Cycle the Backroads of Cuba: Self-Launched

Fly into José Martí International Airport (HAV) and take a state taxi or pre-booked private transfer to your casa particular in the Vedado or Centro Habana neighbourhood — negotiate the fare before you get in, or use a metered state taxi (~£15–20 from the airport). Casas particulares are Cuba's licensed homestay network and are far superior to hotels for atmosphere and value; book via Airbnb or direct WhatsApp contact. Spend the late afternoon wandering La Habana Vieja's colourful streets. Head to a local paladar (private restaurant) for dinner — try La Guarida or any spot on Calle Obispo.

🚌State taxi from airport to central Havana (~£15–20); walk everywhere in Old Havana

🛏Casa particular in Vedado or Centro Habana — book via Airbnb or direct contact (~£25–35/night twin share)

• →Arrive at José Martí International Airport (HAV)
• →State taxi or private transfer to Vedado (~£15–20)
• →Explore La Habana Vieja on foot
• →Dinner at a local paladar

Pick up your hired bike in Havana (arrange with your casa host or hire from a local operator — Trek-style hybrid bikes available ~£10–15/day). Take a shared taxi (colectivo) or Viazul bus to the outskirts of Havana to start your ride, or cycle directly from Vedado (~25km, 210m ascent). Pedal into the Sierra del Rosario UNESCO Biosphere Reserve to the community of Las Terrazas. Have lunch at the community-run Restaurante Moka (~£5–8). Optionally book the Las Terrazas zip-line directly on arrival (~£10–15). In the afternoon, descend to the San Juan River for a wild swim. Stay in one of the stilted riverside eco-huts at the Las Terrazas resort complex — bookable direct or via Cuban state tourism (~£20–30/night).

🚌Colectivo taxi from Havana outskirts if needed (~£3–5); cycle ~25km to Las Terrazas

🛏Stilted riverside eco-hut at Las Terrazas resort (~£20–30/night)

• →Cycle to Las Terrazas via Sierra del Rosario (~25km, 210m ascent)
• →Lunch at community-run Restaurante Moka
• →Optional zip-line at Las Terrazas (~£10–15, book on arrival)
• →Wild swim in the San Juan River
• →Dinner at Cuba's first vegetarian restaurant, El Romero

Breakfast at Hotel Moka overlooking the forest (~£3–5). Today is your longest day: ~75km with 665m of climbing as you descend from the biosphere reserve through Artemisa and Pinar del Río provinces. The route is mostly flat through rural agricultural landscapes once you're out of the sierra. Refuel at roadside stalls selling fresh fruit, tamales, and sugarcane juice (~£1–2). Arrive in San Diego de los Baños, a quiet former spa town well off the tourist trail. Find a casa particular on arrival or pre-book via Airbnb (~£15–25/night). Relax in the town plaza in the evening.

🚌Cycle ~75km from Las Terrazas; support your bike via colectivo for heavy sections if needed (~£3–5)

🛏Casa particular in San Diego de los Baños (~£15–25/night)

• →Breakfast at Hotel Moka with forest views (~£3–5)
• →Cycle ~75km through Artemisa and Pinar del Río provinces
• →Stop at roadside stalls for fresh fruit and snacks
• →Explore the sleepy streets of San Diego de los Baños

Ride ~67km (858m ascent) north towards Cuba's largely untouched north coast. Early in the ride, detour through Parque La Güira and stop at Cueva de los Portales — the cave where Che Guevara was stationed during the Cuban Missile Crisis in 1962. Entry is cheap (~£1–2, pay at the gate). Continue past tobacco farms and small villages to Puerto Esperanza, a genuine fishing village almost entirely free of tourism. Pre-book a casa particular here via Airbnb or ask locally on arrival (~£15–20/night). In the evening, seek out local music — ask your casa host about La Camorra or similar community cultural gatherings.

