Costa Rica Coast to Coast: San José, Puerto Viejo, Arenal & Guanacaste (Self-Launched)

Land at Juan Santamaría (SJO) or Liberia (LIR) and get to the city centre. The official orange airport taxi to downtown runs about ₡10,000–15,000 (£13–19); shared shuttles and the TUASA bus from the airport road are cheaper but slower. Base yourself in Barrio Amón or Barrio Escalante — leafy, walkable and close to the Mercado Central for a cheap casado dinner (£6–8). Pick up a local SIM/eSIM (Kolbi or Claro, ~£8 for 5GB) and withdraw colones — cards work widely but many small places add a 5–10% surcharge. Don't wander after dark with a camera out; take taxis at night.

🚌Airport taxi ~£13–19, or TUASA bus ~£1

🛏Hostel private room or budget guesthouse, Barrio Amón/Escalante (~£22–30)

• →Mercado Central food stalls
• →Barrio Escalante coffee stop
• →Jade Museum (~£12) or Pre-Columbian Gold Museum (~£9) if you have an afternoon

Head east over the mountains to the Caribbean coast. The straightforward DIY option is the daily MEPE bus from San José's Terminal del Caribe to Puerto Viejo (~4.5–5 hrs, around ₡6,500–8,000 / £9–11) — book online ahead in high season. Alternatively, door-to-door shared shuttles run ~£30–38. You'll arrive mid-afternoon: drop bags, rent a beach cruiser bike (~£7/day) and cycle the coastal road to Playa Cocles or Punta Uva for a first swim in the warm Caribbean.

🚌MEPE public bus ~£9–11 (4.5–5 hrs) or shared shuttle ~£30–38

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Puerto Viejo town (~£14–20 dorm, £28–38 private)

• →Bike rental to Playa Cocles / Punta Uva
• →Sunset swim on the Caribbean

A full beach day. Lessons at Playa Cocles cost around £30–40 for a two-hour group session with board (book direct with the surf schools on the beach road). Snorkellers should take a boat trip out to the Cahuita reef, or combine with a wander through Cahuita National Park (entry by donation). Back in town, dinner is rice-and-beans, patacones and fresh fish — Caribbean-Costa Rican cooking with a Creole twist, usually £8–12.

🚌On foot / bike ~£7

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Puerto Viejo town (~£14–20 dorm, £28–38 private)

• →Surf lesson at Playa Cocles (~£30–40)
• →Snorkel trip or Cahuita National Park walk (~£25–35)
• →Caribbean food night in town

Second beach day, but push it inland a bit. The Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge is the best independent option: catch the local bus or cycle to Manzanillo (entry ~£2–3) and walk the coastal trail — sloths, howler monkeys and toucans are common, and a local guide at the trailhead runs ~£25–35 if you want to actually spot things. Alternatively, the Finca La Isla botanical garden just outside town is £4–8 and has a lovely café.

🚌Local bus or bike to Manzanillo ~£2–5

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Puerto Viejo town (~£14–20 dorm, £28–38 private)

• →Gandoca-Manzanillo refuge coastal trail
• →Optional local wildlife guide (~£25–35)
• →Finca La Isla botanical garden (~£4–8)

The long transfer day to the Arenal volcano region — realistically 5.5–7 hours. Options: shared shuttle Puerto Viejo–La Fortuna (~£40–50, easiest), or the cheaper local route via Limón/Bataan with a change in San José or Ciudad Quesada (~£12–16 but a full day and fiddly with luggage). Arrive late afternoon, settle into a La Fortuna hostel, and end the day in the hot springs — the free riverside hot river at El Chollín just outside town costs nothing, or book a proper thermal complex for ~£25–45.

🚌Shared shuttle ~£40–50 (or local bus combo ~£12–16)

🛏Hostel or budget hotel, La Fortuna (~£14–20 dorm, £30–42 private)

• →El Chollín free riverside hot springs
• →Optional thermal complex soak (~£25–45)

Pick your big-ticket activity. The La Fortuna waterfall (£15–18 entry, plus local bus or taxi) is a 500-step descent to a swim; the Arenal hanging bridges are ~£25–35 self-booked via Klook or GetYourGuide; whitewater rafting on the Balsa or Sarapiquí runs £45–60; canyoning at Lost Canyon is ~£55–65; and the Caño Negro wetland boat trip is ~£45–55. Cheapest option: hike the free/cheap trails around the volcano's 1968 lava fields and follow it with a £6 casado. Book activities the night before in town — agencies undercut online prices.

🚌Local bus/taxi to trailheads ~£3–8

🛏Hostel or budget hotel, La Fortuna (~£14–20 dorm, £30–42 private)

• →La Fortuna Waterfall (~£15–18)
• →Arenal hanging bridges (~£25–35)
• →Optional rafting (~£45–60) or canyoning (~£55–65)

Cross to the Pacific coast. The DIY route is bus La Fortuna → Ciudad Quesada → Cañas → Nicoya/Sámara (roughly 5–6 hrs, ~£10–14 total), or a shared shuttle straight to Sámara/Tamarindo for £35–45. Sámara is the better backpacker pick: a long swimmable crescent beach, cheap cabinas, and good beginner surf. Afternoon swim and a beachfront beer.

🚌Local buses ~£10–14 (or shared shuttle £35–45)

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Sámara (~£15–22 dorm, £30–40 private)

• →Sámara beach swim
• →Sunset walk to Playa Carrillo

Surf lesson or board hire in the morning (£20–30 for a lesson; £10/day board hire). In the afternoon either kayak/snorkel out to Isla Chora (~£25–35), take a boat trip looking for dolphins and turtles, or simply do nothing on the sand. Sámara is also where you can arrange a turtle-egg-release visit in season at the local project — ask at your hostel.

🚌On foot ~£0

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Sámara (~£15–22 dorm, £30–40 private)

• →Surf lesson or board hire (~£20–30)
• →Isla Chora kayak & snorkel (~£25–35)
• →Beach time

Second Guanacaste day: morning yoga on the beach (£10–12 drop-in), a long coastal walk, or a horseback ride on the sand (£30–40). Good day to do laundry (£4–6), restock cash (ATMs in Sámara can be unreliable — carry enough colones), and eat cheaply at the sodas rather than the tourist-facing spots.

🚌On foot ~£0

🛏Beach hostel or cabina, Sámara (~£15–22 dorm, £30–40 private)

• →Beach yoga (~£10–12)
• →Optional horseback riding (~£30–40)
• →Laundry & admin day

Bus back to the capital: Sámara → Nicoya → San José takes about 5–6 hours and costs ~£10–14 (or a shared shuttle for £35–45). Check into a hostel in Barrio Amón and spend the evening eating your way around the Mercado Central — that's the best final-night send-off in the city.

🚌Local buses ~£10–14 (or shuttle £35–45)

🛏Hostel private room or budget guesthouse, San José (~£22–30)

• →Mercado Central food crawl
• →Optional evening in Barrio Escalante

Airport run. Budget ~45–60 minutes from the centre in traffic. Remember Costa Rica's exit tax — usually now included in air tickets, but check, as it used to be paid separately (~$29). Keep a copy of your onward ticket and passport to hand.

🚌Airport taxi ~£13–19 or TUASA bus ~£1

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• →Departure