Self-Launched South Caucasus: Baku to Yerevan (Azerbaijan, Georgia & Armenia)

Fly into Heydar Aliyev International Airport and take the official Aero Express bus (about 1.3 AZN / £0.60, 30 mins) or a Bolt/Yango ride (~10-15 AZN) to the centre. Check into a hostel or budget guesthouse in Icheri Sheher or near Fountain Square. Apply for your Azerbaijan e-visa online (£20-ish, allow a week) well before travel. In the evening, instead of the tour's welcome dinner, grab a cheap qutab and tea at a local cafe — try the pocket-friendly spots around Nizami Street — and wander the illuminated Old City walls.

🚌Airport Aero Express bus ~£0.60; walking

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in central Baku (£12-18/night)

• →Aero Express airport bus to city centre
• →Evening stroll around Icheri Sheher and Fountain Square
• →Cheap qutab dinner near Nizami Street

Do the tour's Baku sightseeing on foot for free. Start at Martyrs' Lane (Shehidler Khiyabany) for Caspian views, then walk downhill into Icheri Sheher (Old City): Maiden Tower (25 AZN to climb — optional), Shirvanshah's Palace (10 AZN), the Caravanserai courtyard, and the market square. Continue out to Nizami Street and Fountain Square for people-watching. Free walking tours run daily from Fountain Square and are tip-based if you want the history — a good stand-in for the group guide.

🚌Walking; occasional metro rides ~£0.30

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in central Baku (£12-18/night)

• →Martyrs' Lane viewpoint
• →Old City self-guided walk: Maiden Tower, Shirvanshah's Palace, Caravanserai
• →Free tip-based walking tour from Fountain Square (optional)
• →Nizami Street and Fountain Square evening wander

Gobustan is hard to reach independently — the mud volcanoes need a rough 4WD track. Book a half-day small-group tour via GetYourGuide or Klook (£25-35, includes entry fees and pickup) — this is the cheapest practical substitute for the tour's included excursion. You'll see the Petroglyphs Museum, 10,000-year-old rock carvings, and the bubbling mud volcanoes. Back in Baku by mid-afternoon; use the rest of the day for laundry, a hammam, or a cheap dinner in the Old City.

🚌Tour pickup included (~£30 for the half-day)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in central Baku (£12-18/night)

• →Gobustan half-day small-group tour (GetYourGuide/Klook)
• →Petroglyphs Museum and rock carvings
• →Mud volcanoes in Gobustan Reserve

Take a morning bus from Baku International Bus Terminal to Sheki (roughly 8-9 hours with breaks, 15-20 AZN / £7-9) — book at the terminal or via the Biletim app the day before. If you want to break it up, stop in Shamakhi: a marshrutka from Baku to Shamakhi (~2 hrs, 5 AZN) lets you see the Juma Mosque and the Diri Baba Mausoleum (marshrutka or taxi from Shamakhi, ~10 AZN round trip), then continue to Sheki. Stay in a family guesthouse in Sheki's old quarter; most hosts will feed you a big home-cooked dinner for a few manat.

🚌Baku–Sheki coach ~£9; local marshrutkas/taxi ~£5

🛏Family guesthouse in Sheki (£12-16/night incl. breakfast)

• →Bus Baku to Sheki
• →Optional stop at Shamakhi Juma Mosque
• →Optional Diri Baba Mausoleum detour
• →Evening in Sheki old quarter

Spend the morning on Sheki's highlights: the Sheki Khans' Palace (entry ~10 AZN, stunning stained-glass shebeke windows), the medieval fortress walls, and the local bazaar for halva and fresh produce. Then take a marshrutka or shared taxi to the Azerbaijan–Georgia border at Lagodekhi (about 1.5-2 hrs, 5-10 AZN) — cross on foot, easy and quick for most nationalities. On the Georgian side, check into a guesthouse in Lagodekhi village. For the equivalent of the tour's family lunch with homemade wine, book a guesthouse that does dinner — most Lagodekhi hosts pour their own wine — or ask about a wine-tasting lunch at a local family winery (~£10-12).

🚌Sheki to Lagodekhi border ~£7; border crossing on foot

🛏Guesthouse in Lagodekhi, Georgia (£12-18/night incl. breakfast)

• →Sheki Khans' Palace
• →Sheki fortress and local bazaar
• →Marshrutka/shared taxi to Lagodekhi border crossing
• →Family guesthouse dinner with homemade wine

Hike to Ninoskhevi waterfall in Lagodekhi Protected Areas — buy your park permit at the visitor centre near the entrance (a few lari), then follow the marked trail up through beech forest to the waterfall and back (3-4 hrs round trip). In the afternoon, take a marshrutka to Tbilisi via Gurjaani or directly if one runs (2.5-3 hrs, ~8 GEL / £2.40); if time allows, hop off at Sighnaghi (Royal Town) for an hour of wall-walking and Kakheti valley views before continuing. Arrive in Tbilisi and check into a hostel in Old Town or Sololaki.