🚌Cycle ~67km from San Diego de los Baños; colectivo available as fallback (~£4–6)

🛏Casa particular in Puerto Esperanza (~£15–20/night)

• →Cycle ~67km to Puerto Esperanza (858m ascent)
• →Visit Parque La Güira
• →Explore Cueva de los Portales — Che Guevara's Missile Crisis hideout (~£1–2 entry)
• →Arrive in Puerto Esperanza fishing village
• →Evening community music session (ask casa host to arrange)

Cycle or take a shared taxi (~£5–8) through quiet backroads to Cayo Jutias, a stunning 11km coastal strip of white sand and crystal-clear Caribbean water. Entry to the cay is ~£3 (paid at the causeway). Swim, snorkel, and have a long lunch at the beach bar (~£5–10). In the afternoon, take a shared taxi or colectivo (~£5–8) the ~40km to Viñales, as the road distance makes cycling both legs in one day tough. Check into a casa particular in Viñales town — there are dozens of excellent options, book via Airbnb or CasaCuba (~£20–30/night). Explore the town in the evening and grab a cocktail on a rooftop terrace.

🚌Shared taxi or colectivo Cayo Jutias–Viñales (~£5–8); cycling optional for first leg

🛏Casa particular in Viñales town (~£20–30/night)

• →Cycle or shared taxi to Cayo Jutias beach (~£5–8)
• →Entry to Cayo Jutias causeway (~£3)
• →Swim and snorkel in the Caribbean Sea
• →Lunch at the Cayo Jutias beach bar (~£5–10)
• →Shared taxi to Viñales (~£5–8)
• →Evening drinks on a rooftop terrace in Viñales

A full day exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Viñales Valley by bike (~38km, 300m ascent). Hire a local guide for the valley for ~£15–20/half day via your casa host, or follow self-launched tracks on Maps.me or OsmAnd. Visit the Mural de la Prehistoria (entry ~£1–2). Stop at tobacco farms along the way — farmers welcome visitors and you can learn about Cuban cigar production first-hand (tip generously, ~£1–2). Head to Cueva del Indio for a boat ride along the subterranean river (~£5 entry). In the afternoon, take free time to explore Viñales village on foot, watch the sunset over the mogotes from a viewpoint, and enjoy dinner at a paladar.

🚌Bike hire for the day if not already carrying (~£8–12); all cycling

🛏Casa particular in Viñales town (~£20–30/night)

• →Cycle Viñales Valley loop (~38km, 300m ascent)
• →Visit Mural de la Prehistoria (~£1–2 entry)
• →Stop at tobacco farms along cycle route (tip ~£1–2)
• →Boat ride through Cueva del Indio underground river (~£5 entry)
• →Sunset viewpoint over the mogotes
• →Dinner at a local paladar in Viñales

One last morning ride through the Viñales Valley (~46km, 350m ascent), heading north past the towering mogotes. Stop again at Los Portales cave — another Che Guevara Cuban Missile Crisis site. After a picnic lunch (grab supplies from a local market or bakery, ~£3–5), return your bike and take the Viazul bus from Viñales back to Havana (~3 hours, ~£10–12, book 1–2 days ahead at the Viazul office or online at viazul.com). Check back into your original casa particular in Vedado. Celebrate your final night with dinner and mojitos at a paladar, then find live salsa music — Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) is unmissable on weekends (~£3 entry).

🚌Cycle ~46km morning ride; Viazul bus Viñales–Havana (~£10–12, book ahead at viazul.com)

🛏Casa particular in Vedado, Havana (~£25–35/night)

• →Final morning cycle through Viñales Valley (~46km, 350m ascent)
• →Visit Los Portales cave — Che Guevara's Missile Crisis command post
• →Picnic lunch from local market (~£3–5)
• →Viazul bus: Viñales to Havana (~3 hrs, ~£10–12)
• →Farewell dinner and mojitos at a Havana paladar
• →Live salsa at Fábrica de Arte Cubano (~£3 entry)

Depending on your flight time, spend the morning walking through La Habana Vieja one last time — the Malecón seafront promenade, Plaza de la Catedral, and the Capitolio are all worth a final look. Grab a last Cuban coffee and a tostada at a local café (~£1–2). Take a state taxi or pre-arranged private transfer to José Martí International Airport (~£15–20). Return your bike if you hired it on a multi-day basis.

🚌State taxi to HAV airport (~£15–20)

🛏Check out of casa particular

• →Final walk along the Malecón and through La Habana Vieja
• →Last Cuban coffee and tostada at a local café (~£1–2)
• →State taxi to José Martí International Airport (~£15–20)