Highlights of Albania: Self-Launched Edition

Fly into Tirana Nënë Tereza International Airport (TIA). Catch the Rinas Express bus into the city centre (~£3, 40 min) or a shared taxi (~£10). Check in to your hostel or budget hotel in the Blloku neighbourhood — the social heart of modern Tirana. In the late afternoon, stroll through the recently renovated New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri), browse stalls selling local produce, spices and street food, and soak up the buzz. Head out for dinner independently — try byrek (savoury pastry) or tavë kosi (baked lamb with yoghurt) at a local restaurant for well under £8.

🚌Rinas Express airport bus (~£3) or shared taxi (~£10)

🛏Freddy's Hostel or Trip Inn Tirana (or similar budget hotel/hostel in Blloku, ~£15–20/night)

• →Arrive at Tirana airport — take the Rinas Express bus to the city centre (~£3)
• →Check in and explore the Blloku neighbourhood
• →Self-guided evening stroll through the New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri)
• →Dinner at a local restaurant — try tavë kosi or byrek (~£6–8)

Start with a self-guided walking tour of Tirana: the Pyramid of Tirana, Skanderbeg Square, the Et'hem Bey Mosque and the PM's office are all within easy walking distance. Then visit Bunk'Art 2 (entrance ~£3), a fascinating Cold War history museum inside a genuine Communist-era nuclear bunker near the city centre — Bunk'Art 1 is a larger bunker on the outskirts, also worth a visit if time allows. Afterwards, head to the main bus terminal and catch a furgon (shared minibus) towards Pogradec via Elbasan (~£4, 2.5 hrs total). Ask the driver to drop you briefly at Elbasan's 15th-century fortress for a quick look before reboarding. Stop in the village of Lin for a coffee with lake views. Arrive in Pogradec on the shores of Lake Ohrid by early evening.

🚌Furgon Tirana → Pogradec via Elbasan (~£4)

🛏Hotel Pogradeci or Hotel Perla (or similar lakeside budget hotel, ~£20–25/night)

• →Self-guided walking tour of Tirana: Pyramid, Skanderbeg Square, Et'hem Bey Mosque (~free)
• →Visit Bunk'Art 2 Cold War bunker museum (~£3 entry)
• →Furgon (shared minibus) from Tirana to Pogradec via Elbasan (~£4, ~2.5 hrs)
• →Short stop at Elbasan Fortress en route (free, from outside)
• →Coffee stop in the lakeside village of Lin (~£1)

After breakfast, hire a local taxi for a half-day excursion to Voskopojë (~£15–20 for the car, shareable between travellers you meet). The village was once a major centre of Albanian icon painting and religious art. Take the 40-minute walking circuit to visit the Church of Saint Athanasios, one of the oldest in the region, to see remarkable surviving frescoes. Afterwards, continue by taxi or furgon the 30 minutes to Korçë — the City of Museums. Spend the afternoon exploring the National Museum of Medieval Art (entry ~£3), the old bazaar and the grand central boulevard. Don't leave without trying the famously good local Korça beer.

🚌Shared taxi Pogradec–Voskopojë (~£15–20 car), furgon Voskopojë–Korçë (~£3–5)

🛏Hotel Christi Borova or Hotel Kocibelli (or similar central guesthouse, ~£20–25/night)

• →Shared taxi from Pogradec to Voskopojë (~£15–20 for the car)
• →40-minute walk to the Church of Saint Athanasios and icon-painted churches (free/donation)
• →Taxi or furgon from Voskopojë to Korçë (~30 min, ~£3–5)
• →Visit the National Museum of Medieval Art (~£3 entry)
• →Evening wander through Korçë's old bazaar and a local Korça beer (~£1)

This is a spectacular day of mountain scenery across the Gramos and Nemercka ranges. Take a morning furgon from Korçë to Ersekë (~£3, ~1 hr), Albania's highest town at 1,050m, surrounded by beautiful green pastures. Grab a coffee and take in the views before boarding another furgon to Përmet (~£3, ~1.5 hrs). En route or just outside Përmet, stop at the Bënjë thermal hot springs — a beautiful natural swimming spot in a river gorge, free to enter — for a relaxing soak. Arrive in Përmet in the afternoon. This evening, make the most of Albania's gastronomic capital: try gliko fruit preserves, local raki and fresh lamb dishes. Përmet's restaurants are excellent value.