🚌Marshrutka/Bus Lagodekhi–Tbilisi ~£3

🛏Hostel in Tbilisi Old Town or Sololaki (£10-16/night)

• →Ninoskhevi waterfall hike with park permit
• →Optional stop in Sighnaghi Royal Town
• →Marshrutka to Tbilisi

Do the Tbilisi city tour on foot and by cable car. Start at Metekhi Church and the Vakhtang Gorgasali monument, take the Rike Park cable car up to Narikala Fortress (2.5 GEL with a Metromoney card, ~£0.70), walk down through the National Botanical Garden (entry ~4 GEL), pass the sulphur bath houses in Abanotubani, then wander Shardeni Street, Sioni Cathedral, Anchiskhati Basilica, and the Rezo Gabriadze puppet theatre clock tower. Cross the Bridge of Peace to Rike Park. In the evening, swap the tour dinner for a khinkali-and-wine dinner at a local spot like a cheap basement taverna in Old Town (~£10). A tip-based free walking tour (10am daily, Old Town) is a great free stand-in for the guide.

🚌Walking; metro 1 GEL per ride (~£0.30)

🛏Hostel in Tbilisi Old Town or Sololaki (£10-16/night)

• →Metekhi Church and Narikala cable car
• →National Botanical Garden walk
• →Sulphur bath district and Shardeni Street
• →Free walking tour (tip-based)
• →Khinkali and Georgian wine dinner

The Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi is best done by shared minivan: marshrutkas leave from Didube bus station in Tbilisi several times each morning (10-15 GEL / £3-4.50, 3 hrs). Ask the driver to stop at the Ananuri fortress complex on Jinvali Reservoir — most will for a few minutes. For the rafting, pre-book an Aragvi rafting session via GetYourGuide or directly with an operator in Pasanauri (~£25-30, includes gear and a riverside lunch); you can ask the marshrutka to drop you in Pasanauri and then catch another marshrutka or a shared taxi onward to Kazbegi afterwards. Spend the night in Stepantsminda with Mount Kazbek views from your guesthouse.

🚌Marshrutka Tbilisi–Kazbegi ~£4; local hops ~£3

🛏Guesthouse in Stepantsminda/Kazbegi (£12-18/night incl. breakfast)

• →Marshrutka along the Georgian Military Highway
• →Ananuri fortress and Jinvali Reservoir stop
• →White-water rafting on the Aragvi (pre-booked)
• →Riverside lunch

Hike up to Gergeti Holy Trinity Church from town — a steady 1.5-2 hr climb (free, no guide needed, well-marked). Take the cheap shared 4WD shuttle partway if you want to save your legs (~10 GEL), but walking is the better experience. In the afternoon, take a local taxi or shared ride to the Gveleti Waterfalls trailhead (10-15 mins) and do the short 30-45 min walk to the falls. Back in town for a home-cooked dinner at your guesthouse.

🚌Taxi to Gveleti trailhead ~£8 return (shareable)

🛏Guesthouse in Stepantsminda/Kazbegi (£12-18/night incl. breakfast)

• →Hike to Gergeti Holy Trinity Church
• →Gveleti Waterfalls short hike
• →Mount Kazbek viewpoints

This is the most awkward transport day — take a marshrutka from Kazbegi back to Tbilisi (3 hrs, ~£4), then a marshrutka or shared taxi from Tbilisi's Didube station to Gori (1.5 hrs, ~£2.50), and a short taxi/marshrutka to Uplistsikhe cave town (entry ~5 GEL) for a couple of hours exploring the rock-cut streets. Then continue from Gori to Borjomi by marshrutka (1.5-2 hrs, ~£3). It's a long day — an alternative is to hire a private driver for the leg (roughly £60-70 per car split between 2-3 travellers). Arrive in Borjomi and take an evening stroll in Borjomi Central Park (small entry fee) around the mineral springs.

🚌Marshrutkas Kazbegi–Tbilisi–Gori–Borjomi ~£10; Uplistsikhe taxi ~£3

🛏Guesthouse in Borjomi (£12-16/night)

• →Uplistsikhe cave town
• →Marshrutka connections via Tbilisi/Gori
• →Borjomi Central Park evening walk

The national park's trailheads need transport, so pre-arrange a shared taxi or a day driver from Borjomi to the Likani or Nikoloz Romanov trailhead (~£15-20 return, split if possible). Permits are cheap and can be booked at the park visitor centre in Borjomi; pick a marked day route (the Nikoloz Romanov Trail is a good half-day option). Pack your own picnic — bread, cheese, tomatoes and churchkhela from the Borjomi market — as an easy substitute for the tour's catered picnic. Back in town by late afternoon.

