The Five Stans of the Silk Road – Almaty to Ashgabat (Self-Launched)

Fly into Almaty International Airport (ALA). Take the public bus 79 or 86 into the city centre for around £0.20, or a ride-share app (inDriver/Yandex) for ~£3–5. Check into a budget hotel or hostel in the city centre. In the afternoon, walk to Panfilov Park, the stunning Zenkov Cathedral, Republic Square, and the National History Museum (entry ~£1–2). Head to the Green Bazaar for an introduction to Kazakh food — grab samsa (meat pastries) and fresh fruit for under £3.

🚌Public bus 79/86 from airport (~£0.20) or Yandex taxi (~£4)

🛏Almaty Backpackers or Aykyn Hostel (dorm ~£10–14/night, private ~£22–28/night)

• →Walk Panfilov Park and Zenkov Cathedral (free)
• →Republic Square and National History Museum (~£1–2)
• →Green Bazaar food exploration (~£3)
• →Museum of National Instruments (~£1)

Take a public bus or shared taxi to Medeo Gorge (~£0.50–1 each way). Walk up the 842-step dam or take the gondola to Shymbulak ski resort for panoramic Tien Shan views (cable car ~£5–8 return). In the afternoon, return to Almaty and ride the Kok-Tobe cable car (£4 return) to the hilltop park for sweeping city views. Explore the hilltop on foot and return to the city for a leisurely evening in one of Almaty's many cafes.

🚌Public bus to Medeo (~£0.50 each way); local bus/taxi for Kok-Tobe (~£1–2)

🛏Almaty Backpackers or Aykyn Hostel (same as Day 1)

• →Medeo Gorge and dam walk (free)
• →Shymbulak cable car for mountain panoramas (~£5–8 return)
• →Kok-Tobe cable car and hilltop park (~£4 return)
• →Afternoon free for cafes or Arbat pedestrian street

An early start is essential. The most cost-effective option is to join a day-trip/shared taxi to Charyn Canyon arranged through your hostel (~£15–20 per person in a shared vehicle). Spend 2–3 hours hiking the Valley of Castles — a dramatic landscape of eroded red-rock formations reminiscent of the American Southwest. Pack a picnic lunch from a nearby supermarket. After Charyn, arrange onward shared transport to the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border at Kegen/Karkyra. Cross on foot and pick up a shared taxi or marshrutka on the Kyrgyz side towards Karakol via the scenic Karkara Valley (~£8–12). Arrive Karakol by evening.

🚌Shared taxi Almaty–Charyn–Kyrgyz border (~£15–20); marshrutka/shared taxi to Karakol (~£8–12)

🛏Yak Tours Guesthouse or Dervish Hostel, Karakol (~£10–15/night)

• →Charyn Canyon hike — Valley of Castles (~£15–20 shared transport)
• →Moon Canyon viewpoint (free)
• →Picnic lunch in the canyon
• →Scenic Karkara Valley drive

Morning walking tour of Karakol: visit the Dungan Mosque (1899, free), the Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity Church (1886, free), and the colourful Sunday animal market if timing aligns. Arrange a shared taxi or CBT (Community Based Tourism) transfer westward along the southern shore of Issyk-Kul Lake (~£10–15). Stop at Bokonbaevo village for an eagle-hunting (berkutchi) demonstration — book directly through local CBT Bokonbaevo office or via guesthouses (~£8–12 per person). Continue to Kyzyl Tuu village to see yurt-making craftspeople (small tip/donation). End the day in the Chon-Kemin Valley — book a guesthouse in advance through CBT Kyrgyzstan.

🚌Shared taxi Karakol to Bokonbaevo (~£6–8); onward shared taxi to Chon-Kemin (~£8–10)

🛏CBT Guesthouse, Chon-Kemin Valley (~£12–18/night including dinner)

• →Dungan Mosque and Holy Trinity Church, Karakol (free)
• →Drive along Issyk-Kul southern shore
• →Eagle-hunting demonstration in Bokonbaevo (~£8–12 via CBT)
• →Yurt-making visit in Kyzyl Tuu village (~£3–5)

Take a shared taxi or marshrutka from Chon-Kemin towards Bishkek (~£5–8). En route, stop at Tokmok and walk/taxi 8km to the Burana Tower — an 11th-century Karakhanid minaret and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entry ~£1.50. Climb the narrow spiral staircase for views over the Chuy Valley, explore the museum, outdoor balbals (ancient stone figures) and mausoleum reconstructions. Continue by marshrutka or shared taxi into Bishkek (~£1–2) and check into a hostel.

