Everest Base Camp Trek — 13-Day Self-Launched Version

Book a morning Summit Air, Tara Air or Sita Air Kathmandu–Lukla flight yourself (approx. £160–190 one-way in season; ask your guesthouse in Kathmandu to confirm, or book directly at the airline counter/agent a few days ahead). Note the 10–15kg luggage limit — leave extra kit in a Kathmandu guesthouse locker. At Lukla buy your Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality permit at the entry office (approx. £20) and start walking: a gentle 3–4 hour descent through Chheplung, Ghat and the villages of Sano and Thulo Gumela, past Drangdrak Gompa and Pema Choling Gompa, to Phakding. Sleep low and cheap.

🚌Scheduled STOL flight Kathmandu–Lukla (~£160–190) + 3–4 hr walk

🛏Teahouse in Phakding (shared twin, approx. £5–8 pp; dinner+breakfast purchased together)

• →Kathmandu–Lukla flight
• →Khumbu permit at Lukla entry office
• →Trek Lukla → Phakding via Chheplung, Ghat, Drangdrak Gompa

The big day: 6–7 hours and ~800m of ascent. Cross the Hillary Suspension Bridge, pass the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo (show your permit), then grind up the endless stone staircases from Jorsale. Reward on arrival: the first full view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse from the ridge above Namche. Choose a teahouse on the upper terraces for sunrise views; Namche has the best prices and variety of the whole trek.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (approx. £6–10 pp shared)

• →Hillary Suspension Bridge
• →Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo
• →First Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse viewpoint above Namche

Hike high, sleep low: climb 45–60 minutes to the Everest View Hotel or the Sagarmatha National Park headquarters viewpoint for dawn/dusk panoramas of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kongde and Lhotse. Visit the Sherpa Culture Museum (small entry fee, approx. £2). Spend the afternoon in Namche's bakeries (German Bakery and Herman Helmers are backpacker favourites), gear shops and cafés — this is the last place to buy or rent down jackets and sleeping bags cheaply.

🚌On foot, 2–4 hrs of acclimatisation walking

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (approx. £6–10 pp shared)

• →Sunrise/sunset viewpoint hike (Everest View Hotel)
• →Sherpa Culture Museum
• →Namche bakeries, cafés and gear shops

Take the quieter high traverse to Phortse (excellent chance of glimpsing musk deer and Himalayan tahr), then drop to the Dudh Koshi and climb to Pangboche, the oldest village in the Khumbu. 6–7 hours. Optional short side trip up to Riwa Gompa at upper Pangboche, the region's oldest monastery. Teahouses here are simple and cold — pack a warm layer.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Pangboche (approx. £5–8 pp shared)

• →High trail Namche → Phortse (wildlife)
• →Optional Riwa Gompa monastery visit

A short, sensible 3–4 hour day along the Imja Khola valley, crossing yak pastures and stone-walled fields. Dingboche sits at ~4,410m, so take it easy in the afternoon, drink water and skip alcohol. Teahouse prices rise with altitude — expect £10–14 for a dorm or twin and £8–12 for dal bhat.

🚌On foot, ~3–4 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche (approx. £6–9 pp shared)

• →Trek along the Imja Khola
• →Afternoon rest/acclimatisation in Dingboche

The best acclimatisation day on the route: walk up the Imja Khola valley toward Chhukung, then ascend Chhukung Ri (~5,550m) for a huge panorama of Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Cholatse, Taboche and the Lobuche peaks. 6–7 hours return. Alternatively do the shorter Nangkartshang ridge hike if you're feeling the altitude. Back in Dingboche, explore the small settlement and bake in a teahouse stove.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche (approx. £6–9 pp shared)

• →Chhukung valley hike
• →Chhukung Ri viewpoint ascent
• →Dingboche village wander

