Self-Launched India Encompassed: Delhi to Kochi

Fly into Indira Gandhi International Airport. Take the Delhi Metro Airport Express Line directly to central Delhi (£1.50, ~20 mins) — skip the overpriced taxis. Check into your guesthouse in Paharganj or the more characterful Lajpat Nagar area. Get your bearings, grab a thali at a local dhaba, and rest up after your flight.

🚌Delhi Metro Airport Express Line from IGI Airport to New Delhi station (~£1.50)

🛏Moustache Hostel Delhi or similar rated guesthouse in Paharganj (~£10-14/night)

• →Arrive and check in
• →Delhi Metro from airport to city centre (~£1.50)
• →Explore Paharganj bazaar on foot
• →Dinner at a local dhaba

Spend the day exploring Delhi's contrasts. Head to Old Delhi first — visit the magnificent Jama Masjid (free entry, small camera fee), then take a cycle rickshaw through the spice markets of Chandni Chowk. In the afternoon, visit the Red Fort (£1.50 entry). For a moving cultural experience similar to the tour's New Delhi Streetkids Project walk, book a Reality Tours & Travel slum/community walk independently (~£12) — a responsible, community-funded alternative. End with street food on Paranthe Wali Gali.

🚌Auto-rickshaw and cycle rickshaw within Old Delhi (~£3-5 total)

🛏Moustache Hostel Delhi or similar (~£10-14/night)

• →Jama Masjid visit (free, small camera fee)
• →Cycle rickshaw through Chandni Chowk (~£1)
• →Red Fort visit (~£1.50)
• →Reality Tours city walk or self-guided Old Delhi wander
• →Street food on Paranthe Wali Gali

Take an early morning train from Delhi to Jaipur — the Ajmer Shatabdi or Pink City Express are the most reliable options (book on IRCTC or Cleartrip, ~£7-12, ~4.5 hrs). Arrive and check into a guesthouse in the Old City. Spend the afternoon wandering the bazaars around Johari Bazaar and taking in the iconic Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) from outside — best photographed from the street. Grab a lassi from a rooftop café.

🚌Ajmer Shatabdi or Pink City Express train, Delhi to Jaipur (~£7-12, ~4.5 hrs). Book on IRCTC or Cleartrip.

🛏Zostel Jaipur or Moustache Jaipur (~£9-13/night)

• →Morning train Delhi to Jaipur (~£7-12)
• →Check into Pink City guesthouse
• →Hawa Mahal exterior and bazaar wander
• →Rooftop lassi with Pink City views

Rise early for Amber Fort (~£8 entry) — get there before 9am to beat the crowds. The fort is a stunning blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture; explore the courtyards, Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), and rampart views independently at your own pace. Back in Jaipur, consider the optional Jaipur Cycle Tour via GetYourGuide (~£15) — a great way to see the city's colourful streets. In the evening, head to the City Palace area and watch the sound and light show at Amber if timing works.

🚌Auto-rickshaw or shared jeep from Jaipur Old City to Amber Fort (~£2 each way)

🛏Zostel Jaipur or Moustache Jaipur (~£9-13/night)

• →Amber Fort visit (~£8 entry)
• →Self-guided exploration of Sheesh Mahal and ramparts
• →Optional: Jaipur Cycle Tour via GetYourGuide (~£15)
• →City Palace area and bazaar wander
• →Optional: Amber Fort sound & light show (~£4)

Today's journey takes you from Jaipur to Agra with a stop at the incredible Chand Baori stepwell at Abhaneri — one of India's most photogenic and underrated sites. Book a private taxi for the day (~£30-35 shared between fellow travellers met at your hostel, or hire solo). The 10th-century stepwell is 13 storeys deep with over 3,500 steps — genuinely jaw-dropping. Continue to Fatehpur Sikri (~£5 entry), the ghost Mughal capital and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Arrive in Agra in the evening.

