The Ultimate Self-Launched Adventure in Albania

Fly into Tirana International Airport (TIA). From the airport, take the Rinas Express shuttle bus into central Tirana (~£3, runs every hour, ~30 mins). From Tirana's Kombinat bus terminal, catch a shared furgon (minibus) to Berat — departures are frequent throughout the day and cost around £3–4, taking roughly 2 hours. Check into a guesthouse in the historic Mangalem district. In the evening, stroll around Berat Castle, wander through the Ottoman-era Mangalem and Gorica districts, and grab a traditional Albanian dinner at one of the atmospheric restaurants in the old town. Tavë kosi (baked lamb with yoghurt) is a must-try.

🚌Rinas Express shuttle to Tirana (~£3), then furgon Tirana→Berat (~£3–4)

🛏Guesthouse or small hotel in Berat's historic Mangalem district — e.g. Hotel Mangalemi or Guesthouse Mangalem (twin/dorm ~£18–25pp)

• →Rinas Express shuttle from airport to Tirana centre (~£3)
• →Furgon (shared minibus) from Tirana to Berat (~£3–4, ~2 hrs)
• →Self-guided walk around Berat Castle and UNESCO old town (free)
• →Wander the Mangalem and Gorica districts
• →Traditional Albanian dinner in the old town (~£8–12)

Hire e-bikes in Berat for the day (~£20–25pp) and pedal out to the village of Roshnik at the foot of Mount Tomorr, through vineyards, olive groves and fig orchards. Lock up your bikes in the village and hike the short trail up to Bogdan for panoramic views (~2 hrs, 4 miles). Head to Alpeta Winery for a farm-to-table lunch with a wine tasting session featuring indigenous Albanian grape varieties — book directly via their website or visit on the day (~£15–20 including lunch and tasting). In the afternoon, cycle or furgon back to Berat and spend the evening exploring the old town's cafés and bars at your own pace. Dinner is on you tonight — try one of the lively spots near the main square.

🚌E-bike self-hire (~£20–25pp for the day); furgon back if needed (~£2)

🛏Same guesthouse in Berat (night 2)

• →E-bike hire in Berat for the day (~£20–25pp)
• →Self-guided cycle to Roshnik through vineyards and olive groves (~1 hr, 9 miles)
• →Hike to Bogdan village for panoramic views (~2 hrs, 4 miles)
• →Wine tasting and farm-to-table lunch at Alpeta Winery (~£15–20pp)
• →Free time exploring Berat old town cafés and bars

After breakfast, take a furgon from Berat toward Vlorë (~£3, ~1.5 hrs), then another furgon or shared taxi up the winding mountain road to Llogara Pass (~£4–6). Llogara National Park is free to enter — pick up one of the waymarked trails through alpine pine forests and rolling meadows, with jaw-dropping views over the Ionian Sea, the Qorre and Cika peaks, and the Gulf of Vlorë (~9 miles, 5–6 hrs). Carry packed snacks from a bakery in Vlorë. Overnight in one of the rustic mountain lodges or guesthouses near the Llogara Pass — Te Dreri or similar lodges can be booked directly and offer pool, sauna, and Turkish bath facilities. A magical spot.

🚌Furgon Berat→Vlorë (~£3), furgon/shared taxi Vlorë→Llogara (~£5)

🛏Mountain lodge or guesthouse near Llogara Pass — e.g. Te Dreri or Llogara Hotel (twin ~£25–35pp, book direct)

• →Furgon Berat → Vlorë (~£3, ~1.5 hrs)
• →Shared taxi or furgon Vlorë → Llogara Pass (~£4–6)
• →Self-guided hike through Llogara National Park (free entry, ~9 miles, 5–6 hrs)
• →Views over the Ionian Sea, Gulf of Vlorë and Cika peaks
• →Optional: pool, sauna or Turkish bath at mountain lodge (ask at accommodation, ~£5–10)

After breakfast at your mountain lodge, hike or take a short shared taxi down the coastal road to the village of Kudhes. Follow the ancient mule paths through olive groves and stone terraces up to the hilltop village of Upper Qeparo (~3 hrs, 5 miles) — no guide needed, the paths are well-trodden. Explore the narrow stone streets of this remarkably preserved Ottoman village. Grab a traditional lunch of fresh fish and local mezes at a family-run taverna in lower Qeparo (~£8–12). Then walk down to the coast and check in to a guesthouse or small hotel right by the beach for 2 nights. Spend the afternoon swimming in the crystal-clear Ionian waters or hire a stand-up paddleboard from the beach (~£10/hr).

🚌Shared taxi Llogara→Kudhes (~£5); walk down to coast

🛏Guesthouse or small hotel on the Qeparo waterfront or nearby (twin ~£20–30pp, book via Booking.com or direct)

• →Shared taxi from Llogara to Kudhes (~£4–6)
• →Self-guided hike Kudhes → Upper Qeparo through olive groves (~3 hrs, 5 miles)
• →Explore the stone streets of Upper Qeparo village (free)
• →Traditional fish lunch at a local taverna (~£8–12)
• →Afternoon swimming in the Ionian Sea (free)
• →Optional: stand-up paddleboard hire (~£10/hr)

Book a sea kayaking trip to Porto Palermo Castle through GetYourGuide or directly with a local operator in Qeparo or Himarë (~£30–40pp including equipment and a guide). Paddle along the dramatic coastline, through impossibly turquoise waters and past sheer limestone cliffs, arriving at the 19th-century Ottoman castle of Ali Pasha Tepelena — a stunning blend of Venetian and Ottoman architecture surrounded by lush greenery. After exploring the castle, stop for lunch at a local restaurant near Porto Palermo (~£8–12). Return to Qeparo for a free afternoon — laze on the beach, take a dip, or book an optional boat trip to hidden coves (~£15–20pp, easily arranged locally on the day).

