deer
• →Todaiji Temple
• →Kasuga Taisha Shrine
• →Byodoin Temple, Uji
• →Uji matcha tasting (~£7)

Take the JR Kinokuni line from Kyoto to Kii-Tanabe (~2h15, ~£28 or JR Pass), where the Tanabe Tourist Information Centre can hand you walking maps and help book luggage forwarding. Bus from Kii-Tanabe to Takijiri-Oji (~40 min, £5). Walk the short but steep opening section up to Takahara shrine (~2km, 1 hour) — the classic Kumano Kodo prologue — then descend or take a local bus back into Tanabe. Check into Yunomineso (the same ryokan the tour uses) for a tatami room, kaiseki-style dinner and communal onsen (~£70-90 half board — the one deliberate splurge).

🚌JR Kyoto–Kii-Tanabe ~£28, local bus to Takijiri-Oji ~£5, bus back ~£5

🛏Yunomineso ryokan, Tanabe — tatami room with dinner and breakfast (~£75)

• →Takijiri-Oji to Takahara trail section
• →Kumano Kodo trailhead, Hongu Taisha (as landmark)
• →Onsen bathing at the ryokan

Take the early bus from Tanabe to Takahara (£5), then walk the trail south to Chikatsuyu — about 13km, 5-6 hours, passing the ruins of the Uwada-jaya teahouse and crossing Hashiori-toge Pass with its small Gyubadoji cow statue. Buy a bento at a convenience store the night before; there's also a rest station with hot food and drinks partway. This is waymarked, signposted and easy to follow solo — no guide needed. Return to Tanabe by bus (£6). Budget a luggage forwarding service if you'd rather not carry your pack (~£12 per bag).

🚌Bus Tanabe–Takahara ~£5, bus Chikatsuyu–Tanabe ~£6, optional luggage transfer ~£12

🛏Yunomineso ryokan, Tanabe (£75 half board)

• →Takahara–Chikatsuyu trail (13km)
• →Uwada-jaya teahouse ruins
• →Hashiori-toge Pass and Gyubadoji statue

Take the bus from Tanabe up to Hosshinmon-oji (~£6), then walk the ridge-top section to Hongu Taisha — roughly 7km, 3 hours, one of the most beautiful stretches of the pilgrimage. Descend to Japan's largest torii gate at Oyunohara, then visit Hongu Taisha and the adjacent Kumano Hongu Heritage Centre (free) for context on the route. In the late afternoon, take the local bus to Kawayu Onsen (£3) for a riverside onsen where you can dig your own hot spring, then return to Tanabe (£6).

🚌Local buses Hosshinmon / Kawayu / Tanabe ~£15 total

🛏Yunomineso ryokan, Tanabe (£75 half board)

• →Hosshinmon-oji to Hongu Taisha hike (7km)
• →Oyunohara giant torii
• →Hongu Taisha and Heritage Centre
• →Kawayu Onsen riverside bath

Take the local bus from Tanabe to Shingu (~1h20, £10), then the traditional Kumano River wooden boat down to Hayatama Taisha (~£20 direct booking; it's the same operator the tour uses, bookable via the Kumano Hayatama Taisha tourism office or GetYourGuide). Visit Hayatama Taisha, then bus to Daimonzaka (£6) and climb the 267 cobbled steps up to Kumano Nachi Taisha, Japan's tallest waterfall Nachi-no-Otaki just beyond. Bus down to Kii-Katsuura (£4), check into a guesthouse, and eat at a local restaurant near the harbour.

🚌Bus Tanabe–Shingu ~£10, buses to Daimonzaka and Kii-Katsuura ~£10

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel in Kii-Katsuura (£25-35)

• →Kumano River boat ride (~£20)
• →Hayatama Taisha shrine
• →Daimonzaka cobbled stairway
• →Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi-no-Otaki waterfall

Get up for Kii-Katsuura's morning fish market (free to wander, arrive by 7am for tuna auctions) and the harbour. Then take the JR Kinokuni limited express up to Osaka (~3h30, ~£30 or JR Pass). Base yourself near Shin-Osaka or in Namba for evening street food — takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu, and a wander through Dotonbori's neon and Namba's covered arcades. Budget £20 for a proper food crawl.

🚌JR limited express Kii-Katsuura–Osaka ~£30 (JR Pass covers)

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Osaka (£20-30)

• →Kii-Katsuura fish market
• →JR coastal train ride
• →Dotonbori and Namba food crawl

Use the morning for the Instant Ramen Museum in Ikeda (~£2 plus £2 for a custom cup, 30 min by Hankyu line) or Kuromon Market and Osaka Castle. If you're flying out, Kansai Airport is 50 minutes from Namba by Nankai Rapi:t (~£10) or the cheaper airport express (~£6).

🚌Hankyu to Ikeda ~£3; Nankai to Kansai Airport ~£6-10

🛏Departure day (no accommodation)

• →Instant Ramen Museum, Ikeda
• →Optional Osaka Castle or Kuromon Market
• →Namba arcades