Fagaras Ridge: Moldoveanu & Negoiu Peaks Self-Launched Trek

Fly or train into Sibiu (SBZ airport or Sibiu rail station). Check into a central hostel or guesthouse in the old town, then spend the afternoon walking Piața Mare, Piața Mică, the Bridge of Lies and the Lutheran Cathedral tower. Buy your hiking supplies here — gas canisters, snacks and a Făgăraș map — from a sports shop in town. In the evening, do your own route briefing over a ciorbă and a plate of sarmale: confirm bus times to Poiana Neamțului/Cârțișoara and phone ahead to Barcaciu hut to reserve a bed.

🚌Arrival flight/train to Sibiu; walkable old town

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Sibiu old town

• →Self-guided walk of Sibiu old town
• →Buy hiking supplies and Făgăraș map
• →Route briefing over traditional dinner

Take an early local bus from Sibiu Autogara Transmixt towards Cârțișoara/Sâmbăta de Sus and get off at the Poiana Neamțului trailhead (about 1.5 hrs, ~£3). From there it's a 3-hour marked climb through beech forest up to Cabana Barcaciu (1,450 m). Dump your pack, then optionally push on 2 more hours to the small tarn on the high plateau above the hut if the weather's clear. Dinner is simple hut food — bring cash (lei) as card machines rarely work up here.

🚌Local bus Sibiu–Poiana Neamțului (~£3)

🛏Cabana Barcaciu (shared dorm, ~£18 half board)

• →Hike Poiana Neamțului to Barcaciu (~3 hrs)
• →Optional climb to high plateau tarn (+2 hrs)

A gorgeous 4-5 hour day on red-stripe markings climbing via Șerbota (2,331 m) and the Scara peaks (2,306 m) to Cabana Negoiu (1,542 m), tucked in forest below the ridge. Carry a packed lunch from the hut — there's nothing in between. Afternoon is your rest window before the big day. Ask hut staff about water sources and the state of the chains on tomorrow's descent from Negoiu peak.

🚌On foot, marked trail

🛏Cabana Negoiu (shared dorm, ~£18 half board)

• →Hike Barcaciu – Scara peaks – Negoiu hut (~4-5 hrs)

The toughest day: 8-9 hours. Climb from Negoiu hut to the summit of Negoiu (2,535 m) — Romania's second-highest — then traverse the Custura Sărății section of chains (exposed, so only in dry weather) and pass Lake Călțun before descending to Cabana Bâlea Lac (2,034 m) on the Transfăgărășan. Book Bâlea hut in advance in summer and early autumn. If the weather turns, bail down to Bâlea via the marked Custura track rather than pushing on.

🚌On foot, marked trail

🛏Cabana Bâlea Lac (shared dorm, ~£20 half board)

• →Summit Negoiu Peak (2,535 m)
• →Chain-secured Custura Sărății traverse
• →Lake Călțun viewpoint

About 6 hours along the ridge on red-band markings: past Șaua Caprei (2,315 m), Lake Capra, and over Arpașu Mic (2,461 m) and Arpașu Mare (2,468 m), including the famous short chain passage nicknamed 'La trei pași de moarte' (Three Steps from Death). Drop to Cabana Podragu (2,137 m) beside Lake Podu Giurgiului. Reserve a bed by phone or via the cabanele Facebook groups — Podragu fills fast in July/August.

🚌On foot, marked trail

🛏Cabana Podragu (shared dorm, ~£18 half board)

• →Arpașu Mare and Arpașu Mic peaks
• →Lake Capra and Lake Podu Giurgiului

Long 7-8 hour day: climb to Viștea Mare (2,527 m), then the short sidetrack to Moldoveanu (2,544 m) — the highest point in Romania, marked by a small cross. Take a photo and move on; there's no shelter. Follow the red band down through Tărâța and Ucea Mare towards the Transfăgărășan road near Poienari/Căpățânenii. Time your arrival for a late-afternoon hitch or a lift on a passing bus down to Arefu, then a local maxitaxi to Curtea de Argeș for the night. Book a cheap guesthouse in Curtea de Argeș in advance.

🚌On foot; hitch/lift to Arefu, maxitaxi to Curtea de Argeș (~£4)

🛏Guesthouse in Curtea de Argeș (~£25)

• →Summit Moldoveanu Peak (2,544 m)
• →Viștea Mare ridge

Do the cultural loop independently. Start with the bus or a shared taxi via Arefu to Vidraru Dam (~£3), then walk or catch a lift back to Poienari Citadel and climb the 1,480 steps (entry ~£2) for views over the Argeș gorge. Return to Curtea de Argeș to see the 16th-century cathedral with its famous carved details, then a local bus to Călimănești or a stop at Cozia Monastery on the Olt valley. Evening bus back to Sibiu (~£7-9, 2.5-3 hrs).

🚌Local buses and maxitaxis via Arefu/Olt valley (~£12 total)

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Sibiu old town (~£25)

• →Vidraru Dam
• →Poienari Citadel (1,480 steps)
• →Curtea de Argeș cathedral
• →Cozia Monastery

Slow morning: coffee in the old town, a wander through the Astra folk museum if your flight is later, or a look at the Turnul Sfatului. Take the local bus (~£1) or a taxi to Sibiu airport or train station for departure. If you're continuing, Sibiu is a good base for onward buses to Brașov, Cluj-Napoca or the Via Transilvanica trail.

🚌Local bus to Sibiu airport/station (~£1)

🛏—

• →Sibiu old town morning walk