The Ultimate Self-Launched Adventure Through Japan: 12 Days

Arrive at Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT) airport and make your own way into central Tokyo. From Haneda, take the Tokyo Monorail or Keikyu Line (~£4, 30 min). From Narita, take the Narita Express (~£25, 60 min) or the cheaper Airport Limousine Bus (~£13). Check into your hostel or budget hotel in a lively neighbourhood like Shinjuku, Asakusa or Shibuya. Spend the evening wandering backstreets, popping into a cozy izakaya for yakitori and a cold Asahi, and soaking up the extraordinary energy of the world's largest city.

🚌Tokyo Monorail/Keikyu from Haneda ~£4, or Narita Express from Narita ~£25

🛏Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki Hostel or similar (Asakusa area) — from ~£18-25/night in a dorm or ~£40-55 in a private twin

• →Arrive and travel independently into central Tokyo by train or bus
• →Check into hostel or budget hotel in Shinjuku, Asakusa or Shibuya
• →Evening walk through local neighbourhood and dinner at an izakaya

Take a highway bus from Shinjuku Bus Terminal (Busta Shinjuku) to Kawaguchiko — tickets bookable in advance via Keio Expressway Bus or Klook (~£14 each way, ~2 hrs). On arrival, book a soba-making class independently via Klook or GetYourGuide (~£25-35pp), where you'll roll and cut your own buckwheat noodles and eat them for lunch. In the afternoon, hike up Mount Arakura to the famous Chureito Pagoda for that quintessential Mount Fuji framed view — free to access, about 400 stone steps. Spend the evening at your lakeside guesthouse, and ask the front desk about onsen access for tired legs.

🚌Highway bus Shinjuku → Kawaguchiko ~£14pp (Keio Expressway Bus, book ahead)

🛏Guesthouse Ichy or K's House Fujisan (Kawaguchiko) — from ~£20-30/night dorm, ~£45-60 private twin

• →Highway bus from Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko (~£14, book via Klook or Keio Bus website)
• →Soba-making class — book via Klook or GetYourGuide (~£25-35pp)
• →Hike Mount Arakura to Chureito Pagoda (free, ~45 min ascent)
• →Optional evening onsen at guesthouse or nearby public bath (~£5-8)

Start early to catch the lake at its glassiest. Book a 2-hour kayak session directly with a local rental operator on the lake shore (~£20-30pp) — several outfitters operate near the Kawaguchiko Music Forest area. Afterwards, hire a bike from one of the many rental shops near Kawaguchiko Station (~£8-12 for a full day) and cycle a 12-14 mile loop around the lake, stopping at regional parks and viewpoints wherever the scenery demands it. End the day with a proper soak at Fujisan Onsen or the guesthouse baths (~£5-8). On a clear day the Fuji views from the water and lakeside are genuinely stunning.

🚌Local by bike and on foot

🛏Guesthouse Ichy or K's House Fujisan (Kawaguchiko) — same as Day 2

• →Kayak hire on Lake Kawaguchiko (~£20-30pp, 2 hrs — book directly with lakeside operators)
• →Bike hire and cycle the lake loop (~£8-12 for the day from Kawaguchiko Station rental shops)
• →Evening onsen soak — Fujisan Onsen or Kawaguchiko Onsen (~£5-8)

Take the bus back to Shinjuku (~£14), then board the Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka or Tokyo Station to Kyoto (~£100-120 with a Japan Rail Pass, or ~£130-150 bought individually — the JR Pass covering 7-14 days is worth calculating for your full trip). Pick up a bento box at the station and eat like a local on board. Arriving in Kyoto mid-afternoon, head straight to Fushimi Inari Shrine — entry is free and you can hike the full trail of thousands of reddish-orange torii gates winding up into the forested hills. As dusk falls, take a stroll through Gion, Kyoto's atmospheric geisha district.

🚌Shinkansen Tokyo/Kawaguchiko → Kyoto ~£100-120pp (factor into JR Pass calculation)

🛏Piece Hostel Kyoto or Guesthouse Waraku-an — from ~£18-25 dorm, ~£50-70 private twin

• →Bus back to Shinjuku (~£14), then Shinkansen to Kyoto (~£100-120 with JR Pass)
• →Pick up station bento box for lunch on the train (£5-8)
• →Hike Fushimi Inari Shrine trail — free entry, allow 2-3 hrs for the full loop
• →Optional evening walk through Gion geisha district — free

Hire a bike from a Kyoto rental shop near your hostel (~£6-10/day) and ride the famous Philosopher's Path along the Kamogawa River up to Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) — entry ~£5. The zen gardens here, dotted with ponds and moss, are among Japan's finest. Continue exploring Kyoto's quieter eastern temples at your own pace: Nanzen-ji, Heian Shrine and Eikan-do are all walkable or a short cycle away. The afternoon is entirely yours — browse Nishiki Market (the 'Kitchen of Kyoto'), slip into a backstreet kissaten (old-school coffee shop), or tick off a few more of the city's 1,600+ temples and shrines.

