Self-Launched Hut-to-Hut Trekking in the Italian Dolomites

Fly into Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) and make your own way to Selva di Cadore. The most budget-friendly option is the ATVO/Cortina Express bus from Venice airport to Cortina d'Ampezzo (around £15–20, book at atvo.it), then a local bus or taxi the final leg to Selva di Cadore. Alternatively, a shared taxi or pre-booked transfer via GetTransfer or Blablacar splits the ~£200 taxi cost between travellers. Check into a comfortable guesthouse or agriturismo in Selva di Cadore — options like B&B La Cion or similar local guesthouses run £50–70/night with breakfast. Spend the evening repacking your daypack to hiking-essentials only, studying your route on Komoot or CalTopo, and enjoying dinner at a local trattoria.

🚌ATVO/Cortina Express bus from Venice Airport to Cortina (~£15), then local Dolomiti Bus or shared taxi to Selva di Cadore (~£10–20). Total ~£25–35pp vs. ~£0 included in operator price.

🛏B&B or agriturismo in Selva di Cadore (e.g. B&B La Cion or similar) — ~£50–70pp/night including breakfast

• →Transfer from Venice Marco Polo Airport to Selva di Cadore via ATVO/Cortina Express bus + local bus or shared taxi (~£20–35pp)
• →Check in to a local guesthouse or agriturismo in Selva di Cadore (~£50–70/night)
• →Repack your 35–40L daypack with trail essentials for the next 3 days
• →Download Alta Via 1 & 2 GPX routes on Komoot or Gaia GPS
• →Dinner at a local trattoria in Selva di Cadore (~£15–20)

An exhilarating 15km, ~6-hour hike with 1,300m ascent and 480m descent — the same route as the guided tour, fully waymarked in red-and-white CAI markings. Set off from Selva di Cadore on dirt roads through Val Fiorentina's conifer forests and pastures to Col dei Baldi, where panoramic views of Marmolada, Pelmo and Mondeval unfold. Follow the Alta Via 1 trail markers to the Coldai Refuge (Rifugio Coldai) for lunch (~€12–15). Continue to the stunning turquoise Lake Coldai (2,172m) before the final steady climb across Civetta's dramatic western face to Rifugio Tissi. Book your dorm bed at Rifugio Tissi directly via their website (rifugiotissi.com) — dorm beds run ~£25–35pp including dinner and breakfast. The refugio is staffed, welcoming, and serves excellent mountain food.

🚌Walk from Selva di Cadore trailhead — no transport needed. Trail is fully waymarked (CAI Alta Via 1).

🛏Rifugio Tissi — dorm bed with dinner and breakfast included (~£55–70pp half-board). Book direct at rifugiotissi.com months in advance for summer.

• →Self-navigated hike: Val Fiorentina → Col dei Baldi → Alta Via 1 → Lake Coldai → Rifugio Tissi (15km, ~6hrs, 1300m up / 480m down)
• →Lunch stop at Rifugio Coldai (~£12–15)
• →Admire Lake Coldai and Civetta's 1,200m western wall
• →Check in to Rifugio Tissi dorm and enjoy included dinner

A wild and quieter 15km, ~6-hour traverse (720m up, 1,100m down) into the Moiazza range — one of the least-trekked corners of the Dolomites. Descend into Val Civetta through rocks, shrubs and green pastures, with the soaring towers of the Civetta massif as a constant backdrop. Stop at Rifugio Vazzoler for a mid-morning coffee or refreshment break — the views of Torre Venezia and Torre Trieste here are jaw-dropping. Continue via Forcella Col dell'Orso (1,823m) along the flanks of Torre Trieste and Forcella del Camp before the final woodland climb to Rifugio Carestiato. Book your half-board dorm bed at Rifugio Carestiato directly via their website or email — expect ~£55–65pp including dinner and breakfast.

🚌Entirely on foot — trail is waymarked via CAI markings throughout.

🛏Rifugio Carestiato — dorm bed with dinner and breakfast half-board (~£55–65pp). Book direct by email or via their website well in advance.