🚌Private taxi Jaipur–Abhaneri–Fatehpur Sikri–Agra (~£30-35, best split with 2-3 hostel companions). Alternatively, take a Jaipur–Agra bus and arrange Abhaneri as a detour.

🛏Zostel Agra or guesthouse in Taj Ganj (~£9-13/night)

• →Chand Baori stepwell at Abhaneri (free entry)
• →Fatehpur Sikri UNESCO site visit (~£5)
• →Arrive Agra and check in near Taj Ganj

The big one. Set your alarm — the Taj Mahal at sunrise is one of the most extraordinary sights on Earth. Entry is ~£12 (buy tickets online in advance at asi.payumoney.com to skip queues). Spend at least 2-3 hours inside. In the afternoon, walk or take a tuk-tuk to Agra Fort (~£6 entry), a magnificent red sandstone and white marble fortress with views back towards the Taj. End the day at Mehtab Bagh across the river for the classic sunset view of the Taj silhouette — free and often crowd-free.

🚌Tuk-tuk within Agra (~£3-5 for the day)

🛏Zostel Agra or guesthouse in Taj Ganj (~£9-13/night)

• →Taj Mahal sunrise visit (~£12, book online in advance)
• →Self-guided Taj Mahal exploration
• →Agra Fort visit (~£6)
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset Taj view (free)

Take the Marudhar Express or Bhopal Shatabdi to Varanasi (book in advance on IRCTC, ~£10-14, ~8-10 hrs) — a long but comfortable overnight or day train through the Gangetic plains. Arrive in Varanasi (Kashi) and check into a guesthouse near the ghats. If you arrive in the evening, take a slow walk down to the ghats to witness the mesmerising Ganga Aarti ceremony — free to watch from the riverside steps, though boats for a closer view cost ~£3.

🚌Train Agra to Varanasi (~£10-14, ~8-10 hrs). Book on IRCTC or Cleartrip well in advance.

🛏Stops at Ganges Hostel or Moustache Varanasi (~£9-12/night)

• →Morning train Agra to Varanasi (~£10-14)
• →Check in near the ghats
• →Evening Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat (free from steps, ~£3 by boat)

Wake before dawn for a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges — negotiate directly with boatmen at the ghats (~£4-6 per person) for an hour on the river as pilgrims bathe, prayers are offered, and the city stirs. Walk the ghat path from Assi Ghat to Manikarnika (the main cremation ghat) — one of India's most visceral and humbling experiences. Book an evening Ganges candle and flower ceremony boat tour directly at the ghats or via GetYourGuide (~£5-8). Spend the afternoon exploring the old city's silk weaving workshops.

🚌Walking along ghats; tuk-tuk for wider city (~£2-3)

🛏Stops at Ganges Hostel or Moustache Varanasi (~£9-12/night)

• →Pre-dawn sunrise boat ride on the Ganges (~£4-6, negotiate at ghats)
• →Ghat walk from Assi to Manikarnika
• →Old city and silk workshop exploration
• →Evening Ganges candle and flower ceremony (~£5-8 via GetYourGuide or direct)

Take a tuk-tuk (£2 each way) to Sarnath, just 10km from Varanasi — the place where Buddha gave his first sermon after achieving enlightenment. Visit the Dhamek Stupa, the Sarnath Museum (£1 entry, one of India's best archaeological collections), and the ruins of the ancient deer park. A local guide can be arranged on-site (~£8-12) for rich historical context. Return to Varanasi for a final wander through the narrow lanes and a farewell chai.

🚌Tuk-tuk Varanasi to Sarnath and back (~£4 total)

🛏Stops at Ganges Hostel or Moustache Varanasi (~£9-12/night)

• →Tuk-tuk to Sarnath (~£2 each way)
• →Dhamek Stupa and Buddhist ruins visit
• →Sarnath Museum (~£1)
• →Optional local guide at Sarnath (~£8-12)
• →Return to Varanasi for farewell chai

Take the Mahamana Express or Bundelkhand Sapta Kranti Express to Khajuraho (book on IRCTC, ~£8-11, ~5-6 hrs). Khajuraho's UNESCO-listed temples are famous for their extraordinary erotic sculptures and medieval Chandela architecture. Check into a guesthouse and spend the afternoon exploring the Western Group of Temples (~£6 entry) — the most impressive cluster. The temples are stunning at golden hour.

