Trek Iceland's Laugavegur Trail: The Self-Launched Camping Edition

Fly into Keflavik International Airport (KEF) and hop on the Flybus to downtown Reykjavik — tickets cost around £20 each way and buses connect with all arriving flights. Check into your hostel in the city centre and spend the afternoon exploring Reykjavik's colourful streets, quirky cafes, Hallgrímskirkja church and the waterfront. Grab dinner at one of the many affordable spots on Laugavegur street — try Hlölla Bátar for a classic Icelandic sandwich or Sægreifinn for langoustine soup. Use the evening to double-check your kit and make sure your Laugavegur trail permit is confirmed.

🚌Flybus from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik BSÍ bus terminal (~£20 one way). Book at flybus.is

🛏Kex Hostel or Loft Hostel — both centrally located, sociable and well-regarded. Dorm beds from ~£35–45/night.

• →Flybus transfer from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik city centre (~£20)
• →Explore Hallgrímskirkja church and the Old Harbour
• →Walk Laugavegur street and browse independent shops and cafes
• →Confirm Laugavegur Trail camping permit via the FÍ website (book well in advance — permits sell out fast)

Rise early and catch the public Reykjavik Excursions or Trex highland bus from Reykjavik BSÍ terminal to Landmannalaugar — the journey takes around 4–5 hours through Iceland's spectacular interior highlands and costs roughly £50–60 each way. Note: you'll need to book your luggage transfer separately if you want your main bag carried between camps — a service offered by Trex or Icelandic Mountain Guides for around £60–80 for the full trail. Alternatively, carry a full pack yourself. Arrive at Landmannalaugar late morning, pitch your tent at the campsite (fee payable on arrival, ~£16/night) and fuel up on lunch. In the afternoon, hike up to the jaw-dropping red and orange Ljótipollur explosion crater, or ascend Bláhnúkur (the 'blue mountain') for sweeping views. End the day with a dip in the free natural geothermal river at Landmannalaugar — pure magic under the midnight sun.

🚌Trex or Reykjavik Excursions highland bus from Reykjavik BSÍ (~£55 one way). Book well in advance at trex.is or re.is

🛏Landmannalaugar Campsite — basic facilities, toilets, hot showers for a small fee (~£16/night per person).

• →Highland bus from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar via Trex or Reykjavik Excursions (~£55)
• →Warm-up hike to Ljótipollur crater (3hrs, 12km, 300m ascent)
• →Optional ascent of Bláhnúkur for panoramic views
• →Bathe in the natural geothermal river at the trailhead (free)

Today is the longest and most dramatic day of the trail — a full 8-hour, 21km hike through Iceland's most otherworldly terrain. Set off from Landmannalaugar through the dazzling multi-coloured rhyolite mountains, climbing toward the high plateau of Hrafntinnusker (where there's a mountain hut and a campsite if you want to split the day). The landscape here is dotted with steaming fumaroles, obsidian lava fields, crystal-clear lakes and expansive ice caps. From Hrafntinnusker, descend south through a series of hidden valleys at the foot of the Tindfjöll glacier with views of the vast Mýrdalsjökull ice cap. Wind up at the beautiful Lake Álftavatn, where you'll camp for the night. Cook your own dinner on a camp stove — pack lightweight meals from Reykjavik or resupply at the hut's small shop.

🚌On foot — the trail is waymarked throughout

🛏Álftavatn Campsite — next to the mountain hut, basic facilities, hot showers available (~£16/night per person).

• →Hike Landmannalaugar to Álftavatn (21km, ~8hrs, 900m ascent / 950m descent)
• →Traverse the obsidian lava fields and geothermal fumarole zone near Hrafntinnusker
• →Views of Tindfjöll and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers
• →Camp at Lake Álftavatn — one of the most scenic spots on the trail

A shorter day by distance (14km, ~5hrs) but packed with dramatic scenery. Set off through the black desert of Emstrur — a vast volcanic plain ringed by huge conical green mountains that stand in surreal contrast to the dark volcanic soil. At certain points in summer, glacial rivers cut across the trail and require wading — pack neoprene socks and sandals or neoprene shoes (beach shoes) for these crossings, as water can be cold and levels unpredictable. Work your way around the Hattafell cone and arrive at the Emstrur/Botnar campsite with views of the magnificent Mýrdalsjökull glacier filling the horizon. Cook dinner and swap trail stories with fellow independent trekkers.