🚌Kayak transfer included in activity; local transport as needed (~£3–5)

🛏Same guesthouse in Qeparo (night 2)

• →Guided sea kayak trip to Porto Palermo Castle — book via GetYourGuide or local operator (~£30–40pp incl. gear)
• →Explore Porto Palermo Castle (entry ~£2)
• →Lunch at a local restaurant near Porto Palermo (~£8–12)
• →Free afternoon on Qeparo beach
• →Optional: boat trip to hidden Riviera coves (~£15–20pp, arrange locally)

An early start today — take a shared furgon or arrange a shared taxi north toward Permet (~£8–12, ~2.5 hrs). Ask your accommodation to help arrange a car share with other travellers, which is common on this route. Stop at Nivica Canyon — Albania's 'Grand Canyon' — for a short hike along the canyon rim to the multi-tiered Peshtures Waterfall (~1 hr, 2 miles). The canyon is free to visit and utterly spectacular. Grab a traditional lunch in the nearby village of Peshtan — byrek, slow-cooked lamb, and local cheese (~£6–10). In the afternoon, book a guided kayak trip through Kelcyre Gorge on the Vjosa River (~£25–35pp including gear, book via GetYourGuide or directly with a Permet-based operator). Tonight, camp or glamp by the Vjosa riverbank — several eco-camping spots exist along the river, or book a riverside glamping site near Permet (~£15–25pp).

🚌Furgon/shared taxi Qeparo→Permet area (~£10)

🛏Riverside glamping or eco-camp near Permet/Vjosa River (twin tent ~£15–25pp)

• →Furgon/shared taxi Qeparo→Permet area (~£8–12, ~2.5 hrs)
• →Self-guided hike at Nivica Canyon to Peshtures Waterfall (free, ~1 hr)
• →Traditional lunch in Peshtan village (~£6–10)
• →Guided kayak trip through Kelcyre Gorge on the Vjosa River (~£25–35pp incl. gear)
• →Visit the 'Uji i Zi' underground spring (free)
• →Glamping or eco-camping by the Vjosa River (~£15–25pp)

Hire e-bikes in Permet for the day (~£20–25pp) — several rental shops exist in town. Cycle through the rolling Vjosa valley, past centuries-old stone bridges and traditional villages, following the river to the renowned Benja thermal springs beneath the historic Ottoman-era Kati Bridge (~22 miles round trip). Soak in the warm, mineral-rich natural pools for as long as you like (free entry). Cycle back to Permet and book a cooking class with a local family — several families in Permet offer hands-on experiences making byrek, tave kosi and other Albanian classics, bookable via local guesthouses, Airbnb Experiences, or GetYourGuide (~£20–30pp including the meal). A genuinely wonderful way to connect with Albanian food culture.

🚌E-bike self-hire (~£20–25pp)

🛏Same riverside glamping/eco-camp near Permet (night 2) or upgrade to a guesthouse in Permet (~£18–25pp)

• →E-bike hire in Permet for the day (~£20–25pp)
• →Cycle to Benja thermal springs via the Vjosa valley (~22 miles)
• →Soak in Benja's natural thermal springs beneath the Ottoman Kati Bridge (free)
• →Return cycle to Permet
• →Albanian cooking class with a local family — byrek and tave kosi (~£20–30pp incl. meal, book via Airbnb Experiences or GetYourGuide)

Start your final adventure day with a guided white-water rafting trip down the Vjosa — Europe's last truly free-flowing river — through dramatic canyons and Class 2–3 rapids. Book via GetYourGuide or directly with a Permet-based rafting operator (~£30–40pp including all gear). After the adrenaline rush, grab lunch in Permet (~£6–10) before hopping on a furgon or bus north to Tirana (~£6–8, ~3 hrs). Arrive in Tirana with time to explore the colourful city centre — Skanderbeg Square, the Et'hem Bey Mosque, Blloku district cafés, and the vibrant street art. Toast the end of an incredible adventure with fellow travellers at one of Tirana's buzzing bars or restaurants for an informal farewell dinner.

🚌Furgon/bus Permet→Tirana (~£7)

🛏Budget hotel or hostel in central Tirana — e.g. Tirana Backpacker Hostel or Trip Inn Tirana (dorm ~£12–15pp, twin ~£20–28pp)

• →Guided white-water rafting on the Vjosa River — Class 2–3 rapids (~£30–40pp incl. gear, book via GetYourGuide or local operator)
• →Lunch in Permet (~£6–10)
• →Furgon/bus Permet→Tirana (~£6–8, ~3 hrs)
• →Self-guided exploration of Tirana: Skanderbeg Square, Blloku district, street art (free)
• →Optional farewell dinner in Tirana (~£12–18)

Enjoy a final Albanian breakfast at a local bakery — fresh byrek and strong coffee for around £3. Spend any remaining time exploring Tirana's colourful bazaars, the National History Museum, or the relaxing Grand Park. To reach the airport, take the Rinas Express shuttle bus from central Tirana (~£3, runs every hour from 06:00, ~30 mins to airport). Allow plenty of time for your flight home — and start planning the next adventure.

🚌Rinas Express shuttle to airport (~£3)

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Final breakfast at a local Tirana bakery (~£3)
• →Optional: visit National History Museum (~£2) or stroll Grand Park (free)
• →Rinas Express shuttle bus to Tirana Airport (~£3, ~30 mins)