Complete Balkan Adventure — Self-Launched

Land at Zagreb Airport (ZAG) and take the Pleso Prijevoz shuttle bus or ZET city bus 290 into the centre (~£4-6, 30-40 min). Check into a hostel or guesthouse around Donji Grad or near the main station. Spend the evening orienting yourself: Ban Jelačić Square and the Dolac market area. Sort a local SIM/eSIM and pick up an IKEA-style cheap bus card if you're staying a few days.

🚌Pleso Prijevoz shuttle or ZET bus 290 from ZAG (~£5)

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in central Zagreb (~£22-30/night dorm or private budget room)

• →Airport shuttle into central Zagreb
• →Evening wander around Ban Jelačić Square and Dolac

Self-launched walking day covering the same ground as the guided tour: Gornji Grad (Upper Town), Kaptol, St Mark's Church with its tiled roof, the Stone Gate, Tkalčićeva Street and the Dolac market. Join a free walking tour (tip-based, ~£5-8 tip) or download a self-guided audio route. Afternoon: Museum of Broken Relationships or the Mirogoj cemetery if you have energy. Evening in Tkalčićeva's café-bars.

🚌On foot / tram tickets (~£1)

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in central Zagreb

• →Free walking tour of Gornji Grad & Kaptol (tip-based)
• →St Mark's Church and Stone Gate
• →Dolac market
• →Optional Museum of Broken Relationships entry

Big travel day. Take an early FlixBus or Arriva bus Zagreb → Novi Sad (~4.5 hrs, ~£18-22). Drop bags at the bus station lockers and walk the compact centre: Liberty Square, Zmaj Jovina Street, the Orthodox Cathedral and Bishop's Palace, with a view of Petrovaradin Fortress across the Danube. Then take a late-afternoon bus or train Novi Sad → Belgrade (~1.5 hrs, ~£6-8). Check into a hostel in Savamala or near Republic Square.

🚌Bus Zagreb → Novi Sad (~£20) + bus Novi Sad → Belgrade (~£7)

🛏Hostel in Belgrade (Savamala or Skadarlija area, ~£16-24/night)

• →Novi Sad old town self-walk
• →Petrovaradin Fortress viewpoint
• →Evening arrival in Belgrade

Do a tip-based free walking tour of Belgrade (meets near Republic Square, covers Knez Mihailova, Terazije, the Parliament and Skadarlija) — or DIY it. Spend the afternoon at Kalemegdan Fortress (free to wander; small fee for the military museum or Roman well). Optional splurge: sunset drink at a splav on the Sava. Eat a pljeskavica in Skadarlija for dinner.

🚌Tram / on foot (~£2)

🛏Hostel in Belgrade

• →Free walking tour of central Belgrade
• →Kalemegdan Fortress and park
• →Skadarlija evening and pljeskavica dinner

This is a full-day haul. Book a morning bus Belgrade → Skopje (FlixBus/Arriva/Nis Ekspres, ~7-8 hrs including a border stop, ~£22-28). If you want to break it up, stop for lunch in Niš (2 hrs from Belgrade) and continue. Arrive Skopje in the evening, walk the short distance from the bus station to a hostel near the Old Bazaar or Macedonia Square. Note the currency change: Macedonian denar (cash is king).

🚌Bus Belgrade → Skopje (~£25, 7-8 hrs)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in central Skopje (~£14-20/night)

• →Optional Niš stopover and lunch
• →Evening arrival and orientation in Skopje

Morning self-walk of Skopje: Stone Bridge, Macedonia Square, the Old Bazaar, Kale Fortress and the Church of St Spas (small entry fee). Midday bus Skopje → Ohrid (~3 hrs, ~£8-10). Check into a guesthouse in Ohrid old town and catch sunset over the lake from the boardwalk or Kaneo church. Try Ohrid trout for dinner.

🚌Bus Skopje → Ohrid (~£9, 3 hrs)

🛏Guesthouse in Ohrid old town (~£15-22/night)

• →Skopje Old Bazaar and Kale Fortress walk
• →Church of St Spas entry
• →Sunset at Lake Ohrid / Kaneo church

Early walk along Ohrid lakefront and the ancient amphitheatre, then take the bus Ohrid → Tirana (~5-6 hrs including the Albanian border, ~£15-20; some services route via Struga/Elbasan). Arrive Tirana mid/late afternoon and check into a hostel near Blloku or Skanderbeg Square. Evening: Skanderbeg Square, Et'hem Bey Mosque and the Clock Tower — all free and walkable.

🚌Bus Ohrid → Tirana (~£17, 5-6 hrs)

🛏Hostel in central Tirana (~£12-18/night)

• →Ohrid lakefront and amphitheatre walk
• →Tirana evening: Skanderbeg Square, Et'hem Bey Mosque, Clock Tower

Morning in Tirana: optional Bunk'Art 2 or the colourful Blloku district. Then bus or shared furgon Tirana → Podgorica (~4 hrs, ~£12-15). If using a day tour van, you can tack on the Lake Skadar viewpoint en route; independently, take a later Podgorica–Virpazar boat trip on a different day or skip it. Evening walk of Podgorica: Republic Square, Millennial Bridge, Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ.