🚌Train Varanasi to Khajuraho (~£8-11, ~5-6 hrs). Book on IRCTC.

🛏Hostel or guesthouse near Western Temples (~£9-13/night)

• →Morning train to Khajuraho (~£8-11)
• →Western Group of Temples UNESCO visit (~£6)
• →Golden hour temple photography

Rise early for the Eastern and Southern Groups of Temples (included in previous day's ticket or small additional fee) — quieter and less visited than the Western Group. Afterwards, take a bus or shared taxi to Satna (~£5), then a train or bus onwards to Umaria, the gateway town for Bandhavgarh National Park (~£8-10 total). Book your Bandhavgarh safari in advance via the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department website — demand is high and permits sell out fast.

🚌Shared taxi/bus Khajuraho to Satna (~£5), then train/bus to Umaria (~£5-8). Total ~2-3 hrs.

🛏Budget guesthouse or lodge near Tala Gate, Bandhavgarh (~£13-18/night)

• →Eastern and Southern Temples, Khajuraho (free with previous ticket or ~£2)
• →Bus/taxi to Satna and onward to Umaria (~£8-10)
• →Check into lodge near Bandhavgarh
• →Book safari permits for following morning

Early morning jeep safari in Bandhavgarh National Park — one of India's best parks for spotting Bengal tigers (highest tiger density in India). Book a shared jeep safari directly through the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department online portal (park entry + guide ~£18-25, shared jeep ~£10-15 per seat). An afternoon safari is also possible. The park is also home to leopards, sloth bears, sambar deer and hundreds of bird species. This is the wildlife highlight of the trip.

🚌Jeep safari within park. Local auto-rickshaw for transfers to gate (~£2-3).

🛏Budget guesthouse near Tala Gate (~£13-18/night)

• →Early morning jeep safari, Bandhavgarh (~£28-40 total inc. entry, guide, jeep share)
• →Optional afternoon safari (~£28-40)
• →Wildlife spotting: Bengal tiger, leopard, sloth bear

Take a shared taxi or bus from Umaria to Jabalpur (~3 hrs, ~£6-8) — a major rail hub. From here you can catch an onward train south towards Nagpur and eventually into the Deccan and southern India. If time allows, visit the spectacular Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat, just outside Jabalpur (~£3 boat ride through white marble gorges on the Narmada River). Overnight train south is a great money-saving option.

🚌Shared taxi to Jabalpur (~£6-8). Overnight train Jabalpur to Nagpur (~£8-12).

🛏Overnight train (sleeper berth counts as accommodation, ~£8-12)

• →Shared taxi/bus Umaria to Jabalpur (~£6-8)
• →Bhedaghat Marble Rocks boat ride (~£3)
• →Evening departure by train towards Nagpur/south

Arrive Nagpur and continue south by train to Hyderabad (Secunderabad station) — the City of Pearls (~£10-14 train, ~8 hrs). Hyderabad is a fantastic overnight stop: check into a guesthouse in the old city near Charminar. Explore the magnificent Charminar and surrounding Laad Bazaar pearl and bangle markets in the evening. Don't miss the Hyderabadi biryani — this is its spiritual home.

🚌Train Nagpur to Hyderabad (~£10-14, ~8 hrs). Auto-rickshaw within Hyderabad (~£2-4).