🚌Furgon Korçë–Ersekë–Përmet (~£6 total)

🛏Hotel Alvero or similar guesthouse in Përmet (~£18–22/night)

• →Morning furgon from Korçë to Ersekë (~£3, ~1 hr)
• →Coffee stop and short wander in Ersekë, Albania's highest town (~free)
• →Furgon from Ersekë to Përmet (~£3, ~1.5 hrs)
• →Stop at Bënjë thermal hot springs for a swim in the river gorge (free entry)
• →Evening dinner sampling Përmet's local specialities — gliko, raki, local lamb (~£8–10)

Head south towards Gjirokastër (~2 hrs by furgon or local bus, ~£3). If you can arrange it via your guesthouse or the local tourist information, ask about a homestay lunch stop in the village of Dhoksat — a family homecooked lunch using their own produce is a genuinely memorable experience (~£8–10 per person, bookable locally). Alternatively, pick up lunch in a local café en route. Arrive in Gjirokastër — a UNESCO World Heritage city of extraordinary Ottoman-era stone houses, medieval towers and cobbled lanes. Spend the afternoon exploring independently: the vast Gjirokastër Castle (entry ~£2) offers panoramic views and houses a weapons museum. Visit Skenduli House, a beautifully preserved Ottoman mansion (entry ~£2). Wander the atmospheric bazaar quarter.

🚌Furgon Përmet–Gjirokastër (~£3)

🛏Argjiro Hotel or Hotel Kalemi (or similar guesthouse in the old town, ~£20–28/night)

• →Morning furgon from Përmet to Gjirokastër (~£3, ~2 hrs)
• →Arranged or spontaneous homecooked lunch stop in Dhoksat village (~£8–10 per person)
• →Self-guided visit to Gjirokastër Castle (~£2 entry, panoramic views)
• →Visit Skenduli House Ottoman mansion (~£2 entry)
• →Evening wander through the UNESCO old bazaar quarter (~free)

Take an early furgon or local bus towards Sarandë (~£3, ~1.5 hrs), then a local bus or shared taxi the short distance south to Butrint (~£3). Butrint National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site of extraordinary layered history: a Greek sanctuary, Roman city, Byzantine basilica and Venetian castle — all in one compact site (entry ~£6). Allow 2–3 hours to explore. Return to Sarandë and catch a bus northward along the stunning Albanian Riviera coastline towards Himarë and then on to the Llogara Pass (~£5, 2 hrs). The coastal road is one of Europe's most scenic drives. Arrive at Llogara National Park (~1,000m altitude) by late afternoon.

🚌Furgon Gjirokastër–Sarandë (~£3), taxi to Butrint (~£3), bus Sarandë–Llogara (~£5)

🛏Llogara Tourist Village Hotel or a local guesthouse near the pass (~£22–28/night)

• →Furgon Gjirokastër to Sarandë (~£3, ~1.5 hrs)
• →Local bus or shared taxi to Butrint National Park (~£3 return)
• →Self-guided visit to UNESCO Butrint ruins: Greek theatre, Roman baths, Byzantine basilica (~£6 entry)
• →Bus north along the Albanian Riviera coast to Himarë and Llogara (~£5, ~2 hrs scenic route)
• →Arrive at Llogara National Park — short evening walk to enjoy mountain views (free)

Rise early for the hike along Caesar's Path in Llogara National Park — a 4km round-trip trail through pine forest where Julius Caesar is said to have marched in 48 BCE. The trail is well-marked and free to walk; there may be opportunities to descend to the Ionian Sea for a swim if conditions allow. Afterwards, catch a bus or shared taxi north towards Fier (~£4, ~2 hrs), then a short local taxi or bus to the ruins of Apollonia (~£2 each way). This ancient Greek and Roman city (entry ~£3) boasts impressive colonnaded walkways, a theatre and the monastery of St Mary. Allow 1.5–2 hours. Continue by bus or taxi inland to UNESCO Berat (~1 hr, ~£4), arriving by early evening.