🚌On foot — trail is clearly waymarked

🛏Emstrur (Botnar) Campsite — next to the FÍ mountain hut, basic facilities, cold running water, pit toilets (~£16/night per person).

• →Hike Álftavatn to Emstrur/Botnar (14km, ~5hrs, 300m ascent / 300m descent)
• →Cross the dramatic black volcanic desert of Emstrur
• →Wade glacial rivers — neoprene socks essential
• →Views of Mýrdalsjökull glacier from camp

One of the most rewarding days on the trail. Set off from Emstrur and soon reach the breathtaking canyon of the Markarfljót River, where powerful glacial water roars 200m below along a gorge decorated with sculpted basalt formations. The trail follows this immense gorge south before the landscape begins to soften and greenery returns — a welcome contrast after days of volcanic desert. Little by little, Arctic birch trees appear, birds sing, and you descend into the cheerful valley of Þórsmörk (Thor's Woods), a lush glacial valley ringed by three glaciers. Make camp at Húsadalur or Langidalur campsite in Þórsmörk and enjoy your final night sleeping out under the sky.

🚌On foot — trail is clearly waymarked

🛏Húsadalur or Langidalur Campsite in Þórsmörk — well-equipped with hot showers, toilets and a small café/shop (~£16–20/night per person).

• →Hike Emstrur to Þórsmörk (14km, ~5hrs, 500m ascent / 700m descent)
• →Walk the rim of the dramatic Markarfljót canyon
• →Descend into the lush Arctic birch forests of Þórsmörk valley
• →Explore the viewpoints above Þórsmörk overlooking three glaciers

You have two excellent options today. Option A (Recommended): Extend your adventure by hiking the spectacular Fimmvörðuháls pass from Þórsmörk to Skógar — an extra 25km trail that crosses between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, passing the new lava field from the 2010 eruption and finishing at the famous Skógafoss waterfall. From Skógar, take the Trex or Reykjavik Excursions bus back to Reykjavik (~£40). Option B: If you'd prefer to stick to the original Laugavegur finish, take the morning Trex highland bus from Þórsmörk back to Reykjavik (~£55 — note this requires a 4x4 river crossing at Þórsmörk, which only the highland buses can do). Arrive back in Reykjavik in the early evening, check back into your hostel and head out for a well-earned celebratory dinner and drink on Laugavegur street.

🚌Trex highland bus from Þórsmörk to Reykjavik (~£55) or from Skógar to Reykjavik (~£40). Book at trex.is

🛏Return to Kex Hostel or Loft Hostel in Reykjavik. Dorm beds from ~£35–45/night.

• →Option A: Hike Fimmvörðuháls pass from Þórsmörk to Skógar (25km, ~8hrs) — one of Iceland's finest ridge walks
• →Option B: Take the Trex highland bus from Þórsmörk to Reykjavik (~£55)
• →Skógafoss waterfall at the finish line (if taking Option A)
• →Celebratory dinner and drinks in Reykjavik city centre

Your final morning in the land of fire and ice. Check out of the hostel and spend any remaining time exploring Reykjavik — visit the excellent Perlan museum for a deep dive into Iceland's geology, volcanoes and Northern Lights, or take a dip at Sundhöllin, the city's beloved art-deco geothermal swimming pool (entry ~£5). When it's time to head home, grab the Flybus from one of several central Reykjavik pick-up points back to Keflavik Airport (~£20). Safe travels — you've just hiked one of the greatest trails on earth.

🚌Flybus from central Reykjavik to Keflavik Airport (~£20). Book at flybus.is

• →Visit the Perlan museum or Hallgrímskirkja church
• →Swim at Sundhöllin or Vesturbæjarlaug geothermal pool (~£5)
• →Browse the colourful streets and independent shops of Reykjavik
• →Flybus back to Keflavik Airport (~£20)