🚌Shared taxi Chon-Kemin to Tokmok (~£5–8); marshrutka Tokmok–Bishkek (~£1–2)

🛏Nomads Hostel or Apple Hostel, Bishkek (dorm ~£8–12/night, private ~£20–25/night)

• →Burana Tower climb and museum (~£1.50 entry)
• →Balbals and mausoleum ruins exploration (included in entry)
• →Arrive Bishkek and explore Osh Bazaar in the evening

A full day exploring Bishkek on foot — the city is compact, green and very walkable. Visit Ala-Too Square and watch the ceremonial flag-lowering, the State History Museum (£1–2), the Kyrgyz National Museum of Fine Arts (£1), and Oak Park. Wander the Soviet-era boulevards and stop at the Osh Bazaar for street food — try lagman noodles and samsa. The city has a thriving cafe scene; end the afternoon with coffee and cake at one of the European-style cafes near Erkindik Boulevard. Evening free for local restaurants.

🚌All on foot or local bus (~£0.20 per ride)

🛏Nomads Hostel or Apple Hostel, Bishkek (same as Day 5)

• →Ala-Too Square and flagpole ceremony (free)
• →State History Museum (~£1–2)
• →Kyrgyz National Museum of Fine Arts (~£1)
• →Oak Park walk (free)
• →Osh Bazaar street food (~£3–5)

An early departure from Bishkek's Western Bus Station. Take a shared taxi or marshrutka heading south along the Bishkek-Osh highway (~£8–12, ~8–9 hours). The route passes through spectacular Tien Shan scenery: the Suusamyr Valley, Toktogul Reservoir, and over the Ala-Bel and Too-Ashuu mountain passes (both above 3,000m). Stop roadside to buy kumus (fermented mare's milk) and local cheese from yurt-dwellers. Arrive Jalal-Abad by late afternoon/evening.

🚌Shared taxi or marshrutka Bishkek–Jalal-Abad (~£8–12)

🛏Hotel Dostuk or local guesthouse, Jalal-Abad (~£12–18/night)

• →Suusamyr Valley and yurt-dweller stop for kumus tasting (~£1–2)
• →Toktogul Reservoir viewpoint (free)
• →Ala-Bel and Too-Ashuu mountain passes photo stops

Take a shared taxi or marshrutka from Jalal-Abad to Arslanbob village (~£2–3 each way, ~1.5 hours). Arslanbob sits at 1,600m amid the world's largest wild walnut forest. A CBT-guided walk through the forest and up to the twin waterfalls takes around 4 hours at a leisurely pace (~£5–8 for a local guide, recommended for navigation). Pack a picnic lunch from Jalal-Abad's market. Return to Jalal-Abad by late afternoon.

🚌Shared taxi/marshrutka Jalal-Abad–Arslanbob return (~£4–6)

🛏Hotel Dostuk or local guesthouse, Jalal-Abad (same as Day 7)

• →Arslanbob walnut forest walk (~4 hours)
• →Waterfall hike with local CBT guide (~£5–8)
• →Picnic lunch in the forest
• →Village life exploration (free)

Take a shared taxi from Jalal-Abad to Osh (~£3–5, ~1.5 hours). En route, stop briefly at Uzgen to see the 12th-century minaret and mausoleums (~£1 entry). In Osh, climb Sulayman Mountain (Taht-i-Suleiman), a UNESCO World Heritage Site sacred to Muslims — free to ascend, small museum inside the cave (~£0.50). Walk the lively Jayma Bazaar, one of Central Asia's largest markets. Then take a shared taxi to the Dustlik/Dostyk border crossing into Uzbekistan (~£3–5). Cross on foot and pick up a taxi to Fergana city (~£3–5).

🚌Shared taxi Jalal-Abad–Osh (~£3–5); shared taxi Osh–border (~£3–5); taxi border–Fergana (~£3–5)

🛏Silk Road Hotel or Ziyorat Hotel, Fergana (~£15–22/night)

• →Uzgen minaret and mausoleums (~£1 entry)
• →Sulayman Mountain climb and cave museum (~£0.50)
• →Jayma Bazaar, Osh (free)
• →Kyrgyzstan–Uzbekistan border crossing

Morning: hire a local taxi for a half-day round trip to Rishtan (~£8–12 shared), the Fergana Valley town famous for its blue-glazed ceramics — visit a working pottery studio (free or small tip). Return to Fergana and take a marshrutka to Kokand (~£1–2, 1 hour) to see the ornate Khan's Palace (£1 entry) and the Juma Mosque. Then arrange shared transport to the Tajik border at Khujand (~£5–8 with changes). Cross into Tajikistan and taxi to Khujand centre. Note: ensure your Tajikistan e-visa is valid before travel.

