Trek the Tour du Mont Blanc: The Full Circuit (Self-Launched)

Arrive in Chamonix the evening before (or early morning) by bus from Geneva Airport — flixbus and SAT Mont-Blanc coaches run regularly and take around 1h15, costing around £15-20. On Day 1, take the local Mont Blanc Express train or bus from Chamonix centre to Les Houches (around £3). From the TMB Archway near the tourism office, ride the Bellevue cable car (£15-20 return, book on arrival) and begin your trek over Col de Tricot, crossing the dramatic suspension bridge above the Bionnassay Glacier. Follow trail markers down to Les Contamines-Montjoie. Tonight, check in to Gîte Le Pontet or a similar refuge/gîte in Les Contamines — book in advance directly via the refuge website (around £35-45pp for a dorm bed including breakfast and dinner).

🚌Geneva Airport → Chamonix by SAT Mont-Blanc bus (~£18, ~1h15). Chamonix → Les Houches by Mont Blanc Express train or local bus (~£3). Bellevue cable car: ~£18.

🛏Gîte Le Pontet, Les Contamines-Montjoie (dorm bed with half-board, ~£40pp). Book direct at gite-le-pontet.com or via refuges.com.

• →Ride the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches for panoramic views of the Mont Blanc Massif
• →Hike Col de Tricot (7hrs, ~10 miles, 2,395ft ascent)
• →Cross the suspension bridge over the Bionnassay Glacier waterfalls
• →Arrive in Les Contamines-Montjoie — explore the village and settle into your refuge

A demanding day (9hrs, ~12 miles) but stunningly rewarding. Begin by visiting the ancient 14th-century church of Notre Dame de la Gorge — a beautiful baroque monument at the trail's edge. Climb steadily through the Savoie nature reserve to Col du Bonhomme, passing Roman bridges, alpine lakes and traditional farmhouses at Le Balme. After a self-assembled picnic lunch (buy supplies in Les Contamines the evening before from a local shop), descend to Les Chapieux. Alternatively, some walkers take a short local taxi or bus to Bourg St Maurice for more accommodation options. Book your refuge bed at Refuge des Mottets or Auberge de la Nova directly — expect around £35-45pp half-board.

🚌On foot throughout. If heading to Bourg St Maurice instead, local taxis run from Les Chapieux (~£10-15pp shared).

🛏Refuge des Mottets or Auberge la Nova, Les Chapieux (dorm half-board ~£40pp). Book direct via refuges.com.

• →Visit Notre Dame de la Gorge church (14th century, free entry)
• →Climb Col du Bonhomme through the Savoie nature reserve
• →Spot Roman bridges, alpine lakes and traditional farmhouses at Le Balme
• →Prepare your own picnic lunch from supplies bought the evening before

A glorious 7-8hr, ~12-mile day that takes you across the French-Italian border. Follow the river through stunning alpine valleys before the long climb to Col de la Seigne at 8,250ft — your official entry into Italy. The views of the Mont Blanc massif from the col are extraordinary. Descend into the Val Veny to reach Rifugio Monte Bianco, where you'll spend the night. Book the rifugio directly via their website — half-board dorm beds run around £45-55pp. Pick up a trekking map if you don't already have one (IGN 3630 OT covers this section, ~£10 from shops in Chamonix or Les Contamines).

🚌On foot throughout.

🛏Rifugio Monte Bianco, Val Veny (dorm half-board ~£50pp). Book direct at rifugiomonteblanc.com.

• →Hike Col de la Seigne (8,250ft) — the French-Italian border crossing
• →Follow alpine river valleys through classic TMB terrain
• →Arrive at Rifugio Monte Bianco with sweeping views of the Italian side of the massif

A shorter day (3-4hrs, ~6 miles) — a welcome rest for tired legs. The route descends through the Val Veny with jaw-dropping views of the 13,000ft+ peaks of the Mont Blanc range towering above. Arrive mid-afternoon in the charming Italian mountain town of Courmayeur — treat yourself to a proper Italian lunch or gelato (budget £10-15). Explore the town, visit the Alpine Museum (free or minimal entry), and stock up on supplies. Tonight is a great opportunity to stay at a slightly more comfortable guesthouse or hotel. Hotel Croux (the refuge used by commercial operators) or similar options in town run around £35-50pp in a shared room. Book via Booking.com or direct.

🚌On foot throughout. Courmayeur has a free shuttle bus around town.

🛏Hotel Croux or guesthouse in Courmayeur (shared room ~£40pp). Book via Booking.com or direct.

• →Trek through Val Veny with views of the 13,000ft+ peaks
• →Explore Courmayeur — browse boutiques, visit the Alpine Museum and enjoy Italian mountain cuisine
• →Rest and recover — shorter day ideal for stretching, foot care and kit drying

One of the most iconic overnight stops on the entire TMB circuit. Today's hike (6-7hrs, ~8 miles) takes you through the Italian Val Ferret with Mont Blanc, the Dent du Géant and the Grandes Jorasses massif filling the skyline. The famous Rifugio Walter Bonatti is named after legendary Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti — it's remote (no road access), atmospheric and utterly unforgettable. Note: you must carry everything you need for this night, as there is no luggage transfer service. Book well in advance — this refuge fills up fast. Expect ~£50-60pp half-board in a dorm.

🚌On foot throughout. No road access to Rifugio Bonatti — everything must be carried.

🛏Rifugio Walter Bonatti, Val Ferret (dorm half-board ~£55pp). Book direct at rifugiobonatti.it — opens January, books out early.

