Self-Launched Golden Triangle: Ranthambore Safari & Sunrise Taj Mahal

Land at Indira Gandhi International and take the Airport Express Metro (Orange line) to New Delhi station (~£1.50, 20 min) — far cheaper than a prepaid taxi (~£5-7) and avoids the tout gauntlet. Check into a Paharganj or Karol Bagh guesthouse, then do a self-guided monument day: Jama Masjid (free entry, small camera fee) and a wander through Chandni Chowk, then Humayun's Tomb and Qutub Minar. The Delhi Metro is excellent — get a tourist day card (~£2.50) and hop between stations. If you want a proper walking tour rather than self-navigating, a half-day Old Delhi food/street walk on GetYourGuide or Klook runs about £12-20. End near India Gate for sunset, and see Raj Ghat, Lotus Temple and Akshardham on a later day if time allows (Akshardham is closed Mondays).

🚌Airport Express Metro in from DEL (~£1.50); Delhi Metro day card (~£2.50)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Paharganj or Karol Bagh, private double or dorm (~£12-18)

• →Jama Masjid & Chandni Chowk wander
• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Qutub Minar
• →India Gate & Raj Path
• →Optional GetYourGuide Old Delhi walking tour (~£15)

Take a morning Gatimaan Express or Shatabdi train from Hazrat Nizamuddin to Agra Cantt (~£7-12, 1h50m) — book on IRCTC a few weeks ahead, seats sell out. Drop bags at a Taj Ganj guesthouse, then explore Agra Fort (~£6 foreigner entry) and, across the river, the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah (Baby Taj) and Sikandra (Akbar's tomb). The Taj itself is best left for tomorrow's sunrise. Use Ola/Uber or auto-rickshaws between sites (~£1-2 a hop). Buy your Taj Mahal ticket in advance online (ASI portal, ~£12-13 for foreigners, closed Fridays) to skip the queue at dawn.

🚌Nizamuddin–Agra Cantt train (~£7-12); autos/Uber in town (~£2)

🛏Guesthouse in Taj Ganj with rooftop Taj view (~£14-20)

• →Agra Fort
• →Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah
• →Sikandra (Akbar's Tomb)
• →Book Taj Mahal e-ticket online in advance

Get in the pre-dawn queue at the Taj for sunrise (~£12-13 entry online). Two to three hours is plenty, then back for breakfast and checkout. Take a train from Agra to Bharatpur Junction (~£2, 1-1.5h) and hire a cycle-rickshaw at Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary (~£2-3 for a 2-hour ride plus ~£6 foreigner park entry) — the rickshaw riders double as excellent bird guides. From Bharatpur, take a train south to Sawai Madhopur (~£2-4, 1.5-2.5h depending on service); Sawai Madhopur is the railhead for Ranthambore. Or simply take the direct Agra–Sawai Madhopur train and skip Bharatpur if timings are tight.

🚌Agra–Bharatpur train (~£2); Bharatpur–Sawai Madhopur train (~£3)

🛏Budget guesthouse near Sawai Madhopur town or Ranthambore road (~£12-18)

• →Taj Mahal sunrise entry (pre-booked)
• →Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary by cycle-rickshaw
• →Evening chai at the station for the onward train

Safari permits are the key booking — reserve online via the Rajasthan Forest Department portal (ranthambhorenationalpark.in) or through a local agent as soon as your dates open (90 days out). Gypsy safaris (6-seat, better for sightings) cost roughly £35-45 per person shared; canter (20-seat) is cheaper at ~£25-30. Book a morning slot — cooler, and best light. Zones 2-5 are the classic tiger-catcher zones, though the zone lottery assigns you. Afternoon: walk up to Ranthambore Fort (free, ~1.5h up) with sweeping park views, or rest by the lake. A second safari the next morning can be added if you're tiger-hungry; do this booking in advance too, not on arrival.

🚌Local transfer to safari gate; jeep shared with other visitors

🛏Budget guesthouse near the park (~£12-18)

• →Morning Gypsy or Canter safari (pre-booked permit)
• →Ranthambore Fort hike
• →Optional afternoon safari (~£30-40)

Catch the train or a Rajasthan Roadways/first-class bus from Sawai Madhopur to Jaipur (~£3-6, 2.5-4h). Dump bags in a Jaipur guesthouse in Bani Park or the old city, then hit the classic loop: Amber Fort (~£6 foreigner entry; the climb on foot is free, or pay for a jeep ~£3), Jaigarh Fort above it (~£4), then down via Jal Mahal for photos. In the old city: City Palace (~£8), Jantar Mantar (~£3) and Hawa Mahal (external view is free; interior ~£2-3). Buy the composite Jaipur monument ticket if you're doing several in one or two days — often better value. Skip the shopping-stop circuit entirely; the bazaars are free to browse alone.

🚌Sawai Madhopur–Jaipur train or bus (~£3-6); auto/Uber around Jaipur (~£3)

🛏Budget guesthouse/hostel in Bani Park or old city (~£14-20)

• →Amber Fort
• →Jaigarh Fort
• →Jal Mahal viewpoint
• →City Palace & Jantar Mantar
• →Hawa Mahal

Morning for the places most tours rush: Galta Ji (the Monkey Temple, free — reachable by local bus or auto ~£1-2), Birla Temple (free), and Albert Hall Museum (~£3). If you're into it, the Nahargarh sunset walk or the Jaipur stepwells are a bonus. Then take an afternoon train back to Delhi (~£5-9, 4.5-5.5h on the double-decker or Superfast) or a 5-5.5h AC bus (~£7), arriving into Delhi late afternoon/evening. From New Delhi or Hazrat Nizamuddin station, the Airport Express Metro gets you to DEL in ~20 minutes for your onward flight, or stay one more night in Delhi if your flight is early.

🚌Jaipur–Delhi train (~£5-9); Airport Express Metro to DEL (~£1.50)

🛏Optional final night in Delhi if needed (not counted below)

• →Galta Ji Monkey Temple
• →Birla Temple
• →Albert Hall Museum
• →Return train to Delhi