🛏Guesthouse near Charminar, Hyderabad (~£12-16/night)

• →Train Nagpur to Hyderabad (~£10-14)
• →Charminar visit (free exterior, ~£1 climb)
• →Laad Bazaar pearl and bangle market wander
• →Hyderabadi biryani dinner (~£3-5)

Spend the morning at Golconda Fort (~£3 entry) — the former diamond trading capital of the world and a magnificent 16th-century fortress complex. The acoustics at the entrance are famously extraordinary (a handclap at the gate can be heard at the top). In the afternoon, visit the Qutb Shahi Tombs (~£3) and Salar Jung Museum — one of Asia's largest one-person art collections (~£2). End with a walk through the vibrant Irani café culture of the old city.

🚌Auto-rickshaw or Uber/Ola within Hyderabad (~£4-6 for the day)

🛏Guesthouse near Charminar, Hyderabad (~£12-16/night)

• →Golconda Fort (~£3 entry)
• →Qutb Shahi Tombs (~£3)
• →Salar Jung Museum (~£2)
• →Old city Irani café and chai stop

Take an overnight bus or train from Hyderabad to Hospet (~£8-12, ~8-9 hrs), the gateway town for Hampi. Hampi is one of India's most extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage Sites — a vast ruined city of the Vijayanagara Empire spread across a surreal boulder landscape. Check into a guesthouse in Hampi Bazaar or the quieter Virupapura Gaddi (Hippie Island) across the river.

🚌Overnight bus or train Hyderabad to Hospet (~£8-12). Auto-rickshaw to Hampi (~£2).

🛏Guesthouse in Hampi Bazaar or Virupapura Gaddi (~£8-12/night)

• →Overnight bus or train from Hyderabad to Hospet (~£8-12)
• →Auto-rickshaw Hospet to Hampi (~£2)
• →Check in; first wander of Virupaksha Temple area

Rent a bicycle (~£2/day) or hire a moped (~£5/day) to explore Hampi's vast archaeological zone at your own pace. Must-sees include the Vittala Temple with its iconic Stone Chariot (~£5 entry), Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stables, and the Hemakuta Hill temples. Sunrise from Matanga Hill or Anjaneya Hill is a highlight not to be missed. The entire setting — ancient temples among giant boulders next to banana plantations — is unlike anywhere else in India.

🚌Bicycle (~£2/day) or moped (~£5/day) hired locally

🛏Guesthouse in Hampi Bazaar or Virupapura Gaddi (~£8-12/night)

• →Bicycle or moped rental (~£2-5/day)
• →Vittala Temple and Stone Chariot (~£5 entry)
• →Lotus Mahal and Elephant Stables
• →Hemakuta Hill temples (free)
• →Sunrise from Matanga Hill (free)

Take an early bus or train from Hospet towards Goa (~£8-12, ~5-6 hrs). Goa is a brilliant midpoint stop between Hampi and Kerala — a chance to rest on Portuguese-colonial beaches before the push south. Check into a guesthouse in Panjim (for culture) or head straight to the beaches at Palolem (south Goa, quieter) or Anjuna (north Goa, livelier). Goa is one of India's most relaxed and traveller-friendly destinations.

🚌Bus or train Hospet to Madgaon/Goa (~£8-12, ~5-6 hrs). Local bus to beach (~£1-2).

🛏Beach guesthouse or hostel in Palolem or Anjuna (~£10-16/night)

• →Bus/train Hospet to Goa (~£8-12)
• →Check in and beach time in Palolem or Anjuna
• →Explore Portuguese colonial architecture in Panjim

Spend a relaxed day in Goa. In the morning, visit a spice plantation in the hills behind Panjim (book via GetYourGuide or directly, ~£10-12 inc. lunch) — you'll walk through vanilla, pepper, nutmeg, and cardamom plants with a local guide, echoing the hill station spice exploration later in Kerala. In the afternoon, head back to the beach for sunset. Goa's seafood is exceptional and cheap — try the fish thali (~£3-5).

🚌Local bus or shared taxi to spice plantation (~£3-5). Walking on beach.