5–6 hours over the Thukla Pass (4,830m), passing the Chola Lakes and crossing the plain of Chupki Lhara with its memorial cairns to climbers lost on Everest. Views of Khumbu Glacier, Khumbutse, Lingtren, Pumori and Taboche open up. Lodges at Lobuche (~4,910m) are basic and shared — bring earplugs and a headtorch.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Lobuche (approx. £7–10 pp shared)

• →Thukla Pass
• →Chupki Lhara memorial cairns
• →Khumbu Glacier viewpoint

Walk 2–3 hours over the Changri Glacier lateral moraine to Gorak Shep (~5,164m), dump your bag, then take the 2–3 hour return hike to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) — the Khumbu Icefall, Changtse, Lho La and the Khumbu Glacier walls are the payoff. Return to Gorak Shep for the night. If you want a guide for this section, you can hire one locally in Lobuche or Gorak Shep for roughly £25–35/day — not compulsory, but reassuring in low visibility.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hrs total

🛏Teahouse in Gorak Shep (approx. £8–12 pp, shared/simple)

• →Trek over Changri Glacier moraine to Gorak Shep
• →Everest Base Camp hike
• →Optional local guide hire in Lobuche/Gorak Shep

Leave Gorak Shep around 4:30am with a headtorch for the 2-hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545m) — the best Everest sunrise in the Khumbu, with Nuptse, Lingtren, Khumbutse and Changtse glowing. Descend via Gorak Shep, Lobuche and Dughla to Pheriche (~4,370m): a 7–8 hour day. Pheriche has a Himalayan Rescue Association clinic and a bakery — good for a morale stop.

🚌On foot, ~7–8 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Pheriche (approx. £6–9 pp shared)

• →Kala Patthar sunrise ascent
• →Long descent to Pheriche
• →Pheriche bakery

5–6 hours through Tsuro Wog, Orsho, Shomare and upper Pangboche, then the long climb to Tengboche. Arrive in time for the afternoon puja at Tengboche Monastery — the largest gompa in Khumbu and free to visit (donations welcome). Views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku. Expect to pay a small overnight tax in the national park lodges here.

🚌On foot, ~5–6 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Tengboche (approx. £6–10 pp shared)

• →Tengboche Monastery afternoon puja
• →Ama Dablam viewpoint

4–5 hours down through Phunki Tenga, Sanasa and Kyangjuma, crossing the Dudh Koshi on a series of high suspension bridges. Back at lower altitude you can breathe and celebrate: Namche's pubs, bakeries and restaurants (Irish Pub-style bars and pizza are budget-friendly) are the best on the trek.

🚌On foot, ~4–5 hrs

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (approx. £6–10 pp shared)

• →Suspension bridge descents through Phunki Tenga and Sanasa
• →Namche pubs and restaurants

The final trekking day: 6–7 hours back down through Monjo and Jorsale, following the Dudh Koshi river and its endless suspension bridges. Overnight in Lukla near the airstrip and reconfirm tomorrow's flight — weather cancellations are common, so keep a buffer day in your plans and know that a road-jeep alternative from Salleri/Surke is possible if flights are grounded.

🚌On foot, ~6–7 hrs

🛏Guesthouse in Lukla (approx. £6–10 pp shared)

• →Namche → Lukla descent along the Dudh Koshi
• →Reconfirm onward flight at airline counter

Morning flight back to Kathmandu (approx. £150–180; book round-trip in advance for the better rate). Transfer to a Thamel guesthouse by taxi or ride-hailing app (approx. £3–5). Optional afternoon: walk yourself to Boudhanath Stupa (approx. £0.90 entry) and Pashupatinath, or hire a licensed city guide for around £20 for a half day. Finish with a farewell dinner of momos and Newari food in Thamel — no group set menu required.

🚌Flight Lukla–Kathmandu (~£150–180) + airport taxi (~£4)

🛏Thamel guesthouse/budget hotel, Kathmandu (approx. £10–16 pp shared)

• →Lukla–Kathmandu flight
• →Self-guided Boudhanath and Pashupatinath
• →Optional private city guide (~£20)
• →Thamel farewell dinner