🚌By bike and on foot around Kyoto

🛏Piece Hostel Kyoto or Guesthouse Waraku-an (same as Day 4)

• →Bike hire from central Kyoto (~£6-10/day)
• →Ride the Philosopher's Path and visit Ginkaku-ji Silver Pavilion (~£5 entry)
• →Explore Nanzen-ji and Heian Shrine (free or minimal entry)
• →Afternoon free — Nishiki Market, backstreet cafes, or further temple-hopping

Take a local bus from central Kyoto to the mountain hamlet of Takao (JR Bus Tokai, ~£3-4) and hike the scenic gorge trail downstream through the mountains to Hozukyo — passing two magnificent thousand-year-old temples and a crystalline river. Allow around 3 hours for the 5-mile trail. Afterwards, hop on the JR Sagano Line to Arashiyama (~£2) and spend the afternoon exploring the famous bamboo grove (free), wandering zen gardens, or visiting the wild Japanese macaques at Iwatayama Monkey Park (~£5). Return to central Kyoto by local train in the evening.

🚌Local bus to Takao ~£3-4; JR Sagano Line to Arashiyama ~£2

🛏Piece Hostel Kyoto or Guesthouse Waraku-an (same as Day 4)

• →Local bus from Kyoto to Takao (~£3-4, JR Bus Tokai)
• →Hike Hozukyo Gorge trail, passing Jingo-ji and Saimyo-ji temples (~3 hrs, free to walk)
• →Train to Arashiyama (JR Sagano Line ~£2)
• →Arashiyama bamboo grove (free) and/or Iwatayama Monkey Park (~£5)

Take a local train from Kyoto to Osaka, then the Nankai Koya Line up to Koyasan (Gokurakubashi), followed by the cable car up the mountain — total journey around 2.5 hours (~£20-25 in total, covered by some JR Pass variants for part of the route). On arrival, walk or take the local bus to the start of the Koya-san Choishi Michi trail and hike the sacred forested path to the monastery complex (~4-5 hrs, ~6 miles). Explore the extraordinary Okunoin Cemetery at dusk — lantern-lit forest paths among ancient graves. Check into a shukubo (temple lodging) directly — try Ekoin or Fukuchiin (~£80-100pp half board including vegetarian shojin ryori dinner and breakfast).

🚌Nankai Koya Line + cable car from Osaka/Kyoto ~£20-25pp

🛏Ekoin or Fukuchiin Temple Lodge (shukubo), Koyasan — ~£80-100pp including dinner and breakfast (book direct via temple website or Japan-guide.com)

• →Train Kyoto → Osaka → Hashimoto → Gokurakubashi → cable car to Koyasan (~£20-25pp)
• →Hike the Koya-san Choishi Michi trail through cedar forest to the monastery complex (~4-5 hrs)
• →Explore Okunoin Cemetery (free, especially atmospheric at dusk)
• →Overnight shukubo (temple lodging) with vegetarian shojin ryori dinner — book directly with Ekoin or Fukuchiin (~£80-100pp half board)

Wake early and join the monks for morning prayers in the temple — a quietly powerful, once-in-a-lifetime experience, included with your shukubo stay. After breakfast, travel by local bus from Koyasan down to Gojo or Shingu, then onward bus to Kumano Hongu Taisha (~£20-30 in local buses, 2.5-3 hrs total — check Mie Kotsu bus timetables). Explore the sweeping shrine grounds and stand beneath the enormous Oyunohara torii gate (the largest in Japan) — free entry. Continue by local bus to Kawayu Onsen (~£5). Dig your own riverside bath in the Oto River's thermal gravel beds, an utterly unique experience. Check into a budget ryokan for the night.

🚌Local buses Koyasan → Kumano Hongu Taisha → Kawayu Onsen ~£25-35pp total

🛏Kawayu Onsen Fujiya or Minshuku Oku-Kumano — budget ryokan ~£50-80pp per night including dinner and breakfast

• →Morning prayers with Buddhist monks (included with shukubo stay)
• →Local buses from Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha (~£20-30, check Mie Kotsu timetables)
• →Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine and Oyunohara torii gate (free)
• →Onward bus to Kawayu Onsen (~£5) and dig your own riverside thermal bath in the Oto River (free)

An early start for the big one. The Kumano Kodo is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage-listed pilgrimage routes on earth and this section — from near Hongu to Koguchi — is the most rewarding stretch of the Nakahechi route. Take the morning bus to your trailhead start point. The trail climbs gradually through pristine cedar and cypress forest before an undulating ridge walk leads to the Sakura-toge Pass and Hyakken-gura Peak, with sweeping views across the sacred mountains of Wakayama. The descent delivers you into the tiny riverside village of Koguchi. The Kumano Kodo is entirely free to walk — download the Kumano Travel app or pick up the free trail map from Hongu's visitor centre. Book your Koguchi ryokan well in advance as options are very limited.