🚌Shared taxi to trailhead ~£18 return (split)

🛏Guesthouse in Borjomi (£12-16/night)

• →Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park day hike
• →Park visitor centre permit
• →Self-made picnic on the trail

Take a marshrutka from Borjomi to Tbilisi (2.5-3 hrs, ~£3). En route, or as a day trip, stop at Mtskheta: a marshrutka from Tbilisi's Didube station takes 30 mins (~1 GEL). Visit the UNESCO-listed Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Church (a short taxi or 45-min walk uphill; most drivers will do a small loop for a few lari). Then head back into Tbilisi and settle into your hostel.

🚌Marshrutkas ~£4 total; Mtskheta taxi ~£3

🛏Hostel in Tbilisi (£10-16/night)

• →Marshrutka Borjomi–Tbilisi
• →Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta
• →Jvari Church viewpoint

A proper free day to pick and choose. Top picks on a budget: the Dry Bridge flea market (free), the Georgian National Museum archaeological treasury (~10 GEL), the funicular up to Mtatsminda Mountain (a few lari, with city panoramas), wandering the crumbling courtyards of Sololaki, Dezertirebi Bazaar for cheese and spices, and David Agmashenebeli Avenue. If you're splashing out, book a private room at a sulphur bath house (~£25-35 for a small private room) or a ticket to the opera at the State Opera House if something's on (from ~£10).

🚌Walking; metro ~£0.60 all day

🛏Hostel in Tbilisi (£10-16/night)

• →Dry Bridge flea market
• →Georgian National Museum
• →Mtatsminda funicular
• →Sololaki neighbourhood wander
• →Optional sulphur bath or opera ticket

Getting from Tbilisi to Yerevan independently is straightforward: a marshrutka leaves from Ortachala bus station in the morning (6-8 hrs, 30-40 GEL / £9-12) and stops at the Sadakhlo–Bagratashen border. To include Haghpat Monastery (UNESCO) and Lake Sevan, the practical option is a shared taxi or pre-booked transfer via GetYourGuide, or a private driver from Tbilisi (roughly £100-120 per car, split between 2-4 people — maybe £30-40 each) doing Tbilisi → Haghpat → Sevanavank → Yerevan in a day. If you take the direct marshrutka, it's a cheaper but unremarkable ride; a shared taxi splurge is well worth it on this day. Overnight in a Yerevan hostel or guesthouse.

🚌Shared taxi/transfer with stops ~£30-40 per person (split); or direct marshrutka ~£11

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in central Yerevan (£10-16/night)

• →Haghpat Monastery (UNESCO)
• →Sevanavank Monastery at Lake Sevan
• →Border crossing at Bagratashen
• →Transfer to Yerevan

Take a minibus or marshrutka from Yerevan to Garni (about 30-40 mins, ~£1), visit the Hellenistic Garni Temple (entry ~1,500 AMD / £3). From Garni, hike the marked trail up to Havuts Tar — a ruined medieval monastery on the hillside above the Azat River gorge with superb views (2-3 hrs round trip, free, no guide required; you don't need an instructor for this, just decent shoes and water). Optionally detour downhill to the Symphony of Stones basalt columns. Head back to Yerevan in the afternoon.

🚌Minibus/marshrutka Yerevan–Garni ~£2 return

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in central Yerevan (£10-16/night)

• →Garni Temple
• →Hike to Havuts Tar monastery ruins
• →Optional Symphony of Stones basalt formation

Walk the Cascade complex (free, and the exterior terraces are always open), Abovyan Avenue, the Opera House and Swan Lake, and Republic Square. Take a local bus or taxi to the Armenian Genocide Memorial and Museum at Tsitsernakaberd (free entry, closed Mondays). For the farewell dinner, book a table at a traditional restaurant with live duduk music rather than a tourist folklore show — a solid dinner with wine runs £12-18. If you want the performance, the Yerevan State Song and Dance Ensemble and dinner-show venues like the Dvin restaurant offer folklore nights for £20-30.

🚌Walking; taxi ~£2

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in central Yerevan (£10-16/night)

• →Cascade complex and terraces
• →Republic Square and Abovyan Avenue walk
• →Armenian Genocide Memorial and Museum (free)
• →Farewell dinner with live traditional music

Check out and head to Zvartnots International Airport by the No. 201 airport bus from Yerevan centre (~300 AMD / £0.60, 30 mins) or a taxi/ride-hail (~£5). If your flight is late, drop your bags at the hostel and spend the morning in the Vernissage market or at a cafe on Saryan Street before flying out.

🚌Airport bus ~£0.60 or taxi ~£5

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Airport bus to Zvartnots
• →Optional Vernissage market or Saryan Street cafe stop