🚌Local taxi to Rishtan and back (~£8–12 shared); marshrutka to Kokand (~£1–2); shared transport to border and taxi to Khujand (~£5–8)

🛏Hotel Khujand Palace or Navruz Hotel, Khujand (~£18–25/night)

• →Rishtan pottery workshop visit (~£8–12 shared taxi + free entry)
• →Kokand Khan's Palace (~£1 entry)
• →Kokand Juma Mosque (free)
• →Uzbekistan–Tajikistan border crossing to Khujand

Morning: explore Khujand's Panjshanbe Bazaar (one of Central Asia's largest covered markets, free), the 6th-century Khujand Fortress ruins (small entry fee ~£1), and the Alexander the Great statue. Then arrange a shared taxi to Istaravshan (~£4–6, 1.5 hours) — a well-preserved medieval town with a colourful working crafts bazaar and the Kok-Gumbaz Mosque (free). Continue by shared taxi to Penjikent (~£5–8, 2 hours). Note: a GBAO permit is NOT required for the Fann Mountains but check current Tajikistan visa conditions.

🚌Shared taxi Khujand–Istaravshan (~£4–6); shared taxi Istaravshan–Penjikent (~£5–8)

🛏Penjikent Guest House or Sugd Hotel, Penjikent (~£15–22/night)

• →Panjshanbe Bazaar, Khujand (free)
• →Khujand Fortress (~£1 entry)
• →Istaravshan Kok-Gumbaz Mosque and craft bazaar (free)
• →Scenic drive through Tajik countryside

The Seven Lakes (Haft Kul) are one of Tajikistan's most spectacular sights — a series of turquoise glacial lakes cascading down a rocky gorge in the Fann Mountains. Arrange a shared taxi round trip from Penjikent through your guesthouse (~£12–18 per person shared, ~1.5 hours each way). Walk between the lakes (4–5 hours at a relaxed pace); the lower lakes are accessible without a guide. Pack a picnic lunch. Swim in the crystal-clear water if weather permits. Return to Penjikent by evening.

🚌Shared taxi round trip Penjikent–Seven Lakes (~£12–18 shared)

🛏Penjikent Guest House or Sugd Hotel, Penjikent (same as Day 11)

• →Seven Lakes (Haft Kul) hike and swim (~4–5 hours)
• →Picnic lunch by the lakes
• →Photography of turquoise mountain lakes and canyon scenery

Morning: visit the ancient ruins of Penjikent (~£2 entry), a Sogdian city dating to the 5th–8th centuries with remarkable frescoes (originals in Dushanbe museum, replicas on site). Walk to the nearby UNESCO-listed Sarazm archaeological site (~£1), one of the oldest settlements in Central Asia (~3500 BCE). Then take a shared taxi to the Uzbek border (~£3–5) and onward taxi to Samarkand (~£5–8). Check in and take an evening stroll to Registan Square to see it illuminated.

🚌Shared taxi Penjikent–Tajik border (~£3–5); taxi across border to Samarkand (~£5–8)

🛏Antica B&B or Hotel Bibi Khanum, Samarkand (~£20–30/night)

• →Ancient Penjikent ruins (~£2 entry)
• →Sarazm archaeological site (~£1 entry, UNESCO-listed)
• →Evening visit to Registan Square, Samarkand (free from outside)

Samarkand is arguably the Silk Road's greatest city. Buy a combined sites ticket (~£10–15) and spend the day at: the Registan (three madrassas surrounding a grand square); the Bibi-Khanym Mosque; the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (a lane of extraordinary tiled mausoleums); and the Gur-e-Amir (Timur's mausoleum). In the afternoon, visit the Ulughbek Observatory (~£2). End with a sunset at Registan — the tilework glows gold in the evening light. The old bazaar near Bibi-Khanym is perfect for dried fruit, spices and silk souvenirs.