🚌Bus/taxi Llogara–Fier–Apollonia–Berat (~£10–12 total)

🛏Hotel Onufri or Berati Castel Hotel (or similar guesthouse, ~£22–28/night)

• →Morning hike: Caesar's Path in Llogara NP, 4km round trip through pine forest (free)
• →Optional swim at the Ionian Sea if descending the trail (free)
• →Bus/shared taxi from Llogara towards Fier (~£4, ~2 hrs)
• →Short taxi to Apollonia ruins (~£2 each way), self-guided visit (~£3 entry, ~1.5–2 hrs)
• →Bus or taxi from Apollonia to Berat (~£4, ~1 hr)

Berat is one of Albania's greatest treasures and deserves a full day. Start with a morning self-guided tour of the old Mangalem quarter — white Ottoman houses stacked above one another on the hillside. Walk up through cobbled lanes to Berat Castle (entry ~£2), a living medieval citadel with inhabited houses, Byzantine churches and the excellent Onufri Museum of Iconography (entry included with castle ticket). The views over the Osum River gorge are breathtaking — this is where the 'Thousand Windows' of Berat's famous silhouette can best be appreciated. Descend and visit the House of Cac Dollani. The afternoon is yours to explore: cross the old stone bridge to the Gorica quarter, find a riverside café, or take a longer walk up Mount Tomorr for panoramic views. Dinner at a local restaurant in the old town.

🚌All on foot within Berat

🛏Hotel Onufri or Berati Castel Hotel (same as night 7, ~£22–28/night)

• →Self-guided morning walk through the Mangalem and Gorica quarters (free)
• →Visit Berat Castle and the Onufri Museum of Iconography (~£2 entry, stunning views)
• →Visit the House of Cac Dollani (small entry fee ~£1)
• →Afternoon free: cross the old stone bridge, riverside café, or hike to higher viewpoints (free)
• →Dinner in the old town (~£8–12)

After breakfast, take a bus from Berat to Durrës (~£3, ~2 hrs), Albania's second city and a major port with ancient Greek and Roman roots. The main attraction is the Durrës Amphitheatre — the largest in the Balkans — dating to the 2nd century CE and seating 15,000 (entry ~£2); don't miss the early Christian crypt with rare wall mosaics inside. Stroll the seafront promenade and grab lunch at a local restaurant. Afterwards, catch a furgon towards Tirana and ask to be dropped at Krujë (~£3, ~45 min). Walk up to the medieval citadel where national hero Skanderbeg held off the Ottomans for 25 years. Visit the Skanderbeg Museum (entry ~£2) and browse the old bazaar packed with traditional crafts and souvenirs — one of the best in Albania.

🚌Bus Berat–Durrës (~£3), furgon Durrës–Krujë (~£3)

🛏Hotel Panorama Krujë or similar (~£20–25/night)

• →Bus from Berat to Durrës (~£3, ~2 hrs)
• →Visit Durrës Amphitheatre — largest in the Balkans (~£2 entry), early Christian crypt with mosaics
• →Lunch on the Durrës seafront promenade (~£6–8)
• →Furgon from Durrës to Krujë (~£3, ~45 min)
• →Visit Krujë Castle and Skanderbeg Museum (~£2 entry), panoramic Adriatic views
• →Browse Krujë's medieval bazaar for handicrafts and souvenirs (free to browse)

After breakfast, enjoy a final morning in Krujë — perhaps another wander through the bazaar or a café with views to the Adriatic. When ready, catch a furgon from Krujë back to Tirana (~£3, ~45 min), where you can connect to the Rinas Express bus to the airport (~£3) or take a taxi (~£10–15). If your flight isn't until later, Tirana is only 30 minutes from the airport and the city centre has plenty of cafés and the National History Museum (~£3) to fill a few hours. Albania will leave you wondering why it took the world so long to discover it.

🚌Furgon Krujë–Tirana (~£3), Rinas Express to airport (~£3)

🛏None (departure day)

• →Final morning wander in Krujë — bazaar and castle views (free)
• →Furgon Krujë to Tirana (~£3, ~45 min)
• →Optional: visit Tirana National History Museum (~£3) if time allows before flight
• →Rinas Express bus or taxi to Tirana airport (~£3–10)