• →Hike through Italian Val Ferret beneath Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses
• →Overnight at the legendary Rifugio Walter Bonatti — one of the TMB's most celebrated refuges
• →Enjoy the refuge's famous terrace views at sunset — bring a beer from the bar

A big day (8-9hrs, ~13 miles) crossing into your third country. Begin with the High Balcon Val Ferret trail above the valley, then drop to Chalet Ferret for a final Italian espresso before the 2,300ft climb to the Grand Col Ferret (8,323ft) — the Italy-Switzerland border. The descent into Switzerland is beautiful, passing through larch forests and green pastures before arriving at La Fouly, a quiet Swiss mountain village. Tonight, stay at Auberge des Glaciers or Auberge Maya Joie — book direct, budget ~£45-55pp half-board. Swiss francs are needed here — withdraw cash in Courmayeur or La Fouly.

🚌On foot throughout. Note: currency changes to Swiss Francs (CHF) in Switzerland.

🛏Auberge Maya Joie or Auberge des Glaciers, La Fouly (dorm half-board ~£50pp). Book direct via la-fouly.ch.

• →Hike the High Balcon Val Ferret — dramatic ridge trail above the valley
• →Enjoy a final Italian espresso at Chalet Ferret before the border climb
• →Summit the Grand Col Ferret (8,323ft) — the Italy-Switzerland border crossing
• →Descend to the peaceful Swiss village of La Fouly

A gentler day (5-6hrs, ~11 miles) through classic Swiss countryside. Walk through rolling green valleys, past charming hamlets and traditional wooden farmhouses, before arriving at the picture-perfect mountain lake resort of Champex-Lac. The lake is beautiful for a post-hike swim or gentle paddle. Tonight, stay at Relais d'Arpette or a similar guesthouse in Champex — book direct, ~£45-55pp half-board. Stock up at the small supermarket in Champex for tomorrow's picnic supplies. Champex is a great spot to call home for the evening — explore the village, relax by the lake and prepare for the next demanding day.

🚌On foot throughout.

🛏Relais d'Arpette or guesthouse in Champex-Lac (dorm half-board ~£50pp). Book direct via relais-arpette.ch.

• →Walk through peaceful Swiss valleys, hamlets and farmhouses
• →Arrive at scenic Champex-Lac — take a swim or walk around the lake
• →Browse the village, relax and restock supplies at the local shop

Two route options today (7-8hrs, ~11 miles): the harder Fenêtre d'Arpette (high, rocky, spectacular — the highest point on the entire TMB at around 9,711ft) or the official Bovine route (green hillsides, farmhouses, cows with bells — equally beautiful, less technical). Both are clearly waymarked. Choose based on fitness and conditions — check the weather forecast the night before at meteoblue.com or mountain-forecast.com. Either way, you descend to the tiny village of Trient, nestled in a narrow valley. Stay at Hotel la Grande Ourse or Auberge du Mont Blanc — book direct, ~£45-55pp half-board.

🚌On foot throughout.

🛏Hotel la Grande Ourse or Auberge du Mont Blanc, Trient (dorm half-board ~£50pp). Book direct.

• →Choose your route: Fenêtre d'Arpette (high and technical, 9,711ft) or the Bovine route (lush and scenic)
• →Check the weather forecast the night before — meteoblue.com is reliable for Alpine forecasts
• →Arrive in the beautiful village of Trient, surrounded by glaciers and forest

Back into France on a magnificent day (5-6hrs, ~9 miles). Climb to the Col de Balme (7,185ft) on the Swiss-French border — from L'Aiguillette des Possettes, the panoramic view down the Chamonix Valley to the Aiguille du Midi and summit of Mont Blanc is one of the finest on the entire circuit. Descend via Tré-le-Champ and continue to Argentière, the last village before Chamonix. Stay at Gîte Le Moulin in Argentière — a welcoming walkers' refuge, book direct, ~£40-50pp half-board. Argentière has a small selection of bars and restaurants for a well-earned final evening celebration.

🚌On foot throughout. Argentière is served by the Mont Blanc Express train back to Chamonix if needed.

🛏Gîte Le Moulin, Argentière (dorm half-board ~£45pp). Book direct at gite-le-moulin.com.

• →Hike to Col de Balme (7,185ft) — the Swiss-French border with sweeping Chamonix Valley views
• →Take in the panorama of the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc summit from L'Aiguillette des Possettes
• →Descend to Argentière — celebrate your penultimate night with dinner and drinks at a local bar

The glorious finale (7-8hrs, ~11 miles). Trek the Grand Balcon Sud high above the Chamonix Valley with Mont Blanc dominating the skyline. The detour to the famous Lac Blanc (one of the Alps' most photographed lakes) is highly recommended — allow an extra hour. Continue to the Flégère or Planpraz cable cars: if legs are tired, ride one down to Chamonix (~£15-20); or if you're feeling strong, hike all the way down to Chamonix on foot. Celebrate your completion of one of the world's great treks with dinner in Chamonix — the town has excellent options for all budgets. Head home the following day via bus to Geneva Airport (~£18).

🚌On foot for most of the day. Flégère or Planpraz cable car descent to Chamonix (~£18). Chamonix → Geneva Airport by SAT Mont-Blanc bus (~£18).

🛏Your own choice in Chamonix (optional extra night). Budget hostel/guesthouse from ~£30pp.

• →Hike the Grand Balcon Sud — high-level trail with uninterrupted Mont Blanc views
• →Visit Lac Blanc — one of the Alps' most iconic alpine lakes (allow extra time)
• →Descend by cable car from Flégère or Planpraz (~£15-20), or hike all the way down to Chamonix
• →Celebrate completing the TMB circuit with dinner and drinks in Chamonix