🚌Bus/furgon Tirana → Podgorica (~£13, 4 hrs)

🛏Hostel or budget apartment in Podgorica (~£15-22/night)

• →Tirana Bunk'Art 2 or Blloku walk
• →Podgorica centre walk: Republic Square, Millennial Bridge

The scenic day. Take a morning bus to Kotor (~2 hrs, ~£5) — allow 2 hours to walk the old town and, if you're up for it, part of the fortress walls. Then a bus or shared taxi Kotor–Budva (~40 min, ~£3) for lunch, before a late afternoon bus Budva → Dubrovnik (~2.5-3 hrs, ~£12-15, includes a border crossing). Check into a hostel in Lapad or the old town (book early — Dubrovnik is pricey in season).

🚌Bus Podgorica → Kotor (~£5) + Kotor → Budva (~£3) + Budva → Dubrovnik (~£14)

🛏Hostel in Dubrovnik (Lapad or Ploče area, ~£25-35/night dorm)

• →Kotor old town walk and optional walls climb
• →Budva beach and old town
• →Border crossing into Croatia

Buy your city walls ticket (now ~£30-35, include Fort Lovrijenac) and walk Pile Gate, Onofrio's Fountain, the Franciscan Monastery, Stradun, the Rector's Palace and the city walls at your own pace. Optional: ferry to Lokrum Island (~£15 return) for swimming and the botanical garden. Skip the overpriced old-town restaurants — eat in Lapad or Gruž.

🚌On foot / local bus to Lapad (~£2)

🛏Hostel in Dubrovnik

• →Dubrovnik city walls walk and Fort Lovrijenac
• →Stradun and Franciscan Monastery
• →Optional Lokrum Island ferry

Long but iconic transfer day. Take an early bus Dubrovnik → Mostar (~3 hrs, ~£14-18). Spend 2-3 hours in Mostar: Stari Most, the old bazaar (Kujundžiluk) and the Neretva riverfront — time it for the afternoon dive if you can. Then an afternoon/evening train or bus Mostar → Sarajevo (train ~2 hrs, ~£6-8; bus ~2.5 hrs, ~£8-10). Arrive Sarajevo, check into a hostel near Baščaršija.

🚌Bus Dubrovnik → Mostar (~£16) + train/bus Mostar → Sarajevo (~£8)

🛏Hostel in Baščaršija, Sarajevo (~£14-20/night)

• →Mostar Stari Most and old bazaar
• →Neretva riverfront walk
• →Scenic Mostar–Sarajevo train (seats left)

Free walking tour of Sarajevo (tip-based, ~£5-8) covering Baščaršija, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the City Hall, the Latin Bridge (Princip's Bridge) and the 'meeting of cultures' line between Catholic, Orthodox and Jewish buildings. Lunch: a traditional ćevapi plate or the Bosnian meatballs + tufahija the tour included (~£8). Afternoon: the Tunnel of Hope museum or the Yellow Fortress viewpoint at sunset.

🚌On foot / tram (~£2)

🛏Hostel in Baščaršija, Sarajevo

• →Free walking tour of Sarajevo
• →Baščaršija bazaar and Latin Bridge
• →Yellow Fortress sunset viewpoint
• →Optional Tunnel of Hope museum

Bus Sarajevo → Split (~5-6 hrs with the border, ~£18-22; some services via Mostar). Arrive early evening and check into a hostel in the old town or Varoš. Do your own Diocletian's Palace loop: the Golden Gate, the Peristyle, the cellars (small entry ~£6) and St Duje Cathedral (tower ~£5). Evening on the Riva with a cheap slice and a beer.

🚌Bus Sarajevo → Split (~£20, 5-6 hrs)

🛏Hostel inside or near Diocletian's Palace (~£18-26/night)

• →Diocletian's Palace and Peristyle walk
• →Golden Gate and St Duje Cathedral
• →Riva evening stroll

The big day. Take an early bus Split → Plitvice (Entrance 1 or 2) (~3 hrs, ~£15) or join a day-tour transfer. Pre-book the Plitvice entrance ticket online (~£26-35 depending on season) — it's timed and sells out in summer. Spend 4 hours on the lower/upper lake trails. Then bus Plitvice → Zagreb (~2.5 hrs, ~£10-12). Nice dinner in Zagreb to mark the loop closing.

🚌Bus Split → Plitvice (~£15) + Plitvice → Zagreb (~£11)

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Zagreb (~£22-28/night)

• →Plitvice Lakes National Park (pre-booked entrance)
• →Upper and lower lakes boardwalks
• →Evening in Zagreb

Short hop: train or FlixBus Zagreb → Ljubljana (~2.5 hrs, ~£9-12). Check into a hostel in the centre or Metelkova area. Ease in with a walk along the Ljubljanica river, the market colonnade and the Dragon Bridge, then a low-key evening in Metelkova or along the river bars.