• →Self-navigated hike: Rifugio Tissi → Val Civetta → Rifugio Vazzoler → Forcella Col dell'Orso → Rifugio Carestiato (15km, ~6hrs, 720m up / 1100m down)
• →Refreshment stop at Rifugio Vazzoler — coffee and views of Torre Venezia and Torre Trieste
• →Check in to Rifugio Carestiato dorm and enjoy included dinner

A varied day combining a 14km hike (~5hrs, 650m up, 1,100m down) with a short valley transfer. Descend panoramically from Rifugio Carestiato into the valley town of Agordo — a lovely Alpine village where you can grab lunch at a local bar or osteria (~£10–15) and use the ATM to stock up on cash for the remaining rifugio days. From Agordo, take a local Dolomiti Bus or a taxi (~£15–20pp) the short hop to Malga Ciapela, the gateway to Val Ombretta. Hike into the enchanting valley with the dramatic south face of Marmolada looming ahead. Stop at Malga Ombretta for their famous homemade yogurt before continuing uphill to the well-known Rifugio Onorio Falier, with its jaw-dropping views of Marmolada's south face. Book your dorm bed with half-board directly with the rifugio.

🚌Hike to Agordo then Dolomiti Bus or shared taxi to Malga Ciapela (~£15–20pp). Book Dolomiti Bus at dolomitibus.it.

🛏Rifugio Onorio Falier — dorm bed with dinner and breakfast half-board (~£55–70pp). Book direct well in advance at rifugiofalier.com.

• →Hike from Rifugio Carestiato down into Agordo (panoramic descent, ~2.5hrs)
• →Lunch and cash top-up in Agordo (~£10–15)
• →Local bus or taxi: Agordo to Malga Ciapela (~£15–20pp via Dolomiti Bus or shared taxi)
• →Hike Val Ombretta: Malga Ciapela → Malga Ombretta → Rifugio Onorio Falier (~2.5hrs, 650m up)
• →Try the famous homemade yogurt at Malga Ombretta
• →Check in to Rifugio Onorio Falier with dinner included

The longest and arguably most rewarding day: 17km, ~7hrs, 800m up and 1,100m down. From Val Ombretta, hike via Val de Franzedaz beneath the walls of Monte Fop, following a quieter variant of Alta Via 2 up to the high pass of Forcella di Forca Rossa (2,490m). Then descend the ancient Alta Via dei Pastori (High Shepherd's Way) — a centuries-old shepherds' path linking mountain huts of Val del Biois through old-growth woodland where marmots and ibex are frequently spotted. Arrive at Passo San Pellegrino and check into either Rifugio Flora Alpina or Hotel Costabella — both offer en-suite rooms, excellent restaurants, and wellness facilities (sauna, hot baths). Book directly; expect to pay ~£70–100pp for a twin/double with dinner. A well-earned soak in the sauna and a celebratory dinner toast to end an incredible trek.

🚌Entirely on foot via waymarked Alta Via 2 and Alta Via dei Pastori trails.

🛏Rifugio Flora Alpina or Hotel Costabella, Passo San Pellegrino — en-suite twin/double with dinner (~£70–100pp). Book direct well in advance.

• →Hike: Val Ombretta → Val de Franzedaz → Alta Via 2 → Forcella di Forca Rossa (2490m) → Alta Via dei Pastori → Passo San Pellegrino (17km, ~7hrs, 800m up / 1100m down)
• →Wildlife spotting: marmots and ibex in the ancient woodland of Val del Biois
• →Wellness spa / sauna at Rifugio Flora Alpina or Hotel Costabella (often included for guests, or small supplement ~£10)
• →Celebratory dinner at the hotel restaurant (~£20–30 included in half-board or à la carte)

After a final included breakfast with mountain views, it's time to head home. To reach Venice Airport from Passo San Pellegrino, your best options are: (1) pre-book a shared shuttle or private transfer via GetTransfer or a local taxi company (~£30–50pp depending on group size and provider); (2) take the Dolomiti Bus down the valley to Moena or Cavalese, then connect to Trento by bus/train and take a regional train to Venice Mestre (~3–4hrs total, ~£20–25pp but requires early start); or (3) arrange a shared taxi split across your group from the previous evening. Aim to reach the airport by 13:00–14:00 and book no flights before 16:00 to allow for mountain road travel times.

🚌Option A (easiest): Pre-booked shared shuttle via GetTransfer or local taxi (~£35–50pp). Option B (budget): Dolomiti Bus → Moena/Cavalese → Trento (bus/train) → Venice Mestre (train) → Airport (~£20–25pp, ~3.5hrs). Book dolomitibus.it.

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Final breakfast at hotel
• →Pre-booked shared transfer or Dolomiti Bus + train connection from Passo San Pellegrino to Venice Marco Polo Airport (~£25–50pp)
• →Depart Venice — recommend no flights before 16:00