Self-Launched Laugavegur Trail: Camping Edition (Iceland)

Land at Keflavik and take the Flybus (or the cheaper Strætó bus 55, which runs a few times daily) into central Reykjavik — roughly £25-30 one way, 45-50 minutes. Check into a hostel or budget guesthouse in the 101 district (dorms from ~£30-40/night, private twin-share guesthouse rooms ~£55-70 per person). Spend the afternoon buying stove fuel (gas canisters can't fly), checking your food supplies and doing a final kit sort. Iceland's groceries are pricey — Bónus is the cheapest supermarket chain, so stock up on porridge, pasta, nuts and dried fish for the trail. In the evening walk the harbour and Hallgrímskirkja area, then eat at a cheap bakery/café or cook in the hostel kitchen.

🚌Flybus Keflavik → Reykjavik BSÍ bus terminal, ~£27 one way (book online or at the airport desk); or Strætó bus 55 for ~£12 if timings suit

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse in central Reykjavik (~£30-45 pp)

• →Self-guided wander of Reykjavik old town and harbour
• →Supermarket shop for trail food
• →Buy gas canister and check gear

Catch the scheduled highland bus from Reykjavik (BSÍ or Mjódd) to Landmannalaugar — these run daily in July and August, roughly £45-55 each way, and take 3.5-4.5 hours through the highlands (book with one of the highland bus operators like Reykjavík Excursions or Trex, in advance). Arrive around midday, pitch at the Landmannalaugar campsite (£15-20/night per person) and eat lunch. Then do the warm-up hike: up to the red-orange Ljótipollur crater (~7km, 2-3hrs) or, if you're feeling strong, the steep climb of Bláhnúkur for a full panorama of the rhyolite ridges. Finish with a soak in the natural hot river right by the campsite — free, and glorious under the midnight sun. Cook dinner at camp.

🚌Highland bus Reykjavik → Landmannalaugar, ~£50 each way, book ahead as seats sell out in peak season

🛏Landmannalaugar campsite, own tent (~£15-20 pp + small shower fee)

• →Warm-up hike to Ljótipollur crater or Bláhnúkur (~7km)
• →Swim in the Landmannalaugar thermal river
• →Camp cooking and route briefing for the trail

The big one. Start early (7-8am) from Landmannalaugar and climb steadily through the multicoloured rhyolite mountains onto the Hrafntinnusker plateau — obsidian fields, steaming fumaroles, snow patches and a vast caldera. This is the highest and most exposed section, so layer up and take it slowly. Drop your pack for the short detour to the ice cave if conditions allow. Then descend south through hidden valleys below the Tindfjöll glacier, with Mýrdalsjökull's ice cap on the horizon, to the lakeside camp at Álftavatn. Roughly 22-24km, 7-8 hours, so a proper trekking day. The Álftavatn hut has a campsite with toilets and paid hot showers (~£3-4); cook your own dinner by the lake.

🚌On foot — 22-24km, ~7-8hrs, ~900m ascent

🛏Álftavatn campsite, own tent (~£15-20 pp)

• →Full day hiking the Laugavegur Trail's high section
• →Hrafntinnusker obsidian plateau and geothermal fumaroles
• →Lakeside camping at Álftavatn

A shorter, gentler day — about 14-16km and 5 hours. Leave Álftavatn and cross the first glacial river (usually shallow enough to wade; bring neoprene socks or sandals and trekking poles). Then head across the black desert of Emstrur, passing lone conical green mountains against volcanic scree. There's a marked detour to the crater of Hattafell if you have energy. Camp at the Botnar/Emstrur campsite, a green shelf with Mýrdalsjökull glacier looming right above you — arguably the most dramatic camp on the route. Toilets and paid showers available; cook at camp.

🚌On foot — 14-16km, ~5hrs, ~300m ascent

🛏Emstrur/Botnar campsite, own tent (~£15-20 pp)

• →Glacial river crossing practice
• →Black desert hike through Emstrur
• →Optional Hattafell crater detour
• →Camp beneath Mýrdalsjökull

Pack up and head south, crossing the last of the glacial rivers before reaching the rim of the Markarfljót canyon, where the river roars 200m below you. Follow the canyon edge with its weird basalt sculptures, then watch the landscape soften into a mountain cirque of Arctic birch and birdsong as you enter Þórsmörk — Thor's Woods. About 15-17km, 5-6 hours. Camp at the Þórsmörk (Básar or Húsadalur) campsite, which has proper facilities, a small shop and hot showers — a welcome bit of comfort. If the weather's good, take the short walk up Valahnúkur for a golden-hour view over the valleys and glaciers.

🚌On foot — 15-17km, ~5-6hrs

🛏Þórsmörk campsite (Húsadalur or Básar), own tent (~£18-22 pp)

• →Markarfljót canyon rim walk
• →Arrive in Þórsmörk valley
• →Optional Valahnúkur sunset viewpoint

Choose your finish. Option A (classic Laugavegur finish): a short 6-8km morning wander in Þórsmörk's birch woods and up to a viewpoint, then take the afternoon scheduled highland bus from Þórsmörk back to Reykjavik (~£40-50, 3-4 hours, book ahead). Option B (for strong hikers): extend a day by walking the Fimmvörðuháls pass from Þórsmörk over the Eyjafjallajökull eruption site to Skógar (~22km, 8-10hrs) and take the public Strætó bus from Skógar back to Reykjavik — adds a night and ~£50. Most self-launchers take Option A on a 7-day frame. Back in Reykjavik, check into a hostel, shower properly and celebrate with an Icelandic hot dog and a beer downtown.

🚌Þórsmörk → Reykjavik highland bus, ~£45 (book ahead); local city bus within Reykjavik ~£2

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse in Reykjavik (~£30-45 pp)

• →Morning birch-wood walk in Þórsmörk
• →Highland bus back through the mountains
• →Downtown Reykjavik evening

Breakfast at the hostel or a bakery, then a last wander of the old town — or if your flight is late, a soak at a public geothermal pool (Laugardalslaug, ~£8) and a cheap lunch. Take the Flybus back to Keflavik in good time (allow 3 hours before a long-haul flight). Tidy up any remaining trail food and gas (gas must be left behind or given away — it can't be flown).

🚌Flybus Reykjavik → Keflavik, ~£27

🛏None (checkout)

• →Public geothermal pool or old town wander
• →Flybus to airport