🚌Train or bus Zagreb → Ljubljana (~£10, 2.5 hrs)

🛏Hostel in Ljubljana (~£20-28/night)

• →Ljubljanica river walk and Dragon Bridge
• →Metelkova evening

Free tip-based walking tour of Ljubljana covering Prešeren's Square, the Triple Bridge, the fish market, the Town Hall and the Ljubljana Castle area. Take the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle (~£4 return, or walk up free). Optional afternoon trip to Lake Bled by bus (~1 hr) if you want to double up — but Bled is covered in Day 21.

🚌On foot / funicular (~£4)

🛏Hostel in Ljubljana

• →Free walking tour of Ljubljana
• →Ljubljana Castle (funicular or walk)
• →Central market

Train Ljubljana → Maribor (~2 hrs, ~£9). Walk the old town, the Lent riverside, the Old Vine House (the world's oldest vine) and the university square. Then a local bus Maribor → Ptuj (~45 min, ~£4) for the hilltop castle and the oldest town in Slovenia. Book a small wine-tasting at a Maribor or Ptuj cellar (~£15-20) instead of the group-included tasting. Return by train to Ljubljana in the evening (~2.5 hrs, ~£10).

🚌Train Ljubljana → Maribor (~£9) + bus to Ptuj (~£4) + return train (~£10)

🛏Hostel in Ljubljana

• →Maribor Lent riverside and Old Vine House
• →Ptuj castle and old town
• →Independent wine tasting (~£15-20)

Bus Ljubljana → Postojna (~1 hr, ~£7). Book the Postojna Cave tour online in advance (~£25-30) — it's timed and guided by the cave operator, so no group needed. Then the local shuttle (~£6) to Predjama Castle, a 10-minute walk from the road, entry ~£15 (combined cave + castle ticket is cheaper). Afternoon bus Postojna → Koper/Piran (~2 hrs, ~£10). Check into a guesthouse in Piran.

🚌Bus Ljubljana → Postojna (~£7) + shuttle to Predjama (~£6) + bus to coast (~£10)

🛏Guesthouse or hostel in Piran (~£22-30/night)

• →Postojna Cave guided tour (self-booked)
• →Predjama Castle
• →Transfer to the coast

Full day on the Slovenian coast. Piran is tiny and walkable: Tartini Square, the Venetian-style old town, the city walls viewpoint and a swim off the rocks near the lighthouse. Afternoon bus to Koper (~40 min, ~£3) for the Praetorian Palace and Tito Square, then back. Lunch on a seafood plate and a glass of local Malvazija (~£12).

🚌Local coast buses (~£5)

🛏Guesthouse in Piran

• →Piran old town and city walls
• →Swim and sunset at the lighthouse
• →Koper Praetorian Palace and Tito Square

Bus Piran/Koper → Ljubljana and transfer onward to Kobarid or Bovec (~4-5 hrs total, ~£15-18), or take the coastal route via Nova Gorica if you want a shorter segment. Visit Lipica Stud Farm en route if you leave early (entry ~£15, optional — skip if you want to save money). In the afternoon walk the Soča Valley emerald river paths, the Kobarid WWI museum and the Italian Charnel House hike (~1 hr return). Stay in a valley guesthouse or hostel.

🚌Bus Piran → Ljubljana → Kobarid/Bovec (~£17, 4-5 hrs)

🛏Valley guesthouse or hostel in Kobarid/Bovec (~£22-30/night)

• →Optional Lipica Stud Farm
• →Soča Valley river walks
• →Kobarid WWI Museum and Charnel House hike

Morning bus Kobarid/Bovec → Bled (~2 hrs via Kranjska Gora or Jesenice, ~£10-12). Bled is your classic: walk the lakeshore, take a pletna boat to the island church (~£15) or row yourself (~£10/hr), and walk up to Bled Castle (~£13) or hike to the Ojstrica viewpoint for free. Optional bus to Lake Bohinj and the Vogel cable car (~£15-20) if you have time. Final dinner in Bled — kremšnita is mandatory.

🚌Bus Kobarid/Bovec → Bled (~£11)

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Bled (~£22-30/night)

• →Lake Bled lakeside walk
• →Pletna boat to Bled Island (~£15)
• →Bled Castle or Ojstrica viewpoint
• →Optional Vogel cable car

Bus or train Bled → Ljubljana (~1 hr, ~£6) and then train or FlixBus Ljubljana → Zagreb (~2.5 hrs, ~£10) to connect with your flight from Zagreb Airport, or fly out of Ljubljana if you've booked a one-way return. Build in 3 hours' buffer before your flight. Alternatively, add a night in Bled if you don't want a same-day international connection.

🚌Bus Bled → Ljubljana (~£6) + train/bus Ljubljana → Zagreb (~£10) + airport bus (~£5)

🛏None (departure day)

• →Transfer Bled → Ljubljana → Zagreb
• →Airport connection to ZAG