🛏Beach guesthouse or hostel (~£10-16/night)

• →Spice plantation tour (~£10-12 via GetYourGuide or direct booking)
• →Beach afternoon and sunset
• →Seafood fish thali dinner (~£3-5)

Take an overnight bus or train from Goa to Coimbatore (~£12-18, ~12 hrs), then connect by bus to Ooty (Udhagamandalam) in the Nilgiri Hills (~£3, ~2 hrs). Ooty is a classic British-era hill station at 2,240m, surrounded by tea and spice plantations — cool, green, and a world apart from the plains. Check into a guesthouse and explore the botanical gardens and tea factory.

🚌Overnight bus/train Goa to Coimbatore (~£12-18). Local bus to Ooty (~£3).

🛏Guesthouse in Ooty (~£10-14/night)

• →Overnight bus/train Goa to Coimbatore (~£12-18)
• →Bus to Ooty (~£3, ~2 hrs)
• →Ooty Botanical Gardens (£1 entry)
• →Tea factory visit and tasting (~£2-4)

Ride the UNESCO-listed Nilgiri Mountain Railway — a magnificent toy train that chugs through tea estates, eucalyptus forests and tunnels from Ooty down to Mettupalayam (~£3-5, book in advance at IRCTC). This is one of India's great rail experiences. Spend the afternoon on a self-guided walk or hired bicycle through the surrounding tea estates. Try local Toda tribal honey and homemade chocolates in the market.

🚌Nilgiri Mountain Railway Ooty to Mettupalayam (~£3-5). Bicycle hire locally (~£2).

🛏Guesthouse in Ooty (~£10-14/night)

• →Nilgiri Mountain Railway ride (~£3-5, UNESCO-listed)
• →Tea estate walk or bicycle ride (~£2 bike hire)
• →Local market: Toda honey and Ooty chocolates

Take a bus from Ooty via Coimbatore into Kerala and up to Munnar (~£8-12 total, ~5-6 hrs) — a spectacular drive through cardamom and tea-covered hillsides. Munnar is a charming hill station in Kerala's Western Ghats. Check into a tea-estate guesthouse or hostel and explore the town's spice shops and tea museum. The air here smells of cardamom — genuinely one of India's most beautiful landscapes.

🚌Bus Ooty–Coimbatore–Munnar (~£8-12, ~5-6 hrs).

🛏Tea estate guesthouse or hostel near Munnar (~£11-16/night)

• →Bus journey Ooty to Munnar (~£8-12, scenic mountain drive)
• →Tea Museum Munnar (~£3)
• →Spice market walk in Munnar town
• →Eravikulam National Park visit (optional, ~£5, home to Nilgiri tahr)

Take a bus from Munnar to Thekkady (~£4-6, ~3 hrs) — gateway to Periyar National Park and Lake. Book a KTDC (Kerala Tourism) boat ride on Periyar Lake (~£5-8) for wildlife spotting: wild elephants, gaur, sambar, and birds along the forested shores. In the evening, watch a Kalaripayattu martial arts performance in town (~£5-8 at a cultural centre). Browse the spice and pepper stalls in Thekkady market.

🚌Bus Munnar to Thekkady (~£4-6, ~3 hrs). Walking within Thekkady town.

🛏Guesthouse in Thekkady (~£10-15/night)

• →Bus Munnar to Thekkady (~£4-6)
• →Periyar Lake KTDC boat safari (~£5-8)
• →Wildlife: wild elephants, gaur, birds
• →Kalaripayattu martial arts show (~£5-8)
• →Thekkady spice market

Take a bus from Thekkady to Alleppey (~£5-8, ~4 hrs) — the gateway to Kerala's legendary backwaters. Alleppey is a maze of canals, rice paddies, coconut palms and traditional kettuvallam (rice barge) houseboats. For the houseboat experience on a budget, skip the expensive overnight houseboats (£100+) and instead book a day cruise (~£15-20 via GetYourGuide or direct at the boat jetty), or rent a cheap canoe/kayak (~£4/hr) to explore the backwater canals yourself. Stay at a canalside guesthouse.

🚌Bus Thekkady to Alleppey (~£5-8, ~4 hrs). Boat/kayak on backwaters (~£4-20).