🚌All on foot or by local taxi (~£1–2 per ride)

🛏Antica B&B or Hotel Bibi Khanum, Samarkand (same as Day 13)

• →Registan Square and three madrassas (~£5–8 entry)
• →Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (~£3–4 entry)
• →Gur-e-Amir mausoleum (~£2–3 entry)
• →Bibi-Khanym Mosque (~£2 entry)
• →Ulughbek Observatory (~£2 entry)
• →Old bazaar for silk and spices

Take the Afrosiyob high-speed train from Samarkand to Bukhara (departs several times daily, ~1.5 hours, ~£8–12 — book in advance at railway.uz or through your guesthouse). Check in to accommodation in Bukhara's atmospheric old city. Afternoon: visit the Sitora-i-Mokhi-Khosa Summer Palace (~£2–3 entry), the last Emir's residence, with its beautiful carved wooden interiors and tranquil gardens. Evening: walk the Lyabi-Hauz (pool square) lined with mulberry trees and traditional teahouses — a wonderful place for plov (Uzbek rice dish) and tea.

🚌Afrosiyob train Samarkand–Bukhara (~£8–12); local taxi to palace (~£1–2)

🛏Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel or Emir Boutique Hostel (~£18–28/night)

• →Afrosiyob high-speed train Samarkand–Bukhara (~£8–12)
• →Sitora-i-Mokhi-Khosa Summer Palace (~£2–3 entry)
• →Lyabi-Hauz evening stroll and plov dinner (~£4–6)

Bukhara's old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval Islamic cities in the world. Spend a full day exploring: the Ark Fortress (£2–3); the Kalon Minaret and Mosque (£1–2); the Bolo-Hauz Mosque; the 10th-century Samanid Mausoleum; the Chor Minor (Four Minarets); and the labyrinthine bazaar domes (Toqi Sarrofon, Toqi Telpak Furushon). Bukhara is wonderfully walkable — almost everything in the old city is within 15 minutes on foot. Evening: watch the sun set over the Kalon Minaret from Lyabi-Hauz.

🚌All on foot in old city

🛏Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel or Emir Boutique Hostel (same as Day 15)

• →Ark Fortress (~£2–3 entry)
• →Kalon Minaret and Mosque (~£1–2 entry)
• →Samanid Mausoleum (~£1 entry)
• →Chor Minor (Four Minarets, ~£1 entry)
• →Bazaar domes shopping (free to enter)
• →Bolo-Hauz Mosque (free)

An early start for a long but rewarding day. Arrange a shared taxi or private car from Bukhara towards Urgench/Khiva (~£15–20 per person, ~6–7 hours across the Kyzylkum Desert). En route, ask your driver to stop at the Desert Castles of Khorezm — ancient mud-brick fortresses rising dramatically from the flat steppe, including Ayaz Kala and Toprak Kala (small entry fees ~£1–2 each). These largely unvisited fortresses are extraordinary. Arrive in Khiva (30 mins from Urgench) by late afternoon and check in inside or just outside the old walled city (Ichan Kala).

🚌Shared taxi or arranged car Bukhara–Desert Castles–Khiva (~£15–20 per person)

🛏Orient Star Khiva (inside city walls) or Asia Khiva Hotel (~£22–32/night)

• →Cross Kyzylkum Desert by shared taxi
• →Ayaz Kala desert fortress (~£1–2 entry)
• →Toprak Kala ruins (~£1–2 entry)
• →Arrive and walk Khiva's Ichan Kala (walled old city) at dusk

Khiva's Ichan Kala (inner walled city) is perhaps Central Asia's most complete and atmospheric ancient urban ensemble — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buy a combined entry ticket (~£8–12) covering the main monuments: Islam Khoja Minaret (tallest in Khiva), Kalta Minor (unfinished turquoise minaret), Juma Mosque (213 wooden columns), Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, and the Tash-Hauli and Kunya Ark palaces. Climb the city walls for panoramic desert views. The whole city is delightfully compact — spend the day wandering, photographing and soaking up the atmosphere.