🚌Local bus to trailhead ~£5-8; on foot for the day

🛏Koguchi-no-Ie Guesthouse — the main (and nearly only) option in Koguchi; ~£55-75pp half board; book direct well in advance

• →Bus from Kawayu Onsen to Nakahechi trailhead (~£5-8, check Mie Kotsu timetables)
• →Full-day hike: Nakahechi section of the Kumano Kodo to Koguchi (~9 miles, ~6 hrs, free to walk)
• →Summit Hyakken-gura Peak for panoramic views over sacred Wakayama mountains
• →Download Kumano Travel app and collect free trail maps from Hongu Visitor Centre

The most challenging day of the entire trip — and the most rewarding. The ascent from Koguchi ('Dogiri-zaka' or the body-breaking slope) gains over 2,600ft through ancient stone-stepped trail, roots and forest over 2+ hours. Push through and the trail rewards with beautiful ridge walking, birdsong-filled forest and the distant glint of the Pacific. At Funami-toge Pass, the ocean and the fishing village of Katsuura spread out below. Descend through Nachi Kogen Park to the Nachisan Sanctuary where the Seiganto-ji Pagoda frames Japan's tallest waterfall, Nachi-no-Otaki (133m, free to view). Take the local bus down to Kii-Katsuura (~£3). Check into a hotel or ryokan with onsen — you've absolutely earned a long soak with Pacific Ocean views.

🚌On foot all day; local bus Nachi Taisha → Kii-Katsuura ~£3

🛏Hotel Nakanoshima or Katsuura Gyoen — onsen hotels ~£55-90pp; or budget guesthouse ~£30-45pp (no meals)

• →Full-day epic hike: Koguchi → Nachi Taisha via Nakahechi Kumano Kodo (~9 miles, ~8 hrs, free)
• →View Seiganto-ji Pagoda and Nachi-no-Otaki waterfall — Japan's tallest (free to view; Nachi falls viewing platform ~£3)
• →Local bus from Nachi Taisha down to Kii-Katsuura station (~£3)
• →Evening onsen at your hotel or at a local bathhouse with Pacific views

Rise early and head to Katsuura's local fish market — one of Japan's most important tuna ports — to watch the frenetic morning action before the best of the catch disappears. Then board the JR Kisei Line and Kintetsu or JR trains to Osaka (~5 hrs, ~£30-40pp — partly covered by JR Pass). The coastal scenery in the opening stages is a fitting farewell to the Kii Peninsula. Arrive into Osaka by evening and head straight to Dotonbori — the neon-blazing, takoyaki-scented heart of the city. Eat your way around the street food stalls, grab okonomiyaki at a local spot, and raise a glass to the trails and temples. This is a fitting, delicious finale.

🚌JR Kisei Line Kii-Katsuura → Osaka ~£30-40pp (~5 hrs)

🛏The Millennials Osaka or Hana Hostel Namba — from ~£20-30 dorm, ~£55-75 private twin (Namba/Dotonbori area)

• →Morning visit to Katsuura fish market (free, arrive ~6-7am for best action)
• →Train Kii-Katsuura → Osaka via JR Kisei Line (~5 hrs, ~£30-40pp)
• →Check into Osaka hostel and head to Dotonbori for street food and neon nightlife
• →Farewell street food feast: takoyaki (~£3), okonomiyaki (~£6), kushikatsu (~£5)

Enjoy a final Japanese breakfast — pick up tamago sando and a matcha latte from a convenience store or a local kissaten. Check out of your hostel and store luggage at reception if your flight is later. To reach Kansai International Airport (KIX), take the Nankai Rapi:t express train from Namba Station (~£9, 40 min) or the JR Haruka from Tennoji (~£10, 30 min). Alternatively, if you'd prefer to fly from Tokyo, the Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Tokyo takes around 2.5 hours (~£100 or JR Pass). If you have time before your flight, Osaka's Kuromon Ichiba Market, Osaka Castle (£5 entry) or Shinsekai neighbourhood all make for a memorable final morning.

🚌Nankai Rapi:t Namba → KIX ~£9 (or JR Haruka ~£10); or Shinkansen to Tokyo ~£100

🛏Check out — no accommodation needed

• →Final Japanese breakfast — convenience store or local kissaten
• →Optional morning: Kuromon Market, Osaka Castle (~£5), or Shinsekai neighbourhood
• →Nankai Rapi:t train Namba → Kansai Airport KIX (~£9, 40 min)
• →Or Shinkansen Shin-Osaka → Tokyo for Tokyo Haneda/Narita departure (~£100, 2.5 hrs)