🛏Canalside guesthouse or homestay, Alleppey (~£10-16/night)

• →Bus Thekkady to Alleppey (~£5-8)
• →Backwaters day cruise or kayak hire (~£15-20 or £4/hr)
• →Village life along the canals
• →Fresh Kerala fish curry dinner (~£3-5)

Spend a full day immersed in the backwaters. Hire a local boat to visit Kuttanad — the 'Rice Bowl of Kerala' — where paddy fields sit below sea level. Visit a coir (coconut fibre) weaving cooperative to see a traditional cottage industry. Alternatively, cycle through the backwater villages on rented bikes (~£2-3/day) — the flat, quiet lanes are perfect for slow travel. In the evening, cook a Kerala meal with a local family via a homestay or community cooking experience (~£10-15).

🚌Bicycle hire locally (~£2-3). Local boat hire (~£8-12).

🛏Canalside guesthouse or homestay, Alleppey (~£10-16/night)

• →Local boat to Kuttanad rice paddies (~£8-12)
• →Coir weaving cooperative visit (free or small donation)
• →Bicycle through backwater villages (~£2-3 hire)
• →Kerala cooking experience with local family (~£10-15)

Take the public backwater ferry from Alleppey to Kottayam (~£1.50, ~2.5 hrs) — one of Kerala's great budget travel experiences, passing through the heart of the backwaters on a public boat alongside locals, fish and coconuts. From Kottayam, travel to Kumarakom for a final night on the backwaters. Visit the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary (~£2) — a major stopover for migratory birds. This tranquil day is perfect for slow-travel reflection before the journey to Kochi.

🚌Public KSWTD backwater ferry Alleppey to Kottayam (~£1.50). Bus/auto Kottayam to Kumarakom (~£2).

🛏Guesthouse or homestay near Kumarakom (~£11-16/night)

• →Public backwater ferry Alleppey to Kottayam (~£1.50, ~2.5 hrs)
• →Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary (~£2)
• →Sunset walk along the backwater shore

Take a bus or taxi from Kumarakom/Kottayam to Kochi (~£4-8, ~1.5 hrs). Check into a guesthouse in Fort Kochi — one of India's most atmospheric and photogenic colonial quarters, with Chinese fishing nets, Dutch palaces, Jewish synagogues, and spice warehouses. Spend the afternoon exploring Fort Kochi on foot or by hired bicycle. In the evening, watch a Kathakali classical dance performance (~£8-12) — Kerala's iconic elaborate dance-drama. Toast to 28 days of India over fresh coconut water.

🚌Bus or taxi Kumarakom to Kochi (~£4-8, ~1.5 hrs). Bicycle hire in Fort Kochi (~£2).

🛏Guesthouse in Fort Kochi (~£12-18/night)

• →Bus/taxi Kumarakom to Fort Kochi (~£4-8)
• →Chinese fishing nets and harbour walk (free)
• →Fort Kochi heritage walk: Dutch Palace, Jewish Synagogue (~£2-4)
• →Kathakali dance performance (~£8-12)
• →Farewell dinner at Fort Kochi restaurant

Last morning in Kochi. Take a local ferry across to Ernakulam (£0.30) for a final browse through the Jew Town spice and antique market. The Kochi–Muziris Biennale (if timing aligns) is a world-class contemporary art event set in Fort Kochi's warehouses — free entry. Kochi International Airport is well-connected to all major cities; take a prepaid taxi (~£10) or airport bus (~£2) for your onward journey. Congratulations — you've self-launched your way across India.

🚌Local ferry to Ernakulam (~£0.30). Airport bus (~£2) or prepaid taxi (~£10) to Kochi International Airport.

🛏Check out of Fort Kochi guesthouse

• →Final morning walk in Fort Kochi
• →Ferry to Ernakulam Jew Town spice market (~£0.30)
• →Optional: Kochi-Muziris Biennale (free, if in season)
• →Transfer to Kochi International Airport (~£2-10)