🚌All on foot inside Ichan Kala

🛏Orient Star Khiva or Asia Khiva Hotel (same as Day 17)

• →Ichan Kala combined monument ticket (~£8–12)
• →Islam Khoja Minaret climb
• →Kalta Minor turquoise minaret
• →Juma Mosque and 213 wooden columns
• →Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
• →City wall walk for panoramic views

Important: Turkmenistan requires a tourist visa arranged in advance through a registered Turkmen travel agency — independent travel is not permitted without an officially approved tour/guide. Book a local Turkmen guide service in advance (this is unavoidable and legally required; budget ~£80–120 for guide/driver services across Turkmenistan days). Take a shared taxi from Khiva/Urgench to the Shahsenem/Shawat border crossing (~£5–8). After formalities (allow 2–3 hours), your pre-arranged Turkmen guide will meet you. Drive to Kunya Urgench (UNESCO World Heritage Site) to see the extraordinary 12th-century Kutlug-Timur Minaret (the tallest surviving minaret in Central Asia) and the Turabek Khanum Mausoleum.

🚌Shared taxi Khiva–Turkmen border (~£5–8); Turkmen guide's vehicle (included in guide package)

🛏Simple hotel or guesthouse, Dashoguz/Kunya Urgench (~£20–30/night)

• →Uzbek–Turkmen border crossing (allow 2–3 hours)
• →Kutlug-Timur Minaret, Kunya Urgench (UNESCO, ~£2 entry)
• →Turabek Khanum Mausoleum (~£1 entry)
• →Il-Arslan Mausoleum complex

Your guide arranges onward transport to Dashoguz Airport for a domestic flight to Ashgabat (~£40–60 for the short flight — book through your Turkmen agency). On arrival in Ashgabat, you'll have a brief glimpse of the surreal marble-clad capital — nicknamed 'The City of White Marble' — before driving east to Mary (~£10–15 by agency vehicle, ~4 hours). Mary is the gateway to Merv and a modern but interesting provincial city. Check in and relax after the long travel day.

🚌Dashoguz–Ashgabat domestic flight (~£40–60); agency vehicle Ashgabat–Mary (~£10–15)

🛏Margush Hotel or Mary Hotel (~£25–35/night)

• →Domestic flight Dashoguz–Ashgabat (~£40–60)
• →Brief stop in Ashgabat's marble-clad centre
• →Drive to Mary through Turkmen countryside
• →Evening walk around Mary city centre (free)

Merv (Ancient Merv, UNESCO World Heritage Site) was once one of the largest cities in the world and a crucial Silk Road hub — today it's an extraordinary open-air archaeological complex spread across 1,000 hectares. Spend the morning exploring with your guide: the Great Kyz Kala mud-brick fortress, the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar (12th century), the Sultan Kala walled city, and the Erk Kala citadel. Entry to the site is around £3–5. After lunch, drive back to Ashgabat (~4–5 hours) and check into your final hotel.

🚌Agency vehicle Mary–Merv–Ashgabat (included in guide package)

🛏Hotel Ak-Altin or similar mid-range hotel, Ashgabat (~£35–50/night)

• →Ancient Merv UNESCO complex — Sultan Kala, Erk Kala (~£3–5 entry)
• →Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar
• →Great Kyz Kala mud-brick fortress
• →Drive back to Ashgabat

Ashgabat is unlike any other city in the world — a surreal showcase of white marble, gold statues and Soviet-scale urban planning built by Turkmenistan's eccentric former leaders. With your guide, visit: the Neutrality Arch and Earthquake Monument; the massive Turkmen Carpet Museum (home to the world's largest hand-woven carpet, ~£2 entry); Ertugrul Gazi Mosque; and the Tolkuchka Bazaar for a final taste of Central Asian market culture. In the afternoon, drive 18km to Nisa (UNESCO World Heritage Site) — the ancient Parthian capital, featuring remarkable circular fortresses and royal tombs (~£2–3 entry).

🚌Agency vehicle for city and Nisa (included in guide package)

🛏Hotel Ak-Altin or similar, Ashgabat (same as Day 21)

• →Ashgabat city tour: Neutrality Arch, Earthquake Monument (free)
• →Turkmen Carpet Museum (~£2 entry)
• →Tolkuchka Bazaar — final Central Asian market experience (free to browse)
• →Ancient Nisa Parthian capital UNESCO site (~£2–3 entry)

Your epic Silk Road journey ends in Ashgabat. Depending on your flight time, there may be a few final hours to grab breakfast in a local café, pick up last-minute souvenirs from the state department stores (GUM), or simply reflect on three extraordinary weeks across five of the world's most fascinating and under-visited countries. Your Turkmen guide can arrange a transfer to Ashgabat International Airport.

🚌Guide vehicle to airport (included in guide package)

• →Final breakfast and last-minute souvenirs from GUM department store
• →Transfer to